06BCBANSHEE Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 so I went riding today, the trail is just loose gravell. It had a bunch of water holes only about a foot deep but really wide. I usually try to avoid puddles but i hit a few of them. Shortly after it had no power at all, would go only about 5 MPH in 1st gear. It was constantly bogging down (almost like when you rev it with the parking brake on.) I drove back to my truck (slowly) had to push it a few times because it died. I was thinking it was my piston rings. By the time I got home i started it up and it seems to run fine. was it just water in the carb? do banshees really hate water this much also how long can u let a good running banshee idle for without hitting the gas. If i dont blip the throttles, after about 30 secs or so it dies. is this normal? seems like it didn do this when i had the boost bottle on. I recently replaced it with the stock crossover tube. thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boston Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 does it still have the tors system on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06BCBANSHEE Posted April 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 does it still have the tors system on it? yea it still has the TORS. noob question, but the screw on top of the TORS is that the idle screw? i would like it to idle a lil higher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boston Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 yeah. so what you need to do is unplug the wire that goes up to a little black box thats on the side of your gas tank. that should be your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06BCBANSHEE Posted April 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 yeah. so what you need to do is unplug the wire that goes up to a little black box thats on the side of your gas tank. that should be your problem. unplug the wire that goes from the TORS to the black box. unplug it and re plug it back in? or leave it unplugged. its running fine now, only seems to happen when i go through a puddle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetBSD Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) OP sorry to highjack yeah. so what you need to do is unplug the wire that goes up to a little black box thats on the side of your gas tank. that should be your problem. i just bought a 1995 that has this box on it and i noticed it unplugged today, plugged it in and bike refuses to start. main question, whats the box for? EDIT: some more searching got me the info. Edited April 3, 2011 by NetBSD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boston Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 keep it unpluged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetBSD Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 keep it unpluged going for the removal kit monday, one of my buddies said a local shop has it in stock usually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 Have you removed the park brake wire, it could be moisture in the switch shorting it out and engaging the park brake rev limiter when it is wet. Go to the CDI box plug at the rear of the bike, find the green/yellow wire in the BIKE side of the connector, cut the green/yellow wire off of the bike harness connector( not the CDI box side of the connector). This will remove the park brake rev limiter from the bike and you won't have problems with it shorting to ground when it is wet and engaging the park brake rev limiter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 yes the mikuni carbs just hate water that much.....the TORS system is meant to sense when your carbs stick that a certain throttle range but your throttle gets released.......this will limit the ignition so that it goes basically into a "limp-in" mode.......so you can at least get SOMEWHERE. Alot of people have problems with the TORS systems....so they usually remove them. However yours seems to be working correctly.........since you went through water and it held the bike from going WOT into the trees with you on it...haha. IF it really freaking out you can actually just unplug the little black box as mentioned earlier (under gas tank left side of bike) and leave it unplugged and it will just disable the tors system. And yes the screw on top of the TORS system IS for adjusting your throttle. If you do decide to remove your TORS then you have to get the kit which will include a new throttle cable, carb caps and also idle screws (since your current idle screws are mounted on the TORS unit) You'll have to take the carbs off and then drill out and tap a certain hole (in a boss on the carb) and then tap it so that you can thread the idle screw in so that you can actually have an idling banshee... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 actually, what you describe suggests that it has nothing at all to do with the tors systems. either 1of 2 things happened. first, you could get water to the filter, or even in the carbs float bowls themselfs. that will change the jetting, basically, by restricting the filter, and making it pull more fuel and get excessively rich, or blocking the jetting if it's in the float bowl, and stopping the main jets, which can usually make it lean out, which would show up as a lean run-away at times. next, could be water getting into the electrical, usually effecting corroded connections around the stator/flywheel, or at the coil/plug wires. a little tearing into it can show you where either is happening. as for the tors........ there is nothing mystical or complicated about it. lack of understanding makes people point at it for every weird thing. the Throttle OverRide System is real simple. it is consistant of basically 4 switches. there is one in the thumb lever, which grounds at rest, 2 in the carbs, which ground when the slide pulls down at idle, and the little black box........ yep, it, too is just a switch. it connects to the same black/white wire that you trigger with the killswitch, ground, and the other 3 switches. whe it does not see ground through the other 3 switches(either the throttle, or both the carbs) it switches the black/white to ground. when you spark gets killed i wierd ways, it's usually because one of these switches went bad. usually from corrosion, wiring damage, or forcing the idle screws, once they have bottomed. the p-brake limiter, is a whole other circuit. it simply triggers a low rev limiter if you forget to release the p-brake. it, too, is susceptible to damage form riding, or elements. long story- short. don't waste too much time barking up the tors tree, and look at your filter and ignition wiring. a little di-electric does wonders. but be sure to use the right one on the plugs. "tune-up grease" at your local parts store counter. ....ps, there is a bigger problem when you get the stock carbs real wet...... idk, if it's a lean cond. from plugged jets, or venturri freezing, but they like to run-away. i usually, just ride it out, and let heat flash the moisture out, or play with the choke on/off, if i just washed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06BCBANSHEE Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) actually, what you describe suggests that it has nothing at all to do with the tors systems. either 1of 2 things happened. first, you could get water to the filter, or even in the carbs float bowls themselfs. that will change the jetting, basically, by restricting the filter, and making it pull more fuel and get excessively rich, or blocking the jetting if it's in the float bowl, and stopping the main jets, which can usually make it lean out, which would show up as a lean run-away at times. next, could be water getting into the electrical, usually effecting corroded connections around the stator/flywheel, or at the coil/plug wires. a little tearing into it can show you where either is happening. as for the tors........ there is nothing mystical or complicated about it. lack of understanding makes people point at it for every weird thing. the Throttle OverRide System is real simple. it is consistant of basically 4 switches. there is one in the thumb lever, which grounds at rest, 2 in the carbs, which ground when the slide pulls down at idle, and the little black box........ yep, it, too is just a switch. it connects to the same black/white wire that you trigger with the killswitch, ground, and the other 3 switches. whe it does not see ground through the other 3 switches(either the throttle, or both the carbs) it switches the black/white to ground. when you spark gets killed i wierd ways, it's usually because one of these switches went bad. usually from corrosion, wiring damage, or forcing the idle screws, once they have bottomed. the p-brake limiter, is a whole other circuit. it simply triggers a low rev limiter if you forget to release the p-brake. it, too, is susceptible to damage form riding, or elements. long story- short. don't waste too much time barking up the tors tree, and look at your filter and ignition wiring. a little di-electric does wonders. but be sure to use the right one on the plugs. "tune-up grease" at your local parts store counter. Im pretty sure it was just water in the carbs, it looked like it was running a little rich afterwards. blue smoke was coming out the exhaust afterwards. I run my shee 40;1 so it usually doesnt smoke after its warmed up. my bike is a 06 and is in really good condition. should i cut the parking brake wire? I dont really wanna mess with the TORS unless it really starts giving me problems. this has happened before usually only lasts about 20 seconds, I just keep riding and it eventually goes back to normal. I dont really want to start cutting wires unless they are able to prevent this from happening again. thanks alot guys Edited April 5, 2011 by 06BCBANSHEE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06BCBANSHEE Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 also so if i unplug the black box, under the gas tank. this will disable the TORS system? so if i go through a puddle again, it wont do what happened to me before? acting like a rev limiter. also if i unplug this, will i still be able to adjust the idle? my banshee only idles for about 30 seconds before dying if i dont blip the throttle. should i bump the idle up a bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 also so if i unplug the black box, under the gas tank. this will disable the TORS system? so if i go through a puddle again, it wont do what happened to me before? acting like a rev limiter. also if i unplug this, will i still be able to adjust the idle? my banshee only idles for about 30 seconds before dying if i dont blip the throttle. should i bump the idle up a bit? yes it will disable the TORS system. if you go through a puddle with the little black box removed it will not act as a rev limiter and leave you struggling to ride your bike back. it WILL however leave the chance for your carb slides to stick wide open at full throttle (which is why your TORS activated in the first place) and you will be stuck with a bike that is on a mission to ride you inot the woods at full speed. yea you heard right.....it can force the bike to go full throttle while your on it. Thats what the TORS was designed to fight against. your seems to be working fine (which is why im kinda against you removing a perfectly working safety feature). yes if you unplug it you will still be able to adjust the idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06BCBANSHEE Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 yes it will disable the TORS system. if you go through a puddle with the little black box removed it will not act as a rev limiter and leave you struggling to ride your bike back. it WILL however leave the chance for your carb slides to stick wide open at full throttle (which is why your TORS activated in the first place) and you will be stuck with a bike that is on a mission to ride you inot the woods at full speed. yea you heard right.....it can force the bike to go full throttle while your on it. Thats what the TORS was designed to fight against. your seems to be working fine (which is why im kinda against you removing a perfectly working safety feature). yes if you unplug it you will still be able to adjust the idle. alright thanks guys Yea i wouldnt wanna be shot full throttle on some of the places i ride. Ill keep it on then. Whats the best thing to do when this happens? just let it idle for a bit? keep giving it gas or just let it sit? why do ppl take these off? seems crazy if it can send u flying into something full throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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