trusty2stroke Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 (edited) my brother just picked up a 03 banshee a few weeks ago and since he is off at college i said ill try to get his bike runnin right. the bike runs good on top end but it has a bad low end bog and wont idle at all even with the choke on. when its at low rpm's the left cylinder only fires every once in a while unless the choke is on. the bike currently has the following mods, white bros. boost bottle, fmf gold series with power core2 silencers, bored .30 over, and a ADA racing head. im a total noob when it comes to banshees, where should i start? thanks. Edited January 29, 2011 by trusty2stroke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesrtoys Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 ok well since you just bought it a few weeks ago start with a leak down test (their is a how to pinned in banshee repairs and mods). then go thuogh the carbs and make sure they are adjustited right (same jets,air screw same turns out).next is the tors system for the carbs removed?if yes then your carbs are more than likely out of syn. buy a synchonizer tool and make sure they are right. because if not then one slide might be to closed at idle making not run at low rpms. next get ridd of that boost bottle befor it ripps the intakes and get the stock crossover tube.buy some new plugs and do a plug chopp and see how your jetting is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trusty2stroke Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 ok well since you just bought it a few weeks ago start with a leak down test (their is a how to pinned in banshee repairs and mods). then go thuogh the carbs and make sure they are adjustited right (same jets,air screw same turns out).next is the tors system for the carbs removed?if yes then your carbs are more than likely out of syn. buy a synchonizer tool and make sure they are right. because if not then one slide might be to closed at idle making not run at low rpms. next get ridd of that boost bottle befor it ripps the intakes and get the stock crossover tube.buy some new plugs and do a plug chopp and see how your jetting is. i havent done a leak down test yet but the tors are still on, how does the tors come off? i cant get those things off for my life, do they just screw off like a regular carb cap? any idea of what jets should be in the carbs with the fmf pipes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesrtoys Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 get rid of the tors setup and buy and kit with carb caps,cable,and idle screws. and the tors comes off like a reg carb cap, but their is a bracket on the side of the carbs that needs to be removed in order to spin the cap free.a phillips screw holds it on.if you don't want to get rid of the tors then you can mess with the screws on top of the tors for idle.but don't just go screwing them in the carbs need to be in syn. i don't know about fmf but with my t5's with r close and k-n clamp on filters, and stock head at 60 over with stock carbs. i was at 30 pilot 290 main and 2nd clip from bottom of needle. air screw 1.5 out. about 780ft above sea level Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trusty2stroke Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 get rid of the tors setup and buy and kit with carb caps,cable,and idle screws. and the tors comes off like a reg carb cap, but their is a bracket on the side of the carbs that needs to be removed in order to spin the cap free.a phillips screw holds it on.if you don't want to get rid of the tors then you can mess with the screws on top of the tors for idle.but don't just go screwing them in the carbs need to be in syn. i don't know about fmf but with my t5's with r close and k-n clamp on filters, and stock head at 60 over with stock carbs. i was at 30 pilot 290 main and 2nd clip from bottom of needle. air screw 1.5 out. about 780ft above sea level ok thanks, that helped a whole bunch. how will the boost bottle rip the intake?, im just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesrtoys Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 it will ripp where it connects.i just had to replace my intake. i don't really know why they ripp with the boost bottle but they do. i went with a intake from charoit with a built in crossover tube. really looks nice and gives you room to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trusty2stroke Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 get rid of the tors setup and buy and kit with carb caps,cable,and idle screws. and the tors comes off like a reg carb cap, but their is a bracket on the side of the carbs that needs to be removed in order to spin the cap free.a phillips screw holds it on.if you don't want to get rid of the tors then you can mess with the screws on top of the tors for idle.but don't just go screwing them in the carbs need to be in syn. i don't know about fmf but with my t5's with r close and k-n clamp on filters, and stock head at 60 over with stock carbs. i was at 30 pilot 290 main and 2nd clip from bottom of needle. air screw 1.5 out. about 780ft above sea level i checked out the carbs today, they seem to be in sync and the jetting is a 280 main and a 25 pilot(is this the right jetting?). i took off the boost bottle and put a rubber tube in to connect both intakes. also each cylinder has a diffrent spark plug the left has a br8es and the right has a br9es, is this effecting anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUILDER Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 i checked out the carbs today, they seem to be in sync and the jetting is a 280 main and a 25 pilot(is this the right jetting?). i took off the boost bottle and put a rubber tube in to connect both intakes. also each cylinder has a diffrent spark plug the left has a br8es and the right has a br9es, is this effecting anything? Well the B9 is a colder spark plug than the B8 it actually should run fine with them in there but it would be a good idea to get B 8 plugs in both sides. Your jettiing sounds about right but that also depends on your elevation. The 25 pilot is stock but with just pipes on it and nothing else that jet should work fine. I would put a new set of plugs in it and see how it runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trusty2stroke Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 i did a compression check, there is about 160psi in each cylinder and i replaced both plugs. i still cannot get it to idle or keep the left cylinder running at low rpm's. i dont know what else to do. any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesrtoys Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 ok well first what kind of gas are u running?because with that much comp u should be running race fuel. and second try to switch the spark plug boots and see if the problems goes to the other side. and try a 27.5 for a pilot jet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trusty2stroke Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 ok well first what kind of gas are u running?because with that much comp u should be running race fuel. and second try to switch the spark plug boots and see if the problems goes to the other side. and try a 27.5 for a pilot jet. it runs 93octane mixed at 32:1 on yamalube now, i didnt know that was alot of compression for a banshee. i took a look at the spark plug caps and the left cap had some debris in there so i cleaned it out and sprayed some silicone in it and the spark seemed better. im not gonna mess with it anymore until i get some race fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 i think i would start by simply putting the correct spark plugs in it and THOROUGHLY cleaning the carbs rather than jumping to conclusions with it needing a leak down test. make sure to blow out ALL passages with compressed air and sync them. i believe there is a guide in the jetting forum. someone who knows mikunis better will need to chime in on the jetting. then there is a little black box next to the coil. unplug it if it is plugged in. 93 octane should be ok with 160psi but is on the highside. you could splash in a bit of 110 for safety. the vibration from the boost bottle flapping around is what causes the intakes to crack. DO NOT just go randomly replacing parts and jets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesrtoys Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 i would do the leak down test for the fact that he just bought it,and he doesn't really know what was done and when. what if he gets it running and has a small leak. that small leak can cost more money down the road. and jet are cheap and you will always need different ones. I would buy a few bigger jets and try them for the cold. plus get matching plugs it will make a big diffence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 i would do the leak down test for the fact that he just bought it,and he doesn't really know what was done and when. what if he gets it running and has a small leak. that small leak can cost more money down the road. and jet are cheap and you will always need different ones. I would buy a few bigger jets and try them for the cold. plus get matching plugs it will make a big diffence. While it is a useful test and agree should probably be done, especially with an unknown engine, it is not the end all be all of tests. Especially when where are several other things to check first, things that are far more likely and easier to do. air leaks will also show up on the plugs or a bike that seems to be impossible to jet. Eliminate the obvious variables before assuming the worse. The fact he just bought and doesnt really know what was done and when mean he really should NOT be just changing stuff just to see what it will do, jets included. Just regurgitating information you have read doesnt cut it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesrtoys Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 (edited) well assuming he bought the bike when it was still jetted for summer will make him lean right now. thats why i say get bigger jets. but i could be wrong. i'm just trying to help. and who ever owned it befor sure didn't know what they were doing or it would have matching plugs. if they couldn't get the plugs right what makes you think they got the jetting right. and jetting a bike is not the worse thing. Edited February 1, 2011 by bansheesrtoys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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