zx10rcobra Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 (edited) I have a 2001 banshee that was stock, with the exception of a big K&N with no lid on the air box... it had 200 jets in it (stock). I just installed an FMF fatty exhaust with turbine core silencers, and when it came to rejetting it, i figured i'd rather go rich than lean. *280's seem to be the main jet to use when the nice weather comes around... but considering that its like 10deg outside right now, i put *300's in it. The machine ran well before i took the carbs off. I soaked them in carb cleaner and they're clean as a whistle, i threw the jets in... and put it together. With my luck, it ran horrible... no idle, horrible mid throttle, and no pull up top. I parked it... then i did some searching and realized that being the moron i am, i put the slides in opposite as i should have (so essentially, they were in backwards). I pulled them back out and installed them right. I then sync'd the carbs (only with the dot in the sight glass while i held the throttle at WOT) I did NOT look at them with the throttle in the closed position, nor did i check to make sure they're moving at the same time... as i probably should have. I took the plugs that were fouled from before, and cleaned them up good and put them back in. I started it up, and it ran clean at WOT (didn't ride it though, just blipping the throttle) However, i have the same issue still where it won't idle AT ALL and its blippy when i try to give it a tiny bit of gas to keep it running. So it seems as i didn't make any head way... what the hell? this thing ran decent when i took it apart... all that i messed with was swapping the main jet, and i did move the needle down to the 4th position. I tried the air screws, and got them close to where they should be (1.5 turns out)... also i tried to move the idle with the idle screws on the back side of the carb (still has the TORS)... it did nothing at all as i turned it in little amount at a time, then i reached a certain point and i tried to start it up and see if the idle moved, and the RPM's sky rocketed, then fell off and it still died. I'm pulling my hair out here... Any advice would be huge, greatly appreciated! thanks in advance Edited February 11, 2011 by zx10rcobra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 I have a 2001 banshee that was stock, with the exception of a big K&N with no lid on the air box... it had 200 jets in it (stock). I just installed an FMF fatty exhaust with turbine core silencers, and when it came to rejetting it, i figured i'd rather go rich than lean. *280's seem to be the main jet to use when the nice weather comes around... but considering that its like 10deg outside right now, i put *300's in it. The machine ran well before i took the carbs off. I soaked them in carb cleaner and they're clean as a whistle, i threw the jets in... and put it together. With my luck, it ran horrible... no idle, horrible mid throttle, and no pull up top. I parked it... then i did some searching and realized that being the moron i am, i put the slides in opposite as i should have (so essentially, they were in backwards). I pulled them back out and installed them right. I then sync'd the carbs (only with the dot in the sight glass while i held the throttle at WOT) I did NOT look at them with the throttle in the closed position, nor did i check to make sure they're moving at the same time... as i probably should have. I took the plugs that were fouled from before, and cleaned them up good and put them back in. I started it up, and it ran clean at WOT (didn't ride it though, just blipping the throttle) However, i have the same issue still where it won't idle AT ALL and its blippy when i try to give it a tiny bit of gas to keep it running. So it seems as i didn't make any head way... what the hell? this thing ran decent when i took it apart... all that i messed with was swapping the main jet, and i did move the needle down to the 4th position. I tried the air screws, and got them close to where they should be (1.5 turns out)... also i tried to move the idle with the idle screws on the back side of the carb (still has the TORS)... it did nothing at all as i turned it in little amount at a time, then i reached a certain point and i tried to start it up and see if the idle moved, and the RPM's sky rocketed, then fell off and it still died. I'm pulling my hair out here... Any advice would be huge, greatly appreciated! thanks in advance You probably need bigger pilot jets. And were you adjusting the idle speed with the screws on the carb tops? Also, put the clip back in the middle groove. My wife's bike has Fattys, a 2 into 1 air filter and is stock otherwise, she is running 300 mains, 30 pilots,air screws at 1.5, clip in the middle and it runs great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 Did you put the hose on between the carbs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx10rcobra Posted February 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 (edited) You probably need bigger pilot jets. And were you adjusting the idle speed with the screws on the carb tops? Also, put the clip back in the middle groove. My wife's bike has Fattys, a 2 into 1 air filter and is stock otherwise, she is running 300 mains, 30 pilots,air screws at 1.5, clip in the middle and it runs great. From what i understood, the main jets that i changed out only affect the fueling at 3/4 throttle to WOT. The thing is, i ran it before i took the carbs off, right after i put the pipes on... with the factory mains and pilots... etc, and it had a nice idle. I played with the cables up top, only when i tried to get both dots on the slides to line up in the windows on the carbs at WOT. By the way, the pass side carb top seems like its a little loose, and if i go to tighten it, it will not line up with the notch to screw the cap on... I just don't see how the pilots can be held responsible, when it idled fine with the pipes on with the factory pilots... before i pulled the carbs off. I suppose raising the needle one notch, does throw a bit more fuel at it... at any throttle position? thanks again... any other suggestions ?!?!? Edited February 11, 2011 by zx10rcobra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx10rcobra Posted February 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 Did you put the hose on between the carbs? I was trying to be careful when i put these things back on, probably the only things i got right... lol. i definately have the crossover hose on securely as well as the fuel lines. thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee8 Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 FMF pipes like a richer pilot jet, as do most after market pipes. Put some 27.5 pilots in, adjust the air mixture screws, and it will idle, if you adjust everything properly. Air mixture screws should be 1.5-2 turns open, but make sure both are adjusted the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx10rcobra Posted February 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 FMF pipes like a richer pilot jet, as do most after market pipes. Put some 27.5 pilots in, adjust the air mixture screws, and it will idle, if you adjust everything properly. Air mixture screws should be 1.5-2 turns open, but make sure both are adjusted the same. any idea if that would clean up that wicked miss i have when i give it partial throttle? well, i don't know exactly hoe to explain it... but it pulsates between maybe 2k and 3.5k rpm's while i barely hold the throttle in one place in an attempt to keep it running... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 Are the carb bowls switched? The one with the brass ball goes on the left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx10rcobra Posted February 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 Are the carb bowls switched? The one with the brass ball goes on the left. haha thank goodness, that makes one thing that i DON'T have to worry about, as i had the first carb back together before i took the 2nd one apart to clean it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06specialedition Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 I would ditch the tors asap IMO. You will have issues with it sooner or later. Hit up a site sponsor. You could unplug the little black box under your left front fender area...more in though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx10rcobra Posted February 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 do you guys think it could have been that drastic of a difference as far as the idle is concerned, by bumping that metering rod/needle one position richer? should i put those back on the 3rd clip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx10rcobra Posted February 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 (edited) uh oh... come to think of it, picturing the slides pulled out, looking down in there at the retainer clip that keeps the throttle cable in the notch where it belongs... could i have those clips in backwards...? for some reason, i am thinking that there is another hole in the base of the throttle slide, (the end of it where the screws that hold the needle in are located)... but i can't really remember! please disregard this thought if these 'holes' don't even exist!... but if they are there, should the holes be covered, or uncovered? Edited February 11, 2011 by zx10rcobra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee8 Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 any idea if that would clean up that wicked miss i have when i give it partial throttle? well, i don't know exactly hoe to explain it... but it pulsates between maybe 2k and 3.5k rpm's while i barely hold the throttle in one place in an attempt to keep it running... It should take care of that. You're starving it for fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 What year bike is this? If it is a 97 or newer, it might be the park brake rev limiter. Make sure your park brake is released, if it still does it, try unplugging the green/yellow wire coming from your clutch lever and tape it up. If that fixes it, go to the rear of the bike and find the CDIbox connector. On the bike side of the connector,NOT THE BOX SIDE, cut the green/yellow wire as close to the connector as you can, this will eliminate the park brake rev limiter. You should also unplug the TORS control box under the left side of the fuel tank, next to the coil. That will DISABLE the TORS system. If you get a TORS removal kit you still need to do this, but it will get rid of those big carb tops and make your bike easier to work on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbirdshee Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 uh oh... come to think of it, picturing the slides pulled out, looking down in there at the retainer clip that keeps the throttle cable in the notch where it belongs... could i have those clips in backwards...? for some reason, i am thinking that there is another hole in the base of the throttle slide, (the end of it where the screws that hold the needle in are located)... but i can't really remember! please disregard this thought if these 'holes' don't even exist!... but if they are there, should the holes be covered, or uncovered? you are correct there are holes in the slides down there. And they should be uncovered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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