tgriffin27 Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 I want to run flattrack this year and I just bought a 2006 banshee to do this with but I barely know all the mods that have been done to it, as far as I know my banshee is basically stock with a few bolt ons. Right now my banshee is 45 inches wide in the front and the track I want to run at has a 50 inch wide maxium rule. I have found a set of lonestar +2 +3 A arms (Upper and Lower) with tie rods and GYT-R skid plates for $300 dollars that look to be new. I am hoping that I already have longer +1 or +2 A arms on my banshee so I can buy these parts and not put my banshee over the 50 inches in width rule. 1. What was the width of the banshee from the factory? 2. Is 300 dollars a good deal on these parts? 3. Are +2 +3 A arms good to run flat track with? I have been reading on here that most flattrackers are running +2 +1 A arms. Thanks for the help I don't want to buy these and not be able to use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 Holy cow, $300 bucks for LSR +2+3 arms? That is a helluva friggin deal! Take them. If you don't, please pm me where and who I need to talk to. I would love those on my flat track setup. You will be able to get away with them being about 50" wide. If you run aftermarket wheels, just discuss the offset you want with the folks you are buying them from. Little tip on that note: if they can't explain or tell you how to properly set your offset, then they aren't worth your dollars. Call someone else. And if they don't quite tech in at 50 inches, just raise the front end up for tech, and lower it at race time. Most techs will never question any name brand aftermarket production setups though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgriffin27 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 Just called him and he still has them and he also has a Gently used solid Chrome Lonestar brand axel for 04 banshee -goes from stock to +3 inches that he wants 200 dollars for. Sounds really expensive to me for a axle but I don't know the pricing on lonestar parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trick2stroke Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 The lonestar axle is 400 new, however, you can get a brand new G-Force for 200 bucks. I've seen plenty of people put them through some major abuse and not have problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 There is a reason one is more the other. Usually the excuse is high end name brand, but in this case it actually isn't. QUALITY! The Lonestar piece will take abuse for years, run higher speeds with less vibration, and flex less. All superior qualities when it comes to racing flat track. Ran my lonestar axle for probably 10 years and I am just now begining to contemplate a replacement. The splines on the hubs are starting to wear, but again, after a decade. So grab that stuff up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trick2stroke Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 I just wanted to say I wasn't meaning to push the G-Force over the LSR as my vague reply might presume. I agree 100% for the same price snag the LSR, however, most won't need worry with the quality difference for the abuse they put it through, just showing a contrasting option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 Agreed: MOST will never push an axle to it's potential. I got ya though. I tried to kinda specify that it was more desirable for actual racing. I just love how much more smooth it can be on really fast smooth surfaces. Only better axle is the RPM Dominator. So, what's he deal griff? I expect to see pics of this LSR stuff on your rig, or a pm tellin me where to get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgriffin27 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 Agreed: MOST will never push an axle to it's potential. I got ya though. I tried to kinda specify that it was more desirable for actual racing. I just love how much more smooth it can be on really fast smooth surfaces. Only better axle is the RPM Dominator. So, what's he deal griff? I expect to see pics of this LSR stuff on your rig, or a pm tellin me where to get it. Just got back from buying the stuff. He was a really nice guy and we talked for hours. I got the Lonestar A-arms,Tie Rods,Skid Plates,Complete Rear Brake Light Assembly with Wiring and I got the Lonestar Adjustable Axle for the really awesome price of $400 Dollars. He HOOKED Me Up. I will post pictures here tommorow of all the stuff got to go to bed now I am tired he lived about a hour from me one way. Will install the axle hopefully sunday and the control arms after May 15 because I am going to a bansheehg meet and ride and dont want to lower it any till after that ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trick2stroke Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 Awesome deal bro! Glad it worked out for you. I agree the RPM and LSR are some of the best, never personally used a durablue or Gforce. I run a RAD 40mm titanium axle with threaded alum hubs now, incredibly light and strong! Best I've had the pleasure of using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgriffin27 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 Here's the pics of the stuff I got last night.Let me know how to tell if these are actually +3's ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted April 10, 2011 Report Share Posted April 10, 2011 LSR is very high quality parts. measure the a-arms compared to your stockers the upper ball joints are out WAY to far on LSR's site there is a simple install, setup page that will guide you through the install and set up. just DO it just like they say and go get the degree finder its very easy that way just take your time in setting the camber and caster. i'm NOT a flat track dude but dont be afraid to play with it a lil bit after you have it all on. good find!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trick2stroke Posted April 10, 2011 Report Share Posted April 10, 2011 I have pretty much the identical LSR a arms on one of the banshee's and the uppers have to be that far out otherwise you have ridiculous camber. Obviously this is a weak point as one of the balljoints on mine has bent in the past. The lowers are threaded all the way in also just as his are pictured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgriffin27 Posted April 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2011 I have pretty much the identical LSR a arms on one of the banshee's and the uppers have to be that far out otherwise you have ridiculous camber. Obviously this is a weak point as one of the balljoints on mine has bent in the past. The lowers are threaded all the way in also just as his are pictured. Great Information I will have to be careful and keep my eye on that situation. What size are your a arms? He couldn't remember the size of these when he listed them but he thought they where +2 +3's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted April 10, 2011 Report Share Posted April 10, 2011 i'm not sure why they did that i have seen some that way in the past if you DO need to move them out that far at LEAST get some nuts and put on the threaded part sticking out. that will make the ball joints much less likey to break i have seen the snap off after big huge wheelies and its not pretty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted April 10, 2011 Report Share Posted April 10, 2011 ohh also looking at the pic the uppers hymes are all the way in you can move them out pretty far most all your adjustment is done with the hymes and NOT the ball joints. i would much rather have about an inch of 2 hymes sticking out on the mount than the ball joint hangin by 2-3 threads on the end. if you take the time to get nuts for the amounts that are sticking out on the hymes and the balls you will have a much stronger front end for racing. rember if you are racing like we did around here your gonna bump some peeps and maybe tap the wal sometimes hate to have you wreck from not spending about 5 bucks on some strength.. just a thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.