hnb Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 I did not build my banshee motor first of all -- it was supposedly they way it is when I bought the bike last year -- the reciepts that came with it shows it is what it said it is --- I even called the guys who put the engine together (supposedly a reputable shop) -- anyway still working some bugs out of it -- a lot of frame bushings/bearings ---(swingarm, a-arms, etc....) but the question is I have developed a coolant leak right around the right cylinder bolt -- the front one that is right above the exhaust pipe--- according to my reasearch if I pull the head off then I need to replace the head gasket -- frist quuestion coluld I get by by rechecking the bolts that tighten down the head (retorque) or should I pull the head and make sure the gasket did not crack-----second question --if I pull the head do I need to replace the lower jug gaskets as well --- and can I buy just a stroker head gasket --- trying to save up money to buy a better head and gasket assembly sooner or later---- --- just trying to get by for the rest of the year till the winter weather comes back. I know it is not a hard job to do but I am also a cheap ass sometimes ---- this motor only has about 3 hours on it and I now that have got it running right have only put about 30 minutes on it and it hasn't been out of 3rd gear yet -- keep finding stupid little problems from someone elses "basket case" project. but I will admit this thing does have a lot of balls when you're getting on it -- just looking for some easy information. --- I don't post a lot because most problems I can figure out myself -- but it has been almost 20 years since I have been fiddle -f-ing with a banshee -- so the modded upgrades are somewhat new to me ---- Thanks any help is appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 yes, if you take the head off, you should replace the gasket, and you can spray the new gasket with a gasket joining compound like hylomar, copper spray...etc for added insurance. you can try re tensioning ( if it was never re tensioned after first warm up and cool down, that could be your problem right there) loosen one nut at a time, starting from the inside nuts and work your way out to the edge. no, you dont have to touch the base gasket, but just check the base nuts for tightness while your there. gaskets are cheap, if its still leaking after a re torque, take the head off and check both the head and jugs for straightness (straight edge and feeler gauges) if all is good, get a new gasket spay it, tension it down in steps (10ft/lb, 15,20) working from inside out. is your spacer plate under the jugs or under the head ? is it leaking from the stud or head/jug joining area ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hnb Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 thank for the information --- found the two front nuts closest to the exhaust port pon both side somewhat loose -- retorqued all down properly to 20 ft/lbs according to the manual ---- will run again this weekend and recheck again after a cooldown period -- THANKS AGAIN -- will let you alll know how it turns out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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