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Cylinder torqueing


Mister T

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If I understand you right, you'll add 6" of leverage to the torque wrench. So, simple math explains that if you have a torque wrench that measures 18" from handle to center of socket and you want to exert 20 ft/lbs of force onto that socket, you will need to apply 13.3 pounds of force to the handle. Now, when you add 6", the torque wrench will read false to what the true torque value is, because you are no longer reading the pivot point (or center). So, when the torque wrench reads 20 ft/lbs, you actually applied 26.6 ft/lbs to the nut. Now, if I'm reading this correctly, you say to add 2 additional ft/lbs. So, you would actually be applying 29.3 ft/lbs to the nut. If I misread you then my bad, but it'll still affect the OP.

 

Now, my torque wrench measures 20.5" from center of nut to center of handle. I use a piece I made by cutting a 10mm box end wrench and welding an old 1/2" drive socket to it. From the center of the box wrench to the center of the socket drive is 2". When I apply 20 ft/lbs to the torque wrench, I exert 11.7 lbs on the handle. (20x12/20.5= 11.7) now I add 2" to the distance between center of my handle to center of nut. So, how much pressure will I apply to the handle? Roughly 10.7 lbs (11.7x20.5/22.5= 10.66). How will I know when I've torqued it to said force? Well the torque wrench will need to read (or click at depending on your style) 18.3 ft/lbs (10.7/12x20.5= 18.279).

 

Its always best to use a lubricant on clean threads to get a proper reading, also. ARP has awesome stuff, but for most guys any white oil or motor oil will get you close enough.

 

EDIT: I should add that I used a 10mm box wrench because I use ARP 12 point nuts on my 421 serval. You will use a 12mm if its a regular 8mm nut.

 

Thank you, you just saved me alot of typing

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