Nikds350 Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Ok so I am building a shee from the ground up. This thread is just for the motor. ok so what im looking at now... My big thing is reliability. this is going to be just a fun quad with a general overall quad idea in mind. Meaning it will be trail rode, drag raced, Mx raced etc etc. I just want it to be as mean as possible with out losing reliability. It must run on regular high test pump gas! so the ideas I have thus far 4 milll crank-long rod? (or tured and welded stock crank)? Just a mild port nothing special. bored .20 over (not sure what mm that is) Stock head shaved and modded? I do not like all the after market heads because of all the oring BS. plus if the motor could look stock on the outside- Awesome! stock transmission? timing plate not sure on what clutch to run...? v force reeds with 34 pwk's and pod filters. and not sure what I should do with the ignition to support such a motor! Any help/advice would be awesome!!! I am a complete Newb to the banshee. Not to the sport but def to the banshee. Im also very mechanically inclined so this is entirely my project and just like everything else im on a budget. With that said I have a bunch of parts already to start. But nothing major or something that I though I might change. Thanks for looking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonOfSand Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 (edited) I would say you are on the right track, like mentioned above, the porting will make or break the engine. Make sure you have an expert do it. I still have the oem clutch plates in mine, but with stiffer springs, that would work for what you are doing. Edited March 9, 2011 by SonOfSand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 When you decide which way you're going to go, give Kevin at Herr Jugs racing a call. He can take care of any of your porting needs and can get you any of the parts you need. If you're splitting the cases, I'd go ahead and do a 4mil setup. you would regret it later if you had the cases apart and didn't do it, if you can afford it. Match your pipes and carbs to whatever port job you end up going with. Kevin can go over this with you. Give him a call, his number is in my signature. - Jared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikds350 Posted March 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Well if you want to keep it simple... Get a stock stroke long rod crank Machined stock head to upp the compression Timing plate and set it at +4 V force reeds 34's with pods would def suffice Porting is a biggie... I wouldnt slack off at all on this... Get some pipes... T5's, CPI's, rocket 2's? ext... Depends on your riding preference... Moded shift start... moded shift shaft... If you want to keep it simple... then dont worry about the ignition once you get a timing plate and adavance your timing. all mentioned aboce is a decent mild moded banshee that has plenty of potential.... ok. what is a modded shift shaft? also whats your feeling of fmf sst pipes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikds350 Posted March 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 I would say you are on the right track, like mentioned above, the porting will make or break the engine. Make sure you have an expert do it. I still have the oem clutch plates in mine, but with stiffer springs, that would work for what you are doing. good to know that clutch will work that saves some money. When you decide which way you're going to go, give Kevin at Herr Jugs racing a call. He can take care of any of your porting needs and can get you any of the parts you need. If you're splitting the cases, I'd go ahead and do a 4mil setup. you would regret it later if you had the cases apart and didn't do it, if you can afford it. Match your pipes and carbs to whatever port job you end up going with. Kevin can go over this with you. Give him a call, his number is in my signature. - Jared thats what i figured. And yes when I say from scratch i mean just that. starting with the cases and thats it. so yeah i figured a 4mil was the way to go, just which one? a long rod or short rod?. so now...with a milled head, 66mm pistons? and a 4 mill crank should yeild how many CC's? and still be able to run pump gas? any opinions about a lighten flywheel? how to do it or where to send it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 66mm would be your last bore with a 4mil long rod,you want the long rod set,it creates less drag and sideload on the piston.So porting those jugs might be a waste if your looking at long term use.You want an all around motor go 4mil longrod,cut an chambered stock head from mull engineering for 4mil(stealth),v-force 3s,33mm pwks(good all around carb),FAST clutch,t-5s or r2s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastassbanshee96 Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 If you don't have anything against big bore and can afford if go with the serval cylinder. That way you have a great all around motor with a fresh bore and don't have to worry about porting. I just had one built but haven't gotten to drop it in the frame yet. But it's supposed to be a real conservative and reliable motor. Plus you have the perk of making 80+ hp on pump gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikds350 Posted March 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 66mm would be your last bore with a 4mil long rod,you want the long rod set,it creates less drag and sideload on the piston.So porting those jugs might be a waste if your looking at long term use.You want an all around motor go 4mil longrod,cut an chambered stock head from mull engineering for 4mil(stealth),v-force 3s,33mm pwks(good all around carb),FAST clutch,t-5s or r2s IC so 66mm = .080? because right now im at .020 over and im just planning on going .040 so whats that in mm? why would porting the jugs be a waste in this case? If you don't have anything against big bore and can afford if go with the serval cylinder. That way you have a great all around motor with a fresh bore and don't have to worry about porting. I just had one built but haven't gotten to drop it in the frame yet. But it's supposed to be a real conservative and reliable motor. Plus you have the perk of making 80+ hp on pump gas. that cylinder cost alot of money. I can get the bore, hone, pistons, gasket kit, and porting for 600$ since I already have the jugs. those cylinders are like 1400 with pistons. Thanks for the heaads up but that is out of my budget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GYTWYPT Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 IC so 66mm = .080? because right now im at .020 over and im just planning on going .040 so whats that in mm? why would porting the jugs be a waste in this case? that cylinder cost alot of money. I can get the bore, hone, pistons, gasket kit, and porting for 600$ since I already have the jugs. those cylinders are like 1400 with pistons. Thanks for the heaads up but that is out of my budget. I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong but I believe .040 over would = 65mm. He was saying it would be a waste to bore a set of cylinders if they where on there last bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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