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Help please!


AustinK

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Alright so I have a 2000 bored .40 over, mikuni flatside 28mm carbs, k&n pod no air box, pro circuit exhaust, I'm using yamalube 2R 32:1 mix, oh and e-brake delete. I have just put it all back together, the bike fires right up but has an idle surge revs up and then down. I adjusted the idle screws it levels out but seems like its idling at a higher rpm then normal. If you so much as tap the throttle it sucks in air and chokes out. If I slowly slowly rev press on the throttle it slightly starts to rev then chokes out but it seems like the motor rpms aren't moving at all. I have cleaned the carbs, the jets and everything. I haven't had the carbs jetted yet, not sure what size to go with yet still researching that, but they have 180 mains in them now. Any other ideas as to what could cause this problem?

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Has it ever ran right, or is this a fresh build and new carbs? Take of the filter and make sure the carbs are sync'd and make sure the slides are all the way down. If it idles that high, let the idle screws all the way out to let the slides down and try again (it shouldn't start without giving it some throttle.) Start with that; then pressure test it if it doesn't work.

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Just noticed that you haven't jetted the carbs at all. Well, that's the problem. If they are Mikuni's I think they would have the same #s as the stockers (but not sure). If that IS the case, the mains are waaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy lean, since even bone stock is 200 mains. If the mains are that small, the pilots are probably waaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyy small, too; and that is why it idles so high. Forget my previous suggestion and jet the carbs first. Maybe some gas carb experts will chime in. The only gas carb that I can recommend jets for is stock.

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find someone to help you that knows what to do. even if you have to PAY them

 

mikuni's i'd think 30 slows and 300 mains BUT it all matters on the needle taper as to what to jet it to. you may have to play with jetting to get the slow and main close and then figure out the needle from there. OR call SUDCO and tell them the carbs you have and then get the recomended starting jetting/ needles and mains FOR the banshee.

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find someone to help you that knows what to do. even if you have to PAY them

 

mikuni's i'd think 30 slows and 300 mains BUT it all matters on the needle taper as to what to jet it to. you may have to play with jetting to get the slow and main close and then figure out the needle from there. OR call SUDCO and tell them the carbs you have and then get the recomended starting jetting/ needles and mains FOR the banshee.

 

Cool thanks. No one around can seem to even pronounce two stroke much less work on them so I'm on my own.

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Carb specs are:

350 main jet at sea level

5L1 Needle 2nd clip from top

175 P4 nozzle

25 pilot jet at 1 turn out on air screw

slide cutout 2.5

needle'seat 2.5

float height 22mm

 

This should be safe zone and will require tuning from there to fine it up.

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Since you put on different carbs, you did away with the TORS crap at the carbs, BUT did you unplug the control box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil?

 

No I don't believe I have, I was told to unplug the e-brake plug since I did the delete, but I haven't unplug the control box down there. I will give that a whirl. What does that box do?

 

Also tell us temp and elevation. Will help to narrow jetting a little, as to a little fatter or leaner. You want to start rich and come down from ther. Plugs are cheaper than pistons. That way you can get a range of jets.

 

Temp for this season will range from 70-85, summer time will be more in the 85-100. Elevation is about 350-400 above sea level. Last night fooled around with the needle clips to see if that would make a difference and it's still doing the same thing.

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