FullThrottle_06' Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) Hey all, I just purchased a bone stock 06' banshee that has a couple minor mod's (fmf pipes, boost bottle). Before purchasing the bike I drilled the previous owner of questions a bout the bike's mechanical history with there being NONE that he was aware of (young kid had it). Being that this bike is 5 yrs old now and not knowing of its previous mechinical history, it is in need of a clutch I do believe. Besides I would feel more comfortable installing a new one with me being the new owner that way I know when it was done and whats in it. When the bike is first started in neutral and shifted into first it takes off just a tad. After riding it for a few minutes, if you were wanting to come to a stop and sit for a min. it will not shift into neutral to save its life. Also if you were to go WOT and short shift real fast through the gears it won't grab unless letting off the throttle. Mind all of you I am a natural gas eng. & comp. mech. for a living so I very mechanically inclined and have had sport quads in the past, but very unfamiliar with the banshee motor at this time. After doing a small amount of research (without going to go buy a manual yet) Toomey racing has the best explanation on clutch installation. Leading to my second question now, what kind of clutch are ya'll runnning with these simialr mods? Or who do you know thats running a slightly better than OEM clutch? I've read good thinds about Tusk and I am leaning that way at the moment unless strayed in a diff. direction. I have seen a alot of company's that offer clutch replacement kits such as: Tusk, Toomey, EBC, VIto's, Wiseco, Barnett. Gentlemen, I would appreciate the advice and expertise on this matter and look forward to hearing everyone's response's. Edited April 3, 2011 by FullThrottle_06' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Hey all, I just purchased a bone stock 06' banshee that has a couple minor mod's (fmf pipes, boost bottle). Before purchasing the bike I drilled the previous owner of questions a bout the bike's mechanical history with there being NONE that he was aware of (young kid had it). Being that this bike is 5 yrs old now and not knowing of its previous mechinical history, it is in need of a clutch I do believe. Besides I would feel more comfortable installing a new one with me being the new owner that way I know when it was done and whats in it. When the bike is first started in neutral and shifted into first it takes off just a tad. After riding it for a few minutes, if you were wanting to come to a stop and sit for a min. it will not shift into neutral to save its life. Also if you were to go WOT and short shift real fast through the gears it won't grab unless letting off the throttle. Mind all of you I am a natural gas eng. & comp. mech. for a living so I very mechanically inclined and have had sport quads in the past, but very unfamiliar with the banshee motor at this time. After doing a small amount of research (without going to go buy a manual yet) Toomey racing has the best explanation on clutch installation. Leading to my second question now, what kind of clutch are ya'll runnning with these simialr mods? Or who do you know thats running a slightly better than OEM clutch? I've read good thinds about Tusk and I am leaning that way at the moment unless strayed in a diff. direction. I have seen a alot of company's that offer clutch replacement kits such as: Tusk, Toomey, EBC, VIto's, Wiseco, Barnett. Gentlemen, I would appreciate the advice and expertise on this matter and look forward to hearing everyone's response's. Check the link in my signature, there is a step by step walkthrough of the bottom end there. It sounds like you have one or multiples of the following things going on... your clutch plates are just getting worn out, your clutch basket and inner hub might be getting grooved up, your clutch cable is stretched, and your clutch adjustment is out of adjustment from all of the above. The only way to tell whats really going on is to open it up and check things out. Its easy to do a clutch on a banshee. The Tusk HD clutch kit will be plenty for your setup. You will like it. You would probably get away with just running 3 of the HD springs and still be just fine. Alternate them... stock, HD, stock, HD, etc. If you have the $ then get a billet basket. The stock cast baskets groove up easy and will give you the creeping issue. Magnum is a good billet basket and is pretty cheap. They are all better than stock. Get rid of the boost bottle. They are over-size and will eventually crack your intakes and cause an air leak. Pick up a stock cross-over tube from ebay or one of the members here on HQ. But definitely get rid of the boost bottle. - Jared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 ok, what you are describing is not a clutch issue. when the clutch is slipping, it will rev a little higher tha it is actually moving under load, or take a while to kick-in, just revving for a bit when you let the clutch in. it sounds to me, like a couple things to look at. first, your shifter may have too much slop, and 2nd, you may want to try a better oil in the gearcase, but really, that is a trait of the banshee. when you have it under load, you have to either blip off the throttle, or clutch it real quick to shift. and, it is normal to have trouble finding neutral while running. some practice, and making sure your shifter assy is tight. there is little bearings on the shaft where it crosses to the other side, and the splines can wear out. as for clutch replacement, first thing to check is the adjustment. you have to have some play that you can feel before it hits the clutch to release, or there can be damage done with the pushrod and ball being under coinstant load, not getting oil. and, as the clutch wears, the play gets tighter. for good brand clutch to go with, tusk is a good, proven replacement brand, for quite a bit of modding/abuse, but the next level, i would go to a fast clutch kit. it's actually what i have in my bike, along with a lock-up, but that is a whole other story. there is also stiffer springs that hold the clutch harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FullThrottle_06' Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 (edited) ok, what you are describing is not a clutch issue. when the clutch is slipping, it will rev a little higher tha it is actually moving under load, or take a while to kick-in, just revving for a bit when you let the clutch in. it sounds to me, like a couple things to look at. first, your shifter may have too much slop, and 2nd, you may want to try a better oil in the gearcase, but really, that is a trait of the banshee. when you have it under load, you have to either blip off the throttle, or clutch it real quick to shift. and, it is normal to have trouble finding neutral while running. some practice, and making sure your shifter assy is tight. there is little bearings on the shaft where it crosses to the other side, and the splines can wear out. as for clutch replacement, first thing to check is the adjustment. you have to have some play that you can feel before it hits the clutch to release, or there can be damage done with the pushrod and ball being under coinstant load, not getting oil. and, as the clutch wears, the play gets tighter. for good brand clutch to go with, tusk is a good, proven replacement brand, for quite a bit of modding/abuse, but the next level, i would go to a fast clutch kit. it's actually what i have in my bike, along with a lock-up, but that is a whole other story. there is also stiffer springs that hold the clutch harder. Thanks for the advice fella's. I'll use anything I can get right now. Akheathen I will take these suggestions into consideration and look further into these issue's. I want to get this resolved asap Edited April 4, 2011 by FullThrottle_06' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FullThrottle_06' Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the advice fella's. I'll use anything I can get right now. Akheathen I will take these suggestions into consideration and look further into these issue's. I want to get this resolved asap BigRed350x, major MAJOR!!!! thumbs up on the bottem end assembly thread man. Fantastic job on the step-by-step pics. It is nice to see that some people out there still take good pride in doing the job correctly.Very big help for me getting a good visual at a "ground up" build. Illustrated builds such as this one is what makes it easier for us mechanics to communicate more efficiently. Got a question though. What is it with this pancake bearing? what is the difference between the pancake bearing and I guess the regualr bearing and what does it do? I guess my question is: what is the significance of the pancake bearing?? Edited April 4, 2011 by FullThrottle_06' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willaduncan Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 BigRed350x, major MAJOR!!!! thumbs up on the bottem end assembly thread man. Fantastic job on the step-by-step pics. It is nice to see that some people out there still take good pride in doing the job correctly.Very big help for me getting a good visual at a "ground up" build. Illustrated builds such as this one is what makes it easier for us mechanics to communicate more efficiently. Got a question though. What is it with this pancake bearing? what is the difference between the pancake bearing and I guess the regualr bearing and what does it do? I guess my question is: what is the significance of the pancake bearing?? It is extra insurance to minimize the chance of welding your ball to your shaft and possible mushrooming the other end of the shaft and then have fun pulling it out..... :: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 first off if your an experienced mech you should know the importance of a manual. now that being said the bad thing about the manual is it only refer's to OEM stuff. so thats where we come in ( sometimes.) the creeping is worn clutch, and from age standpoint all that other stuff listed above.. the trans is an inherint issue with the actual transmission itself. the only way to TRULY fix that is pulling the motor splitting the trans and having a stock modified trans done and reinstalled. ( i just happen to know some one that does a really good one !!<<<) the tusk clutch is a great budget clutch. all the others are not going to be much better quality than that one. if its a higher HP motor i prefer the driveline performance due to its quality and cost. you will deffinetly want to look into a billet basket the mattoon is a nice one and at a decent price. most other brands are hard coated which is a very nice feature. BUT they have extremely weak backing plates and mounting hardware.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlsparky7 Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Full rebuild series starts here. There are also dissassembly vids if you poke around my channel a little. All kindsa fun stuff. Let me know what you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willaduncan Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 first off if your an experienced mech you should know the importance of a manual. now that being said the bad thing about the manual is it only refer's to OEM stuff. so thats where we come in ( sometimes.) the creeping is worn clutch, and from age standpoint all that other stuff listed above.. the trans is an inherint issue with the actual transmission itself. the only way to TRULY fix that is pulling the motor splitting the trans and having a stock modified trans done and reinstalled. ( i just happen to know some one that does a really good one !!<<<) the tusk clutch is a great budget clutch. all the others are not going to be much better quality than that one. if its a higher HP motor i prefer the driveline performance due to its quality and cost. you will deffinetly want to look into a billet basket the mattoon is a nice one and at a decent price. most other brands are hard coated which is a very nice feature. BUT they have extremely weak backing plates and mounting hardware.. The weaker backing plate and mounting hardware really only pose a threat to the high HP motors correct? on everyday trail bikes the backingplate & hardware is just fine from what I have heard... correct me if Im wrong but thats what I understand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willaduncan Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 fullthrottle also follow jlsparky7's videos man along with a manual ofcourse and you will be just fine, if you do upgrade to a billet basket take an angle grinder knock the heads of the rivets off on the back of the gear take a punch and knock em out then take the gear and washer put it on the new basket with the new gear and basket bushings and there ya go, just in case you were wondering there isnt really a write up on it that I could find Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 fullthrottle also follow jlsparky7's videos man along with a manual ofcourse and you will be just fine, if you do upgrade to a billet basket take an angle grinder knock the heads of the rivets off on the back of the gear take a punch and knock em out then take the gear and washer put it on the new basket with the new gear and basket bushings and there ya go, just in case you were wondering there isnt really a write up on it that I could find Theres a write-up in the Technical area that was done by AKheathen.....its for how to repair the Hinson baskets.....basically gets the point your talking across... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FullThrottle_06' Posted December 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 Holy shit, why the hell did this get drug out of the closet?? This was probably one of the first post's I ever posted on this site. I've learned TONS of stuff about this motor since freakin April! Reading this now makes me see what a dusch bag I sounded like! Everyone ignore this non-sense and carry on. Thanks Willaplumpkin for going dumpster diving for us though hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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