NetBSD Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) first banshee ive owned so i know very little about them but i picked up a decent 1995 with unknown mods other then toomey t5's. i would like to check it all over but dont know the common issues, things to keep a check on and what to spot for mods that have been done. can anyone point me into the right direction for a basic going over? so far i have rode the bike 3 times and all seems good to me but i notice some clatter or pinging on the right cylinder, seems to come in when im up to operating temps but isnt real loud. both pipes have even amount of exhaust flow. ive rebuilt a few 4 strokers in my time but like i said this is my first 2 stroke and i dont really know much about them Edited April 5, 2011 by NetBSD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boston Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 i know alot of people might get mad.. but im just gonna tell you i learned alot.. id use the search box on the tool bar and browse around alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcardracing Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 I would highly recommend doing a compression test to verify both cylinders are within 5psi of each other. Check the intake boots for weathering/cracks. Check the condition of the air filters, chain, chain guides and sprockets. Get a leakdown test done to verify there are no air leaks. Give it a good service. These are absolute bare minimum new bike check items. Me personally; I pull the engine down and check the crank, transmission, pistons, bores, clutch and see if any internal mods have been done. Then, re-assemble using new seals, gaskets, billet impellor and pancake bearing. Put a new chain and sprockets on if they are not new. There is a lot of good info on this site, use the search feature and if you can't find what you're looking for post it up. Welcome to the site. -Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burt Reynolds Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 I would highly recommend doing a compression test to verify both cylinders are within 5psi of each other. Check the intake boots for weathering/cracks. Check the condition of the air filters, chain, chain guides and sprockets. Get a leakdown test done to verify there are no air leaks. Give it a good service. These are absolute bare minimum new bike check items. Me personally; I pull the engine down and check the crank, transmission, pistons, bores, clutch and see if any internal mods have been done. Then, re-assemble using new seals, gaskets, billet impellor and pancake bearing. Put a new chain and sprockets on if they are not new. There is a lot of good info on this site, use the search feature and if you can't find what you're looking for post it up. Welcome to the site. -Brandon x2 The more the better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetBSD Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 should i take cold compression test or engine at operating temp? im doing the leakdown test this weekend to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 egh boy......NET you just stumbled across something that can cause an argument here...hahaha. some will tell you that you "need" to do a compression test while its warm.....another will tell you that you "need" to do it while its cold. its basically up to the individual. My look on the subject is that if a motor comes into any shop not running and the mechanic is checking things real quick to discover the problem......how in the hell is he gonna be able to get a good compression test if he "must" do it while the motor is cold. He woudln't be able to do it. So my beliefs are that it CAN and probably should be done from the cold temp. although i do know that 2 different compression testers will always read different so i use the numbers as more of a set of quick reference/maintance numbers. There is one thing though.....when you do the compression test you should be using a comp tester that has the same length of threads that screw into the head as the spark plugs do...... the longer and shorter ones can throw your numbers off.......as to how much i have no idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetBSD Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 yeah i have been getting alot of mixed answers just like you said. ill start with a cold test and see whats up. my main concern right now is just to check and make sure both cyl. have about the same or are within 5psi of each other. thanks for the info, im goin out to run the comp test now and strip the plastics off the bike for buffing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcardracing Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 Cold or hot, the compression test will show you variation if any between the two cylinders. Compression will rise slightly on a warm engine vs a cold one. Compression testers also vary, they are a good tool to determine engine condition but are not to be used to determine fuel octane requirements. When an engine is fresh you should take compression readings and record them, then periodically with the same guage and same conditions (whether warmed or cold) retest to keep track of the engines condition. I advise to rebuild or re-ring after you have lost more than 5psi of compression or if the cylinders vary by more than 5psi of each other. If it is a fresh engine and the cylinders vary by more than 5psi (after breakin) there is a possibly a problem with ring seal or port sizes if it was ported during the rebuild. I hope this helps answers your questions. -Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetBSD Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 ok so i did a compression test, i hooked up one cyl at a time leaving the other spark plug in and on a single kick i get 40PSI on both. maybe a 2psi difference between the 2 but im only seeing 40PSI, what gives? bike starts and runs amazing, 2 kicks after sitting the past 3 days in 40*F weather. am i taking the test wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstaton1983 Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 one kick isnt enough.you need to kick it while at full throttle until the needle stops climbing on the guage . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetBSD Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 one kick isnt enough.you need to kick it while at full throttle until the needle stops climbing on the guage . ok will do, thanks. it kept climbing when i kicked a few times but wasnt sure if that was the right way. ill take a second test and post results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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