jerzy609 Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 I just rebuilt my top end,it is now .40 over.i also have pro circuit pipes ,pro design head, 21 cc domes,v-force reeds,and about to advance my timing..do i have to get my crank welded and then trued??? please somebody give me some good info because i havent gone riding on the fresh rebuild yet but im dying to!! I just bought the bike a few months ago and i want to do some more mods.ty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 yes !! true and weld your crank !!. my bolt on shee with only 60 hours on it, had an untrue crank. so even the slightest mods can twist them. its cheap insurance. (and they do move around, so it has to be done) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerzy609 Posted February 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 What happens if i dont??my pistons will seize??I just put it together now i have to break it back down..I should get a new crank while im done their .Any suggestions on a good cvrank that ill get some hp out of?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06specialedition Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 Having the crank trued and welded would be one of the first things I would do. It is the luck of the draw...some cranks let go and some last forever with no issues. I've seen banshee's with only pipes and filters have a crank come apart. So for the piece of mind its well worth it IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 the pistons wont be timed right at TDC and BDC with each other and ignition timing will be out, when they go out of phase. it will start to run like poo, eventually. some people get away with it and some dont even notice it, but i would have T&W it before i put it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 My first crank let go with just pipes and filters done to the bike. It cost me over 700 bucks to fix all the damage and that was in 1991. I had to repair the crank and have it trued and welded, have the head domes remachined, bore the cylinders and new pistons and tore it apart and put it together myself. If you want to chance it go ahead, but if it lets go it will trash your new pistons and damage some of your other parts. If you send it to a good builder for trueing(first) and welding(second), he will be able to tell what it needs, but he might say it looks OK but you should rebuild it for peace of mind. It all depends on how old it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedd1 Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 As already stated, it should be one of the forst mods done. However, with your current mods, I would not tear it apart just to redo the crank. If you go back into the motor, have it done then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 While it may help the crank stay put, I dont not think it is worth going out of your way to do unless building a high HP engine. you cannot say for certain that if your crank would have not failed had it been welded, after the fact. if a crank is going to fail it will do so regardless of a couple tiny tig welds, which by nature are brittle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 i wouldnt tear it down on a fresh build unless the crank was not inspected for rod play and bearing runout,I have been testing every crank i can get my hands on and have yet to see an oem crank come out of phase,out of tru diffrent story i have seen that.The only crank i have ever seen out of phase was a hotrods about 8 yrs ago an we learned the hard way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastquad02blaster Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 Not trying to steal the thread, but....My bike has some mad vibrations on the low end of the rev range. Is that normal for a shee or do you think that something is wrong? Up high feels alright. It seems like it's mid range to low that it does it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 i wouldnt tear it down on a fresh build unless the crank was not inspected for rod play and bearing runout,I have been testing every crank i can get my hands on and have yet to see an oem crank come out of phase,out of tru diffrent story i have seen that.The only crank i have ever seen out of phase was a hotrods about 8 yrs ago an we learned the hard way i just checked my used OEM crank quick before i put it in the other day and it seems to agree with you. i got this hotrods crank that a bearing failed on that i am going to check just for shits and giggles. ill bet its fucked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 While it may help the crank stay put, I dont not think it is worth going out of your way to do unless building a high HP engine. you cannot say for certain that if your crank would have not failed had it been welded, after the fact. if a crank is going to fail it will do so regardless of a couple tiny tig welds, which by nature are brittle. Mine definetely failed because it was not welded. It had spread open and took out the thrust washers and then the rod big end bearing failed. If it had been welded it never would have spread and took out the bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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