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Posted (edited)

The358Bansh

are you on any of the merkur forums?

 

Negative, that's a customers car. I don't know if I could ever bring myself to own one of those. Hell, I'd take a turbo 2.3 in a mustang(gasp) before you would see me in one, and I'm die hard GM...

 

Thanks for the words guys. I got the rest of everything buttoned up last night after I noticed I made a mistake. I accidentally put the intake manifold boots on upside down, thus blocking part of the injector spray path. I ended up taking them off, building a thicker(.125") reed plate thingy, flipping them over and reinstalling and then redoing the crankcase pressure test. Welded up the coil mounts, and spritzed some paint on everything. I also managed to find a small trans leak this morning when I came in. Probably going to leave it for now, no sense in taking it out to fix that only to possibly have to take it out later. Fired it and took a little video tonight after ripping the front suspension off for powdercoat/rebuilding shocks.

 

I have a small list to get done before riding it. Bunch of little stuff now more than anything. Not 100% for sure if or when I am going to dyno it. I don't know if it would be a benefit as of now. I think I will work on the tune around the shops field and road to get it real close, then take it over to Janssen Motorsports and play for an afternoon. Weather has been all kinds of crap here as of late so I'm thinking the ice is done for the year. List is below, hopefully should be done for Friday so I can play this weekend...Later, Evan

 

Need to find key switch/install

Change tires over to dirt set

Check chain slack

Reassemble front suspension

Reroute front brake lines

Plastics

Build air filter to throttle body tubes

Clean filters

Build ground cable for engine/chassis/battery

Wire HIDs

and some other stuff that probably isn't that important...

 

Edited by THE358BANSH
Posted

Pure awesomeness, I love how smooth it sounds!

 

Also loving the fact you didn't abandon this incredible thread and are keeping everyone updated in detail till the end!beer.gif

Posted

Awesome buildand the shee sound great , very nice job planning it out and laying it out to look like a professional job.

Would you mind sharing your msq and tune files? Email me at kevinmaxey@msn.com thanks

Posted

Getting close on that beast. I would like to copy this EFI build some day. Keep up the good work. :cheers:

 

 

I just gotta tell you, the attention to detail and your craftsmanship is excellent.

Very impressed....keep up the good work and the updates!

 

 

Pure awesomeness, I love how smooth it sounds!

 

Also loving the fact you didn't abandon this incredible thread and are keeping everyone updated in detail till the end!beer.gif

 

Thanks for the words guys. There is a bunch of really smart people on this forum that I have learned a ton from. Now that I am not a dumbass anymore, I try and give back to keep the forum new and interesting. Banshees will always be the best! :headbang:

 

 

Awesome buildand the shee sound great , very nice job planning it out and laying it out to look like a professional job.

Would you mind sharing your msq and tune files? Email me at kevinmaxey@msn.com thanks

 

Depends on why you want them. The research and configuring process are the most tedious parts of the build. If you do not want to learn the how to and why of making the system/tune up, MegaSquirt/MicroSquirt or one of it's variants is not for you. If you are looking for a tuneup so you can toss it in and not have to do the legwork, you are in the wrong place and won't get any help from this guy. If you need help and/or have a few questions on configurations, I would be more than willing to try and be of assistance. Let me know...

 

 

Another good night of progress was made. With the help of MattSCES on the shout box last night we found a key that should work. It's not as nice as the LTR deal i wanted, but it was only 22 dollars instead of a minimum of 60 dollars for a used unit. Hopefully, it should be here on Friday so I can button this up. Tonight I got the front suspension reassembled. The color of the arms is crimson red and dang is it bright! Next was swapping out the studded tires for the summer set. I even had a chance to move the brake lines in the process. I tossed the plastic on temporarily so I could clean the shop for a bit and then decided to take off. Later, Evan

 

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Posted

No I don't want to cheat to get out of the work, I have been playing with MS for year and a half and have my 95 corsica with 3500v6 running MS2 with the extra code and my shee but i used the stock pick up and flywheel to send the signal. Was just wondering about the setting for the 36-1. Sorry the previous post sounded like I just wanted to steal, I just like to see what others do.

Posted

No I don't want to cheat to get out of the work, I have been playing with MS for year and a half and have my 95 corsica with 3500v6 running MS2 with the extra code and my shee but i used the stock pick up and flywheel to send the signal. Was just wondering about the setting for the 36-1. Sorry the previous post sounded like I just wanted to steal, I just like to see what others do.

 

No big deal, there is just a ton of people that think this is easy as you know with your prior experience. Were you using a HEI module to convert the signal using the stock flywheel? On to the subject at hand...

 

IIRC using anything above version 2.8 code gives the ability to use the "dual spark" function. This allows for a myriad of configuration using two sensors for input and thus being able to drive two separate outputs. For the 36-1 wheel, it was built using the generally accepted methods outlined in the MIcroSquirt manual for trying to obtain the cleanest signal possible. I turned the OD of the flywheel to 5.0000" on the lathe, knocking the stock pickup nodes off in the process. The ID of the trigger wheel was 5.0005" for a nice fit on the flywheel. After locating the trigger wheel on the flywheel with four small welds, I turned the OD of the trigger wheel again to verify it was concentric around the crankshaft centerline to maintain an even pickup gap.

 

The stock pickup on the stator was reused being as it's a variable reluctance deal. I just verified the signal with an oscilloscope to figure out rising edge or falling edge. Set the gap at .020", and double checked the sensor gap while rotating the flywheel. After that it's not too bad. Figure out the number of teeth after the missing tooth when piston #1 is at TDC and enter that, the skip 18 teeth to fire output #2. I am using the LS2 coils, so the MicroSquirt was converted to logic level outputs as described earlier in this thread. Last but not least everything was verified using the "tooth analyzer" firmware to double check functionality.

 

I don't know if that answers most of the fabrication side of things, but I'll list some links below that are just as important for nitty gritty info in the configuration state of things. Evan

 

http://www.microsquirt.info/dualspark.htm <---I'm using the 3A setup in here...

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/wheel.htm

http://www.megamanual.com/seq/coils.htm#ls2

http://www.microsquirt.info/tachref.htm

Posted

Yea building and wiring it was easy "aleast for me" the hard part is the configuring and tuning and all that. Yes is am using a HEI module with a GM DIS coil for now, it helps keeping any voltage spike from the coil away from MS. Plan on changing it to like yours or going with EDIS 4 module with the 36-1 and COP to get better signal resolution and more updated engine speed then what I get now.

 

Yes that answers fabrication side of things and setting for it which is better then get a msq file.Thanks Evan

Posted

Yea building and wiring it was easy "aleast for me" the hard part is the configuring and tuning and all that. Yes is am using a HEI module with a GM DIS coil for now, it helps keeping any voltage spike from the coil away from MS. Plan on changing it to like yours or going with EDIS 4 module with the 36-1 and COP to get better signal resolution and more updated engine speed then what I get now.

 

Yes that answers fabrication side of things and setting for it which is better then get a msq file.Thanks Evan

 

It's all good Kevin. If you need, shoot me a pm if you decide to do the conversion and I can help you out with some of the fab side if needed.

 

I had some time to mess around tonight. I was planning on getting the key, lights, and ground cable done. Unfortunately the key didn't show even though I told the guy on the phone I needed it for Friday, people are useless. I did manage to get the last two done in between fits of rage from not having a key. I didn't snap any pictures of the ground cable. It's a 6 gauge cable that runs down the left side of the chassis from the battery to the engine case bolts. It's needed because the engine in the Banshee is completely isolated on the engine mounts, and because I no longer use the factory 20 gauge ground on the stator plate.

 

Next was the lighting system. I had all ready ran the relay and two wires to the front of the chassis in one of the wiring steps before. The lights are cheapies from an autoparts store or implement shop. As they come, they are equipped with a 35 watt H3 style bulb. In the never ending quest of trying to spend money I don't have, I figured why not upgrade the lights since I have a battery now? The HID bulb directly replaces the stock H3 bulb in the housing while the ballasts control the alternating current to the new bulbs. I used a split collar and mounted the ballasts up front under the plastics then wired up one side to do a comparison. I snapped some pictures and then finished wiring and then took some more. In the last picture, the trailer to the right is 50' long and I know that the distance to the silo in the distance is 3 trailer lengths so 150'ish. Not bad for a headlight mod that costs less than a Benjamin. I don't know how long the kit will last, it's more of an experiment to see if/when it'll give up the ghost.

 

I have a few things to take care of in the morning, then it will be on to seeing if I die trying this thing out the first time. Not quite for sure how it will turn out, so wish me luck. :shrugani: Evan

 

 

 

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Posted

The weekends plans got screwed with over 10" of snow dumped on us. Today was the first decent day with no wind and double digit temperatures so I made my way out, still with no key. It runs and drives and I didn't kill myself on the maiden voyage, so that's a plus! I made a few short runs up and down the field to make sure nothing crazy was going to happen. The tune is lean but not bad for a first shot, and I was able to get a few good but short datalogs so I can readjust the tune for tomorrow. Should be a fun day...Evan :bolt:

Posted

The weekends plans got screwed with over 10" of snow dumped on us. Today was the first decent day with no wind and double digit temperatures so I made my way out, still with no key. It runs and drives and I didn't kill myself on the maiden voyage, so that's a plus! I made a few short runs up and down the field to make sure nothing crazy was going to happen. The tune is lean but not bad for a first shot, and I was able to get a few good but short datalogs so I can readjust the tune for tomorrow. Should be a fun day...Evan :bolt:

 

Man, this is just so cool and impressive. I NEED those lights, any way you could help put together a how-to kit? Damn that is BRIGHT! Keep it up, this is just awesome. :cheers::cheers:

 

AND, Id love to hook you up with some sort of EFI based grille for them laker plastics, let me know if you are interested.

Posted

ha ha what about LETHAL INJECTION!! in the grill

 

HID's are absolutely bad ass i stoped riding at night because i thought stuff was jumping out at me not sure what the hell was wrong with me!! BUT after i rode with the lil HID's i felt fine and rode quite a bit that night. those are nice headlight housings!

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