Larry's Shee Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 This is what I have, except for standard bore http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=479&cat=200&page=1 . If anyone has used simular, I would appreciate any installation tips you may have. I may have been lazy or inattentive when I had motor down, gasket was stuck to head so I left it for fear of fuggin it up. Well sure as shit it was leaking . In the process of cleaning it pussy clean right now, so I'll check back in a bit. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 This is what I have, except for standard bore http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=479&cat=200&page=1 . If anyone has used simular, I would appreciate any installation tips you may have. I may have been lazy or inattentive when I had motor down, gasket was stuck to head so I left it for fear of fuggin it up. Well sure as shit it was leaking . In the process of cleaning it pussy clean right now, so I'll check back in a bit. Thanks You do realize that is for a stroker crank right? Just making sure. A cool head with cut stroker domes is a much better option than a 2mm thick head gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 (edited) double post Edited April 21, 2011 by jbooker82 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 guess I should have mentioned that it does have 4mil crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANSHEE HP Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 This is what I have, except for standard bore http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=479&cat=200&page=1 . If anyone has used simular, I would appreciate any installation tips you may have. I may have been lazy or inattentive when I had motor down, gasket was stuck to head so I left it for fear of fuggin it up. Well sure as shit it was leaking . In the process of cleaning it pussy clean right now, so I'll check back in a bit. Thanks yama-bonding both sides of the spacer would be the proper way to get it sealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 yama-bonding both sides of the spacer would be the proper way to get it sealed. Umm no it wouldnt. You would do that if you wanted to cobble it up. You shouldnt need any gasket sealer. If you do then the cylinder decks are not true or the head is not true. If you must use something then look for K&W Cooper Coat in the aersol can. It is made for headgaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 yeh, copper coat or spray hylomar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar1rules Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Jbooker82, its ok to use yamabond as the head gasket. Its only gotta seal like 140psi in there. Lol. Also, its ok to use duck tape as a base gasket. If you need to change the port timing a little, just apply another layer of duck tape. See how easy it is to fix things.....I mean cobble things. haha. Ahhh shit....the things some people will use yamabond for. At least he didn't say to use rtv silicone. I've seen clear house window caulk used for head gaskets before. The shit that redneck mechanics will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 steel based head gaskets have to be replaced every time. the thick gasket is the "bolt on" way to get it done with the stock head. cometic makes that gasket also. they look a lot like a 4 stroke gasket and the 4 canners dont have problems i agree the head and domes is better if you are particular Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikechief Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 google search " how to anneal a copper gasket " you could replace your base gasket with yamabond.... maybe " I have a dream that one day all the people who don't have any thing constuctive to add ......will shut their fuckin mouth " - Martin Luther Chief Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANSHEE HP Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Umm no it wouldnt. You would do that if you wanted to cobble it up. You shouldnt need any gasket sealer. If you do then the cylinder decks are not true or the head is not true. If you must use something then look for K&W Cooper Coat in the aersol can. It is made for headgaskets. what does cylinder decks not being true have to do with aynthing in this thread? he doesnt mention that cyl decks are outta wack. if your under the assumption that yama-bond/3-bond liquid gasket maker can not be used to seal a head to the cylinder then you are mistaken. ive used stock heads cut/rechambed for 68mm, with higher then 140psi, yamabonded straight to the cylinder and there has never been a problem. just as any aluminum base gasket spacer will need a top and bottum paper gasket to seal, the head spacer plate would require the same thing sumtihng to seal the head to the plate and the plate to the cyl and since we know there are no paper head gaskets.....what does that leave you with?..... yama-band/3-bond. lightly apply the yama-band to both sides of the plate(or head and cylinder), slide the plate over the studs, slide the head down on top of that and torque your head nuts. explain the how that is cobbled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 what does cylinder decks not being true have to do with aynthing in this thread? he doesnt mention that cyl decks are outta wack. if your under the assumption that yama-bond/3-bond liquid gasket maker can not be used to seal a head to the cylinder then you are mistaken. ive used stock heads cut/rechambed for 68mm, with higher then 140psi, yamabonded straight to the cylinder and there has never been a problem. just as any aluminum base gasket spacer will need a top and bottum paper gasket to seal, the head spacer plate would require the same thing sumtihng to seal the head to the plate and the plate to the cyl and since we know there are no paper head gaskets.....what does that leave you with?..... yama-band/3-bond. lightly apply the yama-band to both sides of the plate(or head and cylinder), slide the plate over the studs, slide the head down on top of that and torque your head nuts. explain the how that is cobbled? Yamabond or any thing else on a head gasket is a band aid. If it wont seal on its own then there is something wrong and should be fixed right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANSHEE HP Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=479&cat=200&page=1 ^ that is a spacer plate, not a gasket. a flat piece of aluminum will not seal between a head and cylinder without some sort of liquid gasket, regardless if the deck perfectly true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=479&cat=200&page=1 ^ that is a spacer plate, not a gasket. a flat piece of aluminum will not seal between a head and cylinder without some sort of liquid gasket, regardless if the deck perfectly true. Then I guess the subject line of the this thread should be Vito's 2mm Head Spacer Plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Well fuck me running and call the forum police, or call someone that gives a fuck. Called Vito's this morning and the installation procedure is to use Y-bond or 3-bond on both surfaces, install, torque nuts. One thing that I didn't add last night was that the cooling system was still under pressure a week after it was last ridden. Also no evidence of coolant in cyl while running, just seepage outside. It's a shame some were cofused by the title Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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