Jump to content

Another carb adjustment question


The Grapist

Recommended Posts

So I have a 02 banshee, which is pretty much completely stock. I bought it with a cracked crank case, but i ended up buying all the parts and hiring someone to "swap the guts". It started and was running. But when I try to drive it, it bogs down a LOT. Quite hard to drive. Once the rpm's got up it sounded and ran great, long at the rpm was up. Also I noticed that 1 exhaust pipe had a little dribble of what looked like oil. After running it for a few days, I noticed it became harder to start. (4-5 kicks as opposed to 1). Also the "bog" got worse. Till one day it just quit on me and i havent been able to start it since. I looked online and I took apart the carb to clean it, and it looked spotless. Next step was to check the carbs if they were sync'ed. They are not. They do not have the TORS removal kit. I tried adjusting the screws on the top of it, but no matter how much I turn them, they just wont sync. Or even get better. Which leads me to think that I may be turning the wrong screws...(the only screws on the TORS are the ones I'm turning) Any thoughts? I'm kind of at a loss of what to do. I plan on gettin a TORS eliminator kit at some point, but how can I do this with the stock set up?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

welcome to the HQ!

 

sorry to say it but i have a couple of things that come to mind that could be a problem.....none of them are good. but we need some more info......was this JUST a guts swap? or did you have a top end rebuild done also?

 

 

1st. you said it had a bog at the low end. Is the crossover tube between the carbs in place? its a little black tube that goes between the carbs to allow the choke to function correctly.

 

2nd. You said that it bogged at low but ran hard up at the top.....that makes me think that it was running the clyinders lean. And when you lean out a 2-stroke you do serious damage to it. Im leaning more towards it leaning itself out (due to either a bad carb jetting or even a air leak in a seal somewhere). Since you said it slowly started to take more and mroe kicks to get it to fire up makes me think that it was wearing hard on those cylinders. And the worse part is that since it died while you were on it (shouldn't have been riding it with a problem like that) makes me think that you cooked the pistons........sorry bud but its time to pull the head off of the clylinders and take a look down inside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Couple things to do BEFORE you tear it down. First what do the plugs look like? Next, do a compression test. Tester must be same length as plug threads. Both plugs out, kick till gauge stops moving. Post results. Because you mentioned the oil dripping from exhaust makes me think that you didn't melt it down, BUT that doesn't mean your mechanic didn't FUBAR it. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=135591

Edited by Larry's Shee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Couple things to do BEFORE you tear it down. First what do the plugs look like? Next, do a compression test. Tester must be same length as plug threads. Both plugs out, kick till gauge stops moving. Post results. Because you mentioned the oil dripping from exhaust makes me think that you didn't melt it down, BUT that doesn't mean your mechanic didn't FUBAR it. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=135591

Make sure that when you're kicking the crap out of it, that you are holding the throttle wide open too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

welcome to the HQ!

 

sorry to say it but i have a couple of things that come to mind that could be a problem.....none of them are good. but we need some more info......was this JUST a guts swap? or did you have a top end rebuild done also?

 

 

Just a guts swap. I had to get a new clutch basket on it as the gear that was on the bottom of the original exploded and cracked the crank case. All new seals. No rebuild. The mechanic said that there wasnt any carbon build-up anywhere. Low hours.

 

1st. you said it had a bog at the low end. Is the crossover tube between the carbs in place? its a little black tube that goes between the carbs to allow the choke to function correctly.

 

2nd. You said that it bogged at low but ran hard up at the top.....that makes me think that it was running the clyinders lean. And when you lean out a 2-stroke you do serious damage to it. Im leaning more towards it leaning itself out (due to either a bad carb jetting or even a air leak in a seal somewhere). Since you said it slowly started to take more and mroe kicks to get it to fire up makes me think that it was wearing hard on those cylinders. And the worse part is that since it died while you were on it (shouldn't have been riding it with a problem like that) makes me think that you cooked the pistons........sorry bud but its time to pull the head off of the clylinders and take a look down inside.

 

 

1st yes the tube is in place

2nd "Running hard" is really just running normal. All engine noises sound hunky dory. I have a feeling it was bad jetting, but I havent a clue. No I probably should have been riding it, but it seemed like only a minor inconvience to me. But then again I'm no small engine guru. When it finally "died" it only bogged down till it shut off. No loud noises or anything like that

 

 

Larry's Shee I will do the test and post the results of it when I get a tester

 

Man...I hope i didnt toast the engine. That would really piss me off as I just fixed the damn thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...