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Stiff Clutch Lever


RC418

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I just installed my driveline performance slingshot lock up and R1 Clutch kit, the clutch kit is the dune/trail version which uses 20% stiffer springs than stock but the clutch lever is soooo hard to pull I don't think I could ride longer than 5 minutes without getting a cramp. Has anyone else ever used this kit? If so, how stiff was your clutch?

 

I have a MSR EZ Pull Lever and it is still pretty hard to pull, Previously I was running 3 stock springs & 3 stiff barnett springs and it was not even half as hard to pull.

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I just installed my driveline performance slingshot lock up and R1 Clutch kit, the clutch kit is the dune/trail version which uses 20% stiffer springs than stock but the clutch lever is soooo hard to pull I don't think I could ride longer than 5 minutes without getting a cramp. Has anyone else ever used this kit? If so, how stiff was your clutch?

 

I have a MSR EZ Pull Lever and it is still pretty hard to pull, Previously I was running 3 stock springs & 3 stiff barnett springs and it was not even half as hard to pull.

 

About the only thing i can say is buy a brand new clutch cable, and then do a lot of riding to get used to it, but youd be surprised how much of a difference a bad clutch cable can cause...

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About the only thing i can say is buy a brand new clutch cable, and then do a lot of riding to get used to it, but youd be surprised how much of a difference a bad clutch cable can cause...

 

I would think that if there was a problem with the cable I would have noticed it with the old clutches too. There is no getting used to how stiff this clutch is, especially because I do alot of drag racing and could not quickly shift through the gears.

 

Anyone have first hand experience with this clutch kit?

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grip%5B2%5D.jpg

 

problem solved

 

I shot an E-mail off to Driveline Performance to see if the springs that come with the kit are supposed to be that stiff, they said they are pretty stiff even compared to the stiffer barnett ones and suggested that I swap out 3 of the springs for softer ones since I will be using a lock out anyways.

 

I am going to change out the cable and lever to see if it makes any of a difference but I have a feeling changing out the springs is going to be the best bet :cheers:

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I just installed my driveline performance slingshot lock up and R1 Clutch kit, the clutch kit is the dune/trail version which uses 20% stiffer springs than stock but the clutch lever is soooo hard to pull I don't think I could ride longer than 5 minutes without getting a cramp. Has anyone else ever used this kit? If so, how stiff was your clutch?

 

I have a MSR EZ Pull Lever and it is still pretty hard to pull, Previously I was running 3 stock springs & 3 stiff barnett springs and it was not even half as hard to pull.

 

I bought the same kit from Drive Line and put it in my Billet Barnett Clutch Basket and I had the exact same problem It is a awesome clutch and mine has held up great. I went through two Barnett Dirt Diggers running Hare Scrambles. I don't think a lot of the guys understand just how stiff that clutch set up is. I bought a MSR EZ Pull Lever lever to begin with and I loved the look and feel of it but it didn't seem to help the pull stiffness at all. I went ahead and bit the bullet and bought a new Hydraulic Streamline Clutch off eBay for $169.00 and it fixed the problem! I love it!!! It makes the clutch pull soft and smooth and it engages smoother than any ATV clutch I have ever felt.

 

That being said it was hard to get the adjustment perfect and it was a bitch to get bled properly. Go ahead and put the Stream Line Mineral Oil up and use it for something else and buy a quart of Oil because it will take about a half a quart to do it right. A tech at Streamline told me I could use Synthetic Automatic ATF, or Synthetic Hydraulic Oil made by John Deere or Cub Cadet. I happened to be in Tractor Supply when I was on the phone with him looking for a Hydraulic Oil that wasn't $12.00 for a 4oz bottle when I talked to him so I went with the Cub Cadet Hydraulic Oil and it worked fine.

 

The only other advice I would give you is go ahead and buy a Hand Held Bleeder from Auto-Zone, and go ahead and get Streamline to ship another additional .5" 6mm Hex nut with the kit. My Slave cylinder fucked up three times in a practice endurance race because the cylinder arm didn't get quite enough bite and it kept rattling loose. The travel had to be adjusted all the way out on both ends and I didnt like that. If you go ahead and fix that from the start it will save you a lot time and frustration. Go ahead and buy a Hydraulic Lever you will love it.

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I bought the same kit from Drive Line and put it in my Billet Barnett Clutch Basket and I had the exact same problem It is a awesome clutch and mine has held up great. I went through two Barnett Dirt Diggers running Hare Scrambles. I don't think a lot of the guys understand just how stiff that clutch set up is. I bought a MSR EZ Pull Lever lever to begin with and I loved the look and feel of it but it didn't seem to help the pull stiffness at all. I went ahead and bit the bullet and bought a new Hydraulic Streamline Clutch off eBay for $169.00 and it fixed the problem! I love it!!! It makes the clutch pull soft and smooth and it engages smoother than any ATV clutch I have ever felt.

 

That being said it was hard to get the adjustment perfect and it was a bitch to get bled properly. Go ahead and put the Stream Line Mineral Oil up and use it for something else and buy a quart of Oil because it will take about a half a quart to do it right. A tech at Streamline told me I could use Synthetic Automatic ATF, or Synthetic Hydraulic Oil made by John Deere or Cub Cadet. I happened to be in Tractor Supply when I was on the phone with him looking for a Hydraulic Oil that wasn't $12.00 for a 4oz bottle when I talked to him so I went with the Cub Cadet Hydraulic Oil and it worked fine.

 

The only other advice I would give you is go ahead and buy a Hand Held Bleeder from Auto-Zone, and go ahead and get Streamline to ship another additional .5" 6mm Hex nut with the kit. My Slave cylinder fucked up three times in a practice endurance race because the cylinder arm didn't get quite enough bite and it kept rattling loose. The travel had to be adjusted all the way out on both ends and I didnt like that. If you go ahead and fix that from the start it will save you a lot time and frustration. Go ahead and buy a Hydraulic Lever you will love it.

 

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