patarol Posted January 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 to me that trans mod is an absolute must do. and your right its better to do it all now even if you have to wait i tried to "dune" my 485 on alky and it was an absolute handfull i ended up taking the motor out and going full drag with it. in the dunes i ran a 1/ 2-5 duneable it was fun but very hard to control at times. a billet basket is a must also i highly recomend the mattoon basket if your pocket book will allow a hinson billet w straights works excellent or straights and the matton is a good second choice also TZ bearings ont he crank are a good idear that would be a nearly bullet proof bottom end. I wil do those mods to the tranny, TZ bearing is already on the crank. A hinson basket it wil be then. i want a good strong engine when i`m first doing this build. I see there is some moded shift drums/star with bearing on, on Ebay i get me one of thise. Thanks for som good inputs on the tranny, just what i needed :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patarol Posted January 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Oh.. and one more question, is the cheetah 485 a big bore? should i get big bore pipes? and is it smal flange or big flange? what pipes to run on this? want inframes. so far i`m thinking shearers but think CPI wil be good to... help me decide please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Matt Shearer himself will tell you he designed his small bore pipes for anything under the 535 Cheetah Motor. You've more than likely got a small flange, but measure to be sure. Since you are looking at inframes, two names I'd try. Sniper (Site sponsor, high quality) or CPI. I run a drag bike, have only made one pass with his out of frame pipe, so I can't comment on performance. I can comment on quality. It's top notch and impressive...flat out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 I wouldn't give WCR a dollar of my money after the "EXTREME" transmission fiasco, etc. Did you post up anything on your WCR fiasco anywhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 No sir... Just read a TON of issues...backlog, and hear a few builders talking about how it effected them as well. I thought about one myself, the offer to convert one from a traditional dunable done by him was enticing. Then I thought about it...never have I had any shifting issues and all my bike is used for is drag racing. Why spend more money to fix what isn't broken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wacko2000 Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 I can't see this bike not needing a override, I have a 4mil stock cylinder bike and I tried every tranny mod under the sun. HJR even cut me a tranny and that didnt work at all, I ended up with a override. I personally have a extreme from WCR, they had some major bugs to work out and we did not install mine till we where totally assured and certain that everything was fixed, Sleeper06 sent mine back to WCR they fixed what needed to be fixed, sent it back out and Ive been abusing it since. My bike shifts like butter now I could be wrong with the override theory or maybe Im just bitter bc guys with 100+hp are running stock trannies and Im only at 85ish and Im stuck with a override and it is NOT the best for my application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Joe, I've heard/seen it go both ways.... Guys with 4 mil cubs saying they shift fine and guys with ported stock stroke/stock cylinder saying they don't shift for shit. I can tell you with a mint stock trans my 4 mil cub shifted like absolute shit...and I should've put one in. NO brainer for my 10 mil drag bike but it's purpose built. I understand setup is key...but Joe I know how meticulous you are with your stuff, setup isn't even a question in my mind.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 I was one of the lucky ones that had a stock tranny 421 Cub on gas that shifted fine (as fine as s Banshee can shift, anyway), even with a lockup. Having the eccentric adjuster on the shift shaft set correctly is key. As far as the billet basket; you can't go wrong with the Magnum/SRP billet basket. I've ran them in several engines without issue. It is much cheaper than the Hinson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundish2800 Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 A 485 has small flange at least the set that i own do. You should be alright with cpis. Thats going to be a mean ass trail bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patarol Posted January 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Thanks again on inputs! werry helpfull! What would be the diference betven the two, CPI or Shearers? I`m interessted in a good low to mid push, know the valves do that job but when they are wide open i gues its high rev pipes that would be great?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 thats weird now i would imagine that peoples idears on a trans that works may differ i mean it shifts great at least how a stock trans shifts well how is that? cause the stock banshee trans's i have been around after about 2-3 passes start misshifting like dog shit. the false neutral, flat out wont shift, or hop a shift what i have found with the trans that i do is i replace EVERYTHING for the shifter that is NEW shaft, spring, alignment pin bla bla everything thats PART of the shifter. the stock modded trans WONT shift IF you let OFF the throttle sometimes times on full throttle runs without the clutch. most people thought thats how they had to do it they also WONT shift full throttle high rpm IF you DONT use the clutch now i mean you dont have to pull the clutch all the way in and count to 20 just a quick blip just enough to take the load off the dogs and they go right to the next gear. my trail bike is an honest 85+hp and wit the stock modded trans it ALWAYS shifts i can hold the throttle wide open through all gears. ( but damn its hard to to as its trying to throw mee right off the back stock length swingarm geo) i dont know how other people do them or how other places explain how to use it.. so i dont know. NO you wont HAVE to have an override on a 485 with a properly modded trans it will shift very nice. now on a stock trans even a brand new all oem never been in a bike trans it would false neu, and missshift after about 2-3 full throttle drag runs or after it got a lil hot. even with very nice high dolla oils. i personally recomend a stock modded trans in pretty much ANY build that requires you to split the cases. build it right the first time unless you like being pissed or that guy floping over the handle bars cause your bike went into a false neutral. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 i'd also say NO on the hinson std billet basket. the 485 properly set up will blow the backing plate clean off a hinson. the cusions are too squisshy and the bolts that hold the backing plate on are to small plus the backing plate itself is way to weak of a material. get a basket with 5/16 OR 8mm bolts and a cromoly OR tool steel OR stock modded backing plate. the matton is an excellent choice and its budget friendly.! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 thats weird now i would imagine that peoples idears on a trans that works may differ i mean it shifts great at least how a stock trans shifts well how is that? cause the stock banshee trans's i have been around after about 2-3 passes start misshifting like dog shit. the false neutral, flat out wont shift, or hop a shift what i have found with the trans that i do is i replace EVERYTHING for the shifter that is NEW shaft, spring, alignment pin bla bla everything thats PART of the shifter. the stock modded trans WONT shift IF you let OFF the throttle sometimes times on full throttle runs without the clutch. most people thought thats how they had to do it they also WONT shift full throttle high rpm IF you DONT use the clutch now i mean you dont have to pull the clutch all the way in and count to 20 just a quick blip just enough to take the load off the dogs and they go right to the next gear. my trail bike is an honest 85+hp and wit the stock modded trans it ALWAYS shifts i can hold the throttle wide open through all gears. ( but damn its hard to to as its trying to throw mee right off the back stock length swingarm geo) i dont know how other people do them or how other places explain how to use it.. so i dont know. NO you wont HAVE to have an override on a 485 with a properly modded trans it will shift very nice. now on a stock trans even a brand new all oem never been in a bike trans it would false neu, and missshift after about 2-3 full throttle drag runs or after it got a lil hot. even with very nice high dolla oils. i personally recomend a stock modded trans in pretty much ANY build that requires you to split the cases. build it right the first time unless you like being pissed or that guy floping over the handle bars cause your bike went into a false neutral. My point was that the 421 Cub didn't hinder shifting anymore than when it was stock. Of course Banshees shift like crap bone stock. So.....it shifted great (for a Banshee). I wish they shifted like a YFZ....those are awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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