acroadam Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 I just re-installed my clutch. I did everything as the clymer said. I torqued my clutch nut to 66 ft lbs, when put my metal plates I lined the first one with the arrow, then stacked each one 60 degrees clockwise. Tighten down my 6 pressure screws, I did a crisscross pattern at 7.4 ft lbs. My clutch cable is lined up with the arrows. Ok, here is the problem, the banshee won't move when the clutch is pushed in. It acts like its in gear when I have the clutch lever pulled in. When I find neutral, it acts like its in gear. I'm confused on why it won't let me free push the banshee. Is there something I did wrong? Let me know shee masters. Thanks. Adam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstaton1983 Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 so your saying it will not roll with clutch pulled in? is this with the engine running or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 So it won't roll if the bike is in neutral either? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Got your adjuster set correctly? I'm fighting this same deal right now but am waiting for my new pancake bearing adjuster before I tear back into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acroadam Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 I still have my clutch cover off, so I do it when it's not running. I thought the clutch was adjusted right cuz there is good tension with my clutch handle lever. And the acuator arrows are lined up. I did go back out there and I put pressure with my hand on the shift shaft that sits on the shift star, and I got it shifted into neutral, and it rolls fine. So don't know why it wouldn't roll with the lever pulled back. It wouldn't matter what gear your in as long as you have the lever pulled back. So I don't know if I fixed it...anymore ideas? If the arrows line up, and you have good tension on the clutch handle lever, is it adjusted right? And the adjustment bolt, I noticed when i tighten it, it's still loose, is that normal? And how far out should my pressure plate come out when I pull the lever in? Thanks. Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 The pressure plate won't move much at all. If you have the cover off, check to see if it's moving at all. Are you sure you put the ball back in? I would guess so since you said it has tension in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Be a great chance to upgrade to a pancake bearing adjuster while you've got it down to work on it. Cheap insurance IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acroadam Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Be a great chance to upgrade to a pancake bearing adjuster while you've got it down to work on it. Cheap insurance IMO. Ya it moves enough that I can put a penny between the pressure plate. Is the pancake adjuster 11, 12, 13 on the oem parts diagram at cheapcycleparts.com? I went out there to just redo my adjustment, like the clymer said to do, and i can't get the lock nut to stay tight, it just wants to spin. I even unloosened the lock nut on the handle bar lever, and turned the clutch cable bolt in towards the lever to let some slack out...nothings working right. Ahhhh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 If we are looking at the same diagram it is 10, 11, 12, and 13. It's that way on Bike Bandit anyway. PM RootRacing and he'll get you set up with one for $40 shipped I think it is. It's a really nice piece for the money and like I mentioned earlier it's cheap insurance. You've gotta get a Phillips screwdriver into the end of the stud part to hold it still while you tighten down the jamnut otherwise if you're doing that then it sounds like the threads are stripped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acroadam Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 If we are looking at the same diagram it is 10, 11, 12, and 13. It's that way on Bike Bandit anyway. PM RootRacing and he'll get you set up with one for $40 shipped I think it is. It's a really nice piece for the money and like I mentioned earlier it's cheap insurance. You've gotta get a Phillips screwdriver into the end of the stud part to hold it still while you tighten down the jamnut otherwise if you're doing that then it sounds like the threads are stripped. Ya I was holding it with a screw driver, and the locking nut kept turning like the bolt is stripped. Is my pressure plate suppose to push out a little when I pull the clutch lever in? And do I just need to buy the bolt and lockiing nut, and the short push rod? Can I just keep my old push rod? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 The pressure plate sounds like it's working as it should, or rather the components that move it are functioning properly. If you're really wanting to just buy certain parts then put up an ad in the wanted section and a sentence or two in the shoutbox. I'm sure someone has an adjuster in perfect working order that they'd give to you for the price of shipping. People do it all the time especially with small parts like that. But to answer your question what you need is the stud and nut technically. If you plan on running heavy duty springs in the future though then I'd go ahead and get the pancake bearing adjuster but that's just my preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acroadam Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 The pressure plate sounds like it's working as it should, or rather the components that move it are functioning properly. If you're really wanting to just buy certain parts then put up an ad in the wanted section and a sentence or two in the shoutbox. I'm sure someone has an adjuster in perfect working order that they'd give to you for the price of shipping. People do it all the time especially with small parts like that. But to answer your question what you need is the stud and nut technically. If you plan on running heavy duty springs in the future though then I'd go ahead and get the pancake bearing adjuster but that's just my preference. Ya I'm just trying to get it back together. I'm doing heavy mods next yr so I'll invest in the pancake adjuster then. Do you think if my actuator arrows line up on my engine case, then i should be able to pull the clutch in and move the banshee freely? That's what I'm confused about. I know I put my clutch on right, I followed the book, each step. Could there be slack in the line and still be lined up with the arrow? Thanks. Adam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Did you soak the plates in oil? Also if you are trying to move it with cover off/ no oil it won't "slip" enough to roll. Even if it were completly assembled with oil in trans it probably won't roll very easy in gear with clutch pulled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acroadam Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Did you soak the plates in oil? Also if you are trying to move it with cover off/ no oil it won't "slip" enough to roll. Even if it were completly assembled with oil in trans it probably won't roll very easy in gear with clutch pulled. You know I was thinking the samething cuz I noticed how much pressure the cover puts on everything...i didn't soak the plates cuz they were already saturated. Well I'll back out there and re-adjust everything, and turn it on. I did notice before I tore down everything, is that if I try kickstarting in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in, the banshee would roll like I wasn't pulling the clutch in. So what are signs of a overly stretched cable? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 try oiling them up any way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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