Mister T Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 (edited) Just wondering how you guys are managing to torgue and tighten the 2 front cylinder nuts that are under the exhaust flanges? Special/modified wrench? Edited January 15, 2011 by Mister T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WynoT Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 Just wondering how you guys are managing to torgue and tighten the 2 front cylinder nuts that are under the exhaust flanges? Special/modified wrench? Go with feeling, take your wrench, test torque on the torqued one and apply the same force. It's not the best way to do it for sure but you don't have to buy special tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 (edited) Tighten it up until it gets really tight... tighten it a little more, then when it gets really easy to turn you've stripped the threads. Back it off a quarter turn after this point and you're good to go. lol Just do your best to match the ones you can easily reach and you should be fine. Edited January 15, 2011 by BigRed350x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesrtoys Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 just buy the $14 motion pro wrench that is made for it. you can get one from rocky mountain, denis kirk, or any mac tool dealer. i got mine from a mac tool dealer that comes to my shop for $14 even. it has a 12mm on one side and a 14mm on the other and in the middle of the wrech a place for a 3/8 torque wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister T Posted January 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Tighten it up until it gets really tight... tighten it a little more, then when it gets really easy to turn you've stripped the threads. Back it off a quarter turn after this point and you're good to go. lol Just do your best to match the ones you can easily reach and you should be fine. Thanks for the "red"neck how-to bigred lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 i used a 3/8 torque wrench and for those ill put a 3in extension on and a shorty socket and i can manage to squeak the socket on carefully... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 I just use a wrench on all my cylinder bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 You could always use "the force" to tighten the nut. Last time I tried this I gave myself an aneurysm and had to have brain surgery, but I am pretty sure I almost got that nut to turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister T Posted January 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 You could always use "the force" to tighten the nut. Last time I tried this I gave myself an aneurysm and had to have brain surgery, but I am pretty sure I almost got that nut to turn. gave it a try.......all i got was a headache and a nosebleed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZBansheeMan Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Just use a wrench and the German torque specs...."GudenTite" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) what....none of you guys have teh specialty clicker-style elbow? shit mines good for any torque i need! haha but the last time i tried to torque over 200lbs it took a lot of grunting and groaning...and a shart to get the final click..... Edited January 18, 2011 by Jereme6655 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 +1 on the 3/8" torque wrench and 3" extension with short socket. Of course I did mine out of the frame so it was naturally easier but you just gotta have a feel for it. Use a strong hand to monitor the slippage of the socket on the nut so you don't bust your knuckles, and a careful hand to keep from doing a backflip if the socket does slip off. In short, it's a tedious process with a torque wrench but if you want to do it the correct way that's how. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselhead Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 +1 on the 3/8" torque wrench and 3" extension with short socket. Of course I did mine out of the frame so it was naturally easier but you just gotta have a feel for it. Use a strong hand to monitor the slippage of the socket on the nut so you don't bust your knuckles, and a careful hand to keep from doing a backflip if the socket does slip off. In short, it's a tedious process with a torque wrench but if you want to do it the correct way that's how. ok , go buy some cheap end wrenches cut the box end off which is the closed end and weld a 6 inch extension to the side of the wrech u cut off then add about 2 foot lbs to the 20 that is called for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotta_goatsfast Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 ok , go buy some cheap end wrenches cut the box end off which is the closed end and weld a 6 inch extension to the side of the wrech u cut off then add about 2 foot lbs to the 20 that is called for If I understand you right, you'll add 6" of leverage to the torque wrench. So, simple math explains that if you have a torque wrench that measures 18" from handle to center of socket and you want to exert 20 ft/lbs of force onto that socket, you will need to apply 13.3 pounds of force to the handle. Now, when you add 6", the torque wrench will read false to what the true torque value is, because you are no longer reading the pivot point (or center). So, when the torque wrench reads 20 ft/lbs, you actually applied 26.6 ft/lbs to the nut. Now, if I'm reading this correctly, you say to add 2 additional ft/lbs. So, you would actually be applying 29.3 ft/lbs to the nut. If I misread you then my bad, but it'll still affect the OP. Now, my torque wrench measures 20.5" from center of nut to center of handle. I use a piece I made by cutting a 10mm box end wrench and welding an old 1/2" drive socket to it. From the center of the box wrench to the center of the socket drive is 2". When I apply 20 ft/lbs to the torque wrench, I exert 11.7 lbs on the handle. (20x12/20.5= 11.7) now I add 2" to the distance between center of my handle to center of nut. So, how much pressure will I apply to the handle? Roughly 10.7 lbs (11.7x20.5/22.5= 10.66). How will I know when I've torqued it to said force? Well the torque wrench will need to read (or click at depending on your style) 18.3 ft/lbs (10.7/12x20.5= 18.279). Its always best to use a lubricant on clean threads to get a proper reading, also. ARP has awesome stuff, but for most guys any white oil or motor oil will get you close enough. EDIT: I should add that I used a 10mm box wrench because I use ARP 12 point nuts on my 421 serval. You will use a 12mm if its a regular 8mm nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesrtoys Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 ok , go buy some cheap end wrenches cut the box end off which is the closed end and weld a 6 inch extension to the side of the wrech u cut off then add about 2 foot lbs to the 20 that is called for Why not just buy the right wrench for $14? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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