350iroc Posted July 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 PM me your mailing address and I'll send you a pair. We all seem to agree that the water on the filters should cause a rich or "choked" condition. That won't change no matter what carb you're running. But at least part of the issue is the stock slides sticking when they're wet. There seems to be some other runaway situation that's also related and that we also believe is related to the stock carbs. I'm still working on my jetting since I put in the 21cc domes and I've considered going to the #30 pilots. There's considerable overlap in the carb circuits so going richer or leaner on the needle will also affect the pilot and main jetting. For instance, if your mains are perfect and lets say 300's and you move the clips down a notch (richer) on stock needles, you'll be a size too rich on the mains (which I prefer anyway) so you'd have to drop the mains to 290's to keep your WOT jetting the same. I'll try and remember to update you but I wont get to touch my jetting for several days at least. What we need is a small camera we can mount inside the air filter with a small led flashlight and record the action. If we could figure this out there must be a way to shield the problem. My mind keeps going round and round with this as only some Banshees do this. In fact some of my friends that run no air lid don't have this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350iroc Posted July 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 Have you ever seen this Banshee Vid? You just have to love the Banshee when you see this...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 im runnin in michigan around high 70's and low 80's at anywhere from 900-1300 feet. My bike... FAST dune/play port stock stroke vf 2 reeds fmf fatties and powercore 2 silencers 2-1 foam filter (no air box) milled head .030 wiseco prolites .010 over stock carbs (tors removed) right now im runnin with 320 mains, 30 pilots at 2.5 turns out on the air screws, and needle on the middle clip. On 93 pump gas. i was at a 27.5 pilot but it was boggy and sluggish off idle....and the air screw was 1.0 turns out....if you backed it out to 2 it would pop out of the exhuast when held at 5k rpm. jumped last weekend to a 30 and ran it......eliminated a decent amount of the off idle sluggishness and now air screws are 2 out. tried the needle clip one down (4th from top) to see if richer would help it......it was really throaty and choppy sounding.....kinda like it would gargle just before it came on the pipe. and you had to really fight to get it up to the pipe. pulled it apart and changed it back to middle clip position and it really helped....no more gargle before the pipe and its easy to get to the pipe. hey muggzy.....do you know if there is a specific way to guarentee that your needle is set right? or is it just a "set it how you like it" kind of feel. i understand how to read plug chops.....bu they only tell you whehter your mains are good.....so how do you check the needles? may be a few weeks before i can make it back up to northern michigan to do some riding....damn weddings and plans get in the freaking way of riding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 What we need is a small camera we can mount inside the air filter with a small led flashlight and record the action. If we could figure this out there must be a way to shield the problem. My mind keeps going round and round with this as only some Banshees do this. In fact some of my friends that run no air lid don't have this problem. If your airbox is dry as I think you've said, I'm not so sure you would see anything. The water is misting and you'd also have to take your filter off or use some sore of really small camera or bore scope. Fixing these securely so they dont end up stuck in your carb throat would take some serious work. You might wanna lift the slides out of the bike that doesn't have this problem and compare them to the slides in your carb. Get pictures if your friend will let you do it. Also, get pictures of the guy's input set up compared to yours as well. I'd be really interested in seeing that stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 im runnin in michigan around high 70's and low 80's at anywhere from 900-1300 feet. My bike... FAST dune/play port stock stroke vf 2 reeds fmf fatties and powercore 2 silencers 2-1 foam filter (no air box) milled head .030 wiseco prolites .010 over stock carbs (tors removed) right now im runnin with 320 mains, 30 pilots at 2.5 turns out on the air screws, and needle on the middle clip. On 93 pump gas. i was at a 27.5 pilot but it was boggy and sluggish off idle....and the air screw was 1.0 turns out.... 2.5 turns out (lean) on the 30's suggests you ought to be able to run the 27.5's turned in some (richer) from 1.5 turns. if you backed it out to 2 it would pop out of the exhuast when held at 5k rpm. This would make the 27.5 even leaner! jumped last weekend to a 30 and ran it......eliminated a decent amount of the off idle sluggishness and now air screws are 2 out. tried the needle clip one down (4th from top) to see if richer would help it......it was really throaty and choppy sounding.....kinda like it would gargle just before it came on the pipe. and you had to really fight to get it up to the pipe. pulled it apart and changed it back to middle clip position and it really helped....no more gargle before the pipe and its easy to get to the pipe. Sounds like you're getting frustrated and changing too many things at once. First I gotta ask are the air bleed screws at 2 or 2.5? You might wanna try going back to the 27.5's (leaner) and drop your needle clips back to pos 4 from the top (richer). The overlap from the needles should richen your idle circuit and the 27.5's ought to work for you at about 1 - 1.5 Turns out. hey muggzy.....do you know if there is a specific way to guarentee that your needle is set right? or is it just a "set it how you like it" kind of feel. i understand how to read plug chops.....bu they only tell you whehter your mains are good.....so how do you check the needles? may be a few weeks before i can make it back up to northern michigan to do some riding....damn weddings and plans get in the freaking way of riding I've been told that if you use your throttle limit screw (up on the handle bars) to limit your throttle range to 1/2 throttle, and then you do a plug chop, your plugs should look like they would when you do the pug chop run at WOT (assuming you've got the needles right). I asked a friend who owns his own performance ATV shop about this and he didn't think so. I'm gonna test this out myself though, b/c my understanding is that reading the plugs is a measure of how clean/efficient your combustion is burning and so I would think that this half-throttle plug chop should work same as it does at WOT. Next Saturday is the next time the stars align and I'll be able to go out and spend a few hours playing with my jetting. Once really I'm close, and I should be already, I'm gonna try it and adjust based on what the plugs tell me. I'll let you know what happens. After all, the needle clips are the easiest of the three circuits to adjust anyway. IROC, sorry we kinda jacked this thread . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350iroc Posted July 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2011 If your airbox is dry as I think you've said, I'm not so sure you would see anything. The water is misting and you'd also have to take your filter off or use some sore of really small camera or bore scope. Fixing these securely so they dont end up stuck in your carb throat would take some serious work. You might wanna lift the slides out of the bike that doesn't have this problem and compare them to the slides in your carb. Get pictures if your friend will let you do it. Also, get pictures of the guy's input set up compared to yours as well. I'd be really interested in seeing that stuff. I don't have pictures but his slides are very clean looking as mine have that black carbon look to them. I have reed spacers on my quads input. He uses a modified pluming elbow as a snorkel. Both K&N but mine no outer wear and his has one. I'm going to try cleaning up these slides on a wheel and go from K&N to a foam filter to see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 I don't have pictures but his slides are very clean looking as mine have that black carbon look to them. I have reed spacers on my quads input. He uses a modified pluming elbow as a snorkel. Both K&N but mine no outer wear and his has one. I'm going to try cleaning up these slides on a wheel and go from K&N to a foam filter to see what happens. That plumbing elbow is probably the reason he doesn't suffer the problem. If its got the same width for it's entire length, I really wanna see some pics. The foam filter is also a good idea, some say it's better where water is concerned but I haven't tried it. I put an outerwears prefilter on my K&N too when i made all those other changes if I didn't mention it. I wouldn't "clean" that black off, it's supposed to be there and I believe it's teflon coating put on at the factory, his is all worn off. If you do feel you need to take it off, I wouldn't do it with a wheel. I'd find a more gentle way to do it - maybe by hand with some 000 steel wool? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedig Banshee Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Was their ever a fix for the sticking throttle ? I have that same issue on (2) banshees that I just put new cables and twist throttles on. I talked to motion pro R & D and they suggested that the carb breather port is partially plugged causing a vacum on the slide not allowing it to rest on the idle stop. I am going to check it out and also extend the breather lines, I might add some sort of filter also. I think small dust particals are getting into the slides via the vent port on the carb causing issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadbeat Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Have you ever seen this Banshee Vid? You just have to love the Banshee when you see this...! what a sweet climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350iroc Posted July 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 I'm back to this post after way to long. I have continued fighting the carburetors sticking when encountering water issue since my last post back in 2011. I wanted to provide an update to the changes I've made with positive results but unfortunately I haven't been able to eliminate the issue completely. As a reminder I was having this happen to me with my old motor and my new motor. Now here is what I've replaced since my 2011 post. New stater, new coil, new intake boots, new air box design, new carburetor caps and cable for the TORS eliminator kit, new exhaust bushings including o-ring seals and springs. I also and to add to the mystery have installed a different set of stock carbs that a buddy gave me. A set of carbs I've seen in action dozens of times on my buddies quad and he never ever not even once had this issue! I've since rebuilt them including a new choke assembly and replaced the cross-over fuel line tube. I'm also using the slides and needles that came with the replacement carbs. Now people, even with all those changes I still to this day fight with the big question of why is this happening! So my buddy sends me a link on Carb Icing: Carburetor Icing, or carb icing, is an icing condition which can affect any carburetor under certain atmospheric conditions. Carburetor icing occurs when there is humid air, and the temperature drop in the venturi causes the water vapor to freeze. The ice will form on the surfaces of the carburetor throat, further restricting it. This may increase the Venturi effect initially, but eventually restricts airflow, perhaps even causing a complete blockage of air to the carburetor. The engine begins to run more rich as ice formation increases. Without intervention (carb heat or leaning) this can only continue until the mixture is outside of the "chemically correct" range for combustion. Icing may also cause jamming of the mechanical parts of the carburetor, such as the throttle. Also here is a cool video of the icing in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBjZHl7HscA Any comments on this possible cause presented? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Have you checked the throttle assembly on the bars? I've tightened down extended levers pretty good. That will stop the throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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