troyzstang Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 I will have to drain it out anyways to service it anyways so I will check. I wouldn't think that would be it since I just put it together with all new seals and gaskets. But I will check. Is filing the clutch basket fingers a bad thing? I wouldn't think it would hurt anything really, would it? File away unless it's really wore out. You'll be able to tell if it's to far gone when you ride it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Troy I rode it maybe 10 minutes without any clutch...just clicking it in gear. Still no change and a stiff clutch pull lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burt Reynolds Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) Troy I rode it maybe 10 minutes without any clutch...just clicking it in gear. Still no change and a stiff clutch pull lol. if the clutches are new i would say its the basket Edited April 5, 2011 by Burt Reynolds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyzstang Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Troy I rode it maybe 10 minutes without any clutch...just clicking it in gear. Still no change and a stiff clutch pull lol. If memory serves me right. You should be able to completely reassemble the clutch assembly with out the cover and see how far the basket dissengages. Please chime in guys if I'm wrong. Too many bikes to remember there operating components. ( or I'm just getting forgetful) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstaten24 Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 When I did my first rebuild I had this problem. What ended up being the problem was the adjustment on the clutch basket cover. Adjusted that and it ran fine after that. From my understanding the handlebar adjustment is more for freeplay of the lever than adjusting the actual clutch but I could be wrong about that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 I think truthfully it's the pancake bearing adjustment/ clutch arm lining up that is causing the problem....but I'm still gonna file the fingers on the basket a little while I have it apart. Like I said, as soon as I get a little time in the next few days I will tear it down again and report back with my findings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 reporting back...I finally got a minute to work on it tonight. Well first off I have a new OEM cable, new Tusk clutch, new pancake bearing from HJR, new clutch springs (3 HD's and 3 OEM). I will set the clutch arm mark with the case mark, but when I go to adust out my clutch lever I'm on the last couple of threads that screw into the lever?! If the clutch arm is adjusted a little to the stator side I have about half the threads in the clutch lever. So what I'm asking is it ok to be a little closer to the stator or is it crutial to be lined up with the case mark? Also is there anyway to check the clutch to make sure it's right before putting the cover on and filling it with fluids? I notice that the center screw on the pancake bearing may be barely touching the clutch cover...would this prevent any clutch travel? I don't think this is my issue but who knows. I'm getting fed up with this adjustment issue and frustrated....I'm about to the point to take it to the dealer lol and get raped on labor! Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stacman450 Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 dont use synthetic oil in the tranny and clutch.. dont know if you are. but it wont work just in case you are.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 using atf type-F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 When you adjusted at pressure plate did you have plenty of slack in cable before/while adjusting? Double check pancake is installed correctly. Maybe pull clutch arm and see if it's excessively worn. Have seen where some don't worry to much with aligning clutch marks, I have no experience with that. With a new cable you should have way more adj at lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 yes I had plenty of slack in the cable before adjusting the pancake bearing. I ran the clutch perch screw on the lever all the way in before I tried to line the arrows up at the case. Confused and frustrated at this point...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 dont use synthetic oil in the tranny and clutch.. dont know if you are. but it wont work just in case you are.. Synthetic oil is fine as long as it is rated for wet clutch/gearbox use. The Klotz Flex Drive 30 is synthetic and it works great, never lost a bearing, gear, shift fork, or clutch ball, and the bike shifts great and the clutch doesn't slip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 Klotz Flexdrive 30 is what I plan to switch to after I get it adjusted correctly. I find it easier on the wallet to use the cheap atf when I drain it out for adjustment. But when its fixed I'm going to use Klotz for sure. Man I wish I could fix this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Cannot figure it out...off to the stealership tomorrow morning. I'm sure they will take their sweet ol' time on it and run the shop bill way up with a lot of extra un-needed parts along with the usual "you should've let our great shop build your bike...we're trained professionals". Oh well, I will post up the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Dropped it off to the yamaha shop today and as stated I got the following " Toomey is the only builder we recommend for banshees. Kevin Herr...who's that? Running a setup without a base gasket and only 3-Bond...what engine builder would recommend that? How can the port timing be correct? Blah, blah, blah. ". Finally I gave up with him and said just adjust the clutch and I will worry about it blowing up lol. Hopefully they're capable of this repair and a simple rear brake adjustment along with a retorque of the base nuts/ Noss head. We will see in about a week when they will finish it supposedly. I'm sure I will get raped lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.