Cylinder deck and head studs

[Duneman101]

So i have a few dings in the deck of my cylinders from a dumbass wife that didn't move them off the freezer before she opened it, or dumbass husband if you would rather for leaving them on the freezer, anyways...

 

it's enough that my cool head won't seal properly. My clymers manual talks about putting some sand paper on a piece of glass and resurfacing the deck in a figure 8 pattern... Has anyone ever attempted this successfully? what grit of sand paper did you use?

 

I am replacing the head studs too, some of them won't go all the way into the cylinder, what do you use to clean those out? any acid or cleaners or tricks for that? Do you loctite headstuds before putting them back in?

[BANSHEE HP]

once you get the studs out, run a 8x1.25 tap through them until they clean up, wd-40 and pb-blaster work well as a lubricant/cleaner.

 

the figure 8 on sand paper duct taped to a flat surface does work, but your not going to be remove much material(cylinder deck). the point of doing it is to see that the whole surface of the cylinder is making contact with the sand paper, not to remove gouges. that being said i obviously cant see your cylinders or the extent of the damage. as far as what grit to use 200-300 or so and larger till its smooth, but again this is just to re-surface them not remove mm's on material.

 

also when doing the figure 8 hold the cylinder in different positions so your not favoring the front of back etc. of the cylinder.

[Duneman101]

once you get the studs out, run a 8x1.25 tap through them until they clean up, wd-40 and pb-blaster work well as a lubricant/cleaner.

 

the figure 8 on sand paper duct taped to a flat surface does work, but your not going to be remove much material(cylinder deck). the point of doing it is to see that the whole surface of the cylinder is making contact with the sand paper, not to remove gouges. that being said i obviously cant see your cylinders or the extent of the damage. as far as what grit to use 200-300 or so and larger till its smooth, but again this is just to re-surface them not remove mm's on material.

 

also when doing the figure 8 hold the cylinder in different positions so your not favoring the front of back etc. of the cylinder.

 

 

Thanks, Banshee HP you are the man, thanks for the info... i did realize i wouldn't be removing tons of surface, i just need enough to smooth out a couple small dings... i think the sand paper will work, a local machine shop will deck it for me, but i don't wanna bring my squish down any significant amount.