americanmusc1e Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 went drag racing yesterday and I lost by less than a bikes length (on a 300ft track) to a Raptor 700 GYTR My banshee has K&N with stock airbox(with the lid on), FMF fatty, Powercore II silencers, and a coolhead My carburetor floods real bad if I let it sit and my plugs might have been partially fouled.... next time I'm bringing extra plugs and rebuilding the carburetors before I go again..... then I'm going to check pull the airbox lid and check the jetting.....then I'm going to check the compression... what else can I do to squeeze a little more out of it??? What timing should I run?? What about switching from 93 pump gas to avgas (blue 100LL) and higher compression domes...... how much more compression can I run??? Reeds??? Should my banshee wheelie during launch??? right now I'm running 13/42 gearing and 20" 8-paddle GBC dirt devils launching in second (the track is sticky black gumbo) and it spins and it won't lift the front end.... if I launch in third it just bogs and spins... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotta_goatsfast Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 If you're after revenge for a 3 foot difference, make sure the quad is tuned properly and practice launching! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
252wheelieking Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 If you're after revenge for a 3 foot difference, make sure the quad is tuned properly and practice launching! X2....& you should never try to race somebody & expect to win with an engine that needs to be refreshed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06specialedition Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 IMO your launch means ALOT in a drag race. Maybe mess with your gearing or even try to launch in 2nd gear. A few things to consider though: Take your lid off or ditch the airbox all together. Get your jetting dialed in 100%. +4 to +5 on your timing is a good safe zone. I've always ran V-Force 3 reeds and have always had great luck with them. To save money Wildcard Racing can port your stock reed cages if you don't want to spend the money on VF3's. -Zach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
americanmusc1e Posted March 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 I got the bike 2 months ago.... this is the first time I've raced it.... and I'm still working on it and tuning it...... when I rebuild the carbs I'll check the jets that they have in them now and go from there....... I'm planning on drag racing regularly....... so I'm looking for mods that will give me an advantage without turning it into a drag only bike... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pasi S. Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 What size is your domes? What is your compression? You can mod your stock plate to +4 or close to that. You can also port your stock reed cages by yourself. Try 14-42 gearing and see if you can still launch in 2.nd gear. Perfect jetting is a MUST! ...and like said above take that lid off. Check and adjust if needed your rear suspension and tire pressure. It can make your traction better. Practice your launching and before you go, make sure that your engine is warm enough and push your throttle fully open a couple of times. That helped my friend to gain 0.2 in 500ft on dirt. LOL! -Pasi S. ...and YES, if you have the money, send your cylinders to have a good port job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
americanmusc1e Posted March 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 not sure on the size of the domes.... It was on when I bought the bike don't know the compression ratio and I'm going to do a compression test as soon as I can get a compression tester...... next week ANOTHER QUESTION...... I hope this isn't a dumb question... I have been pulling the clutch for every shift...... can I shift clutchless when I race???? will it hurt the transmission??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 banshees wont shift without using the clutch.. you "tune" is extremely important how could you even think that you were going to beat a bike that was probably running well witha bike thats sputtering and pissing out fuel>>> easy mods are ditch the box lid at least BUT you will need a k+n and a plate OR clamp on filters ( i dont like clamp ons much at all) the GBC's are killing you.. i have had stock banshees on dirt with STOCK tires wheelie up after they are tuned well... and also the same bike beat banshees with pHIAPES on them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Jackson Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 all things considered... i think its the guy on the raptor that should be ashamed and disappointed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700vflash Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 Banshee's will shift without the clutch, but not recommended, unless you have the overdrive gears. I know a guy that raced like that all the time and his tranny ended up getting stuck in gear, not sure what the outcome was with that though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 advancing your timing +4 degrees will help your low end however it will take away just a little from your top end. Running a smaller dome and higher octane fuel will give you more compression. if your spinning on launch with 8 blade paddles and in 2nd......you need a little more practice...or new paddles. Some paddles are just absolutely junk and dont' do shit.....but if i were you i'd try to continue to launch in 2nd but moving weight back just a little to gain more traction... (ie you want to practice until you can find that certain point on the bike where it wants to hoist the front end....however you don't want it to come completely up....that'll cost you launch when you have to feather the throttle\clutch to get the front down. What you want is to find that spot where it just BARELY want to hoist the front wheels......then move your butt about an in FORWARD......just enough weight on the front to keep her down but still enough weight on the back to keep her from over-slipping the rear paddles.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banshee Chad Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 As far as the carbs overflowing, ull want to adjust the float height in the bowl. And agreed, get rid of the airbox lid, and get a clamp on filter and pro flow adapter plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
americanmusc1e Posted March 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 I'm still working on my launch..... the first two times I still had my heavy 22" dirt devils on there..... then I threw on the sand devils and tried launching in 3rd.... then I went down to second.... that seems to be my best launch..... I just need to work on my seat position..... going to pull the carbs off RIGHT NOW.... also I tested for water in my tank with modified water paste and found I had a some (around here all the pump gas is E10 so the water mixes with the fuel.) so I'm definitely switching to avgas too (light blue 100LL) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
americanmusc1e Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 OK... I did a little work today.... pulled the carbs off....... I'll go through them this week did a compression test.... 140 on the left cylinder and 120 on the right...... does that sound right???? pulled the reeds and found a nasty porting job on the carburetor adapters...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyzstang Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 WOW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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