dru619 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 i was thinking about this setup too when i have money, right now i have 450 a arms with new ball joints, 450 spindles, 450 shocks, and NOSS +2 tie rods, the setup looks really trick, and is 4inches wider, 1 inch forward and i believe around 2 inches lower, so basicly mx stance. i just put my motor in after i split the cases, but im getting a few other things so i have yet to ride it Daaamn!!! sounds like you already got everything how much travel does it give you?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dru619 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 hey PAT the set-up you're running looks siiick!!!!! looks hella wide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickStartMyHeart Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 I had that same setup and recently sold it all. DO NOT grind the shock!!!!! Grind on the shock mount! Again, DO NOT grind the shock. You arent taking off a lot of material to begin with cuz it doesnt need much to clear the shock mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stacman450 Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 So they are a good fit siiiic!!!! I read the thread that says shows you how to install yfz shocks on a STOCK A-Arm and have to alter the shock and mount for better fitment. I was talking to KODIE on here has the set-up with full flight racing arms (LOOKS HELLA SICC) and had told me that the guy before him had grinded the top part of the shock to fit on his shee, I wanna run the set up just wanna know if i have to alter or grind i'm reading all kinds of people saying they needed to grind a lil part on the top mount others say the bottom etc...... .. so help me put lol BUT YA HOW much for the shocks? gotta pic of em? ive got mine on full flight +2+1 's and i had to grind the top mount only.. the shock itself clears just fine so no need in grinding on the shock itself unless using stock arms.. hope this helps. mine sits a little higher.. but is real beefy and a mcuh smoother ride... good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dru619 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 ive got mine on full flight +2+1 's and i had to grind the top mount only.. the shock itself clears just fine so no need in grinding on the shock itself unless using stock arms.. hope this helps. mine sits a little higher.. but is real beefy and a mcuh smoother ride... good luck Ya that helps alot just one more question Do you have the measurements you used or did you just eyeball it? Any pics?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dru619 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 I had that same setup and recently sold it all. DO NOT grind the shock!!!!! Grind on the shock mount! Again, DO NOT grind the shock. You arent taking off a lot of material to begin with cuz it doesnt need much to clear the shock mount. ok that makes sense how much of the mount did you grind off?? do you have any pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
So Cal Suspension Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 I had that same setup and recently sold it all. DO NOT grind the shock!!!!! Grind on the shock mount! Again, DO NOT grind the shock. You arent taking off a lot of material to begin with cuz it doesnt need much to clear the shock mount. X 5,000,000,000,000,000 There is absolutely no reason whatsoever to grind on the shock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06BCBANSHEE Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 From what i remeber its like maybe 1/8" of material u grind off. I dunno why my ground clearence was so low? I had eyeball engjneering long travel arms. And i had maybe 5" of clearence jn the front. They are meant for 17.5" shocks. Amd the yfz are 15" i believe. Havent installed my elkas yet, im praying that i get more clearence. Otherwise i would have just kept the yfz shocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kodie Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) Both sides of the top part of the shock are ground down that much. That is how it came to me from snop and they fit good. Edited June 8, 2011 by kodie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickStartMyHeart Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 You grind a little bit out from the bottom side of the shock mount and put your shock up there and see if it clears. You'll have to do that several times before you get it to fit nicely. There is absolutley no reason to grind the shock and besides that, when you stup up to elka's or works and try and sell those yfz shocks, nobody will want them if you grinded on em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
So Cal Suspension Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Both sides of the top part of the shock are ground down that much. That is how it came to me from snop and they fit good. Kodie's were already done that way, but Dru, DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!! It's hard to tell from the picture how much was ground off, without a side-by-side of a stock one, but DO NOT do it, AT ALL... removing structural material from around the eyelet is about one of the dumbest things I think I've ever seen... Grind a little bit off the mount, not the shock. I'd hate to see you grind on the shock, and it snap off and you die. Just sayin. Or better yet, buy shocks made for the Banshee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dru619 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 You grind a little bit out from the bottom side of the shock mount and put your shock up there and see if it clears. You'll have to do that several times before you get it to fit nicely. There is absolutley no reason to grind the shock and besides that, when you stup up to elka's or works and try and sell those yfz shocks, nobody will want them if you grinded on em. will do thanx KICKSTART, and everybody who replied I'm gonna grind a lil of the mount, was unsure for a bit because KODIE on here had told me he bought yfz shocks already grinded down and looks hella goood on his SHEE with the full-flight arms however all you veterans say grind the mount so will do.... THANX AGAIN FELLAS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dru619 Posted June 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Kodie's were already done that way, but Dru, DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!! It's hard to tell from the picture how much was ground off, without a side-by-side of a stock one, but DO NOT do it, AT ALL... removing structural material from around the eyelet is about one of the dumbest things I think I've ever seen... Grind a little bit off the mount, not the shock. I'd hate to see you grind on the shock, and it snap off and you die. Just sayin. Or better yet, buy shocks made for the Banshee. good looking Matt ima do the mount, or just wait shocks are waaay expensive for my budget right now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
So Cal Suspension Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 good looking Matt ima do the mount, or just wait shocks are waaay expensive for my budget right now Honestly dude, they're not that expensive. You can find used Works shocks in good condition for $200-$250. I have two sets that (if I can ever get some free time to finish them) I will have for sale soon. In my opinion I would hold off and do it right... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kodie Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 (edited) Send me that pic when you get a chance dont mean to be a bug just want it done right. How much travel do you have in the front? So did your BAD ASS motor come by? What did you get done? How long did it take? I read that you have to send your motor in, in a tote?....... I went on HJR and daaamn luv it AND they're 45mins away from me i'm in San Diego Motor came back on tuesday it looks great. He only had it for about 2 weeks. But I had to send him some gears for the crank that I forgot to send. I got a full motor assembly, with bore/hone, 4 mil stroker, mx hardcore port, port matched cases, chariot head with 21 cc domes, chariot reed cages, 30mm billet intake with built in crossover, +4 timing, heavy duty clutch, moded shift star, and a pancake bearing. I had to get a few oem parts as I couldn't find a few of my used parts. It should be running in a week I am in the middle of a frame up build and will post a build thread with pics as I get finished. And yea I sent it in a tote. But you are only 45 mins away might as well drive it there save on shipping. Edited June 9, 2011 by kodie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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