patarol Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 After 3 years standing teard down in the garage i finaly going to build the cheetah 485 powervalve engine. but just a quick input from you banshee builders needed: I just wonder what absolutly tranny mods you think i should do when putting this topend kit on? no override tranny. gonna ride trails and other funn driving. no dragging, just funn driving. should i get strait cut gears and lockup? have a barnet clutch in now, will it hold? sorry my bad english i`m from Norway. thanks for your help!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 Have the transmission modded to shift better. Kevin Herr @ HJR does a tranny mod that will make it shift MUCH better than stock. However, nothing is as good as an override, period. You specifically said no on that. I would get a heavy duty clutch kit, billet basket and a pancake bearing. Otherwise, you don't need a set of straight cut gears, way overkill on a trail bike. I don't think you'll need a lockup either, just some good stiff springs. You're about to triple or quadruple the power of your motor. Is your chassis/suspension up to snuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 (edited) 485 is a beast you will absolutely need a modded trans and NO not a shift mod or bearings on the shaft or bla bla bla you will need the gears cut and a shift star and shift shaft mod done after that it will shift like a dream,. an override is great for drag racing but these mods done to the stock trans are for all the rest of us. a lockup is a decent idear but not really really needed if you dont mind a stiff clutch hand a better clutch would be needed. i personally like the driveline perf. HD clutch on sleezebay. the springs are stiff as hell but you might be able to stagger them with 15%'s and be ok. a lockup wont hold your clutch at lower rpm's so a locker with stock springs dosent work in the trails and normal riding. unless you ride around at 8000 rpm to 10,500 all the time.. i do this mod HJR does it adn WCR offers them also i believe wcr's is a micropolished trans also a lot of guild builders know about this style of trans. they work very well i believe they should be part of a complete engine package. Edited January 15, 2011 by camatv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabansheematt Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 After 3 years standing teard down in the garage i finaly going to build the cheetah 485 powervalve engine. but just a quick input from you banshee builders needed: I just wonder what absolutly tranny mods you think i should do when putting this topend kit on? no override tranny. gonna ride trails and other funn driving. no dragging, just funn driving. should i get strait cut gears and lockup? have a barnet clutch in now, will it hold? sorry my bad english i`m from Norway. thanks for your help!!!! You won't need any trans mods to run it..I ran mine for 2 yrs before I got a cut trans. A duneable override is nice. But you'll be ok without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 I wouldn't give WCR a dollar of my money after the "EXTREME" transmission fiasco, etc. Matt...why did you get a cut trans if it ran fine on a stocker (Not being a smart ass, just asking...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 Side cut your gears, shift star mod, roller bearing from cascade w/ stock spring, and shift shaft mod. You'll be good to go on the transmission department. I'd get a billet basket and some HD springs as well. The straight-cut gears would be overkill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patarol Posted January 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 Thank you very mutch for your replys. I gues a better shift star and shift drum wil be put in then, the clutch i have now is a barnet hd so gues i give it a try, easy to mod that later. want to do the right tranny mods when the case is split. pancake already bought. swing arm i wonder how long i can get for my kind of driving? +4" or +6"? better shocks Øhlins. +2 A-arms are the mods I`m getting on the driveline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabansheematt Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 I wouldn't give WCR a dollar of my money after the "EXTREME" transmission fiasco, etc. Matt...why did you get a cut trans if it ran fine on a stocker (Not being a smart ass, just asking...) I got one for hill climbing.. The hills we ride on are very steep, and alot of times have no more then a 5ft run. Its just easier to upshift on a steep hill with the overide. I never had any issues with the stock trans, I just like the overide better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 your gonna run a 485 pv motor in the trails? wow....should be...interesting hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 I run a modded shift star, shift pro roller detent arm but stock spring, modded shift shaft and this last time around i cut my trans. It is about as good as it gets i think without going to an override. I also run RZ shift forks, but i really dont believe they made that big of a difference if at all. Here is a link to my post showing what i cut http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137478&st=0&p=1187177entry1187177 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patarol Posted January 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 I run a modded shift star, shift pro roller detent arm but stock spring, modded shift shaft and this last time around i cut my trans. It is about as good as it gets i think without going to an override. I also run RZ shift forks, but i really dont believe they made that big of a difference if at all. Here is a link to my post showing what i cut http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137478&st=0&p=1187177entry1187177 What do you gain cutting that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 What do you gain cutting that? Easier to shift. The gears have more rotational time to engage with the next gear. Instead of having 1/6th the time/area to engage they now have 1/3rd the time/area Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patarol Posted January 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Easier to shift. The gears have more rotational time to engage with the next gear. Instead of having 1/6th the time/area to engage they now have 1/3rd the time/area that Cutting i can do my self, what gears to cut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 that Cutting i can do my self, what gears to cut? You can do it yourself, but its a lot easier to just send them out and get it done. If someone with access to a mill does them, all the cuts will be perfectly square a lot cleaner than doing it yourself. Basically just cut the gears that have 6 dogs on the sides of them. (Can't remember which ones they are off the top of my head). You will have to disassemble your trans to do this though. I know Kevin at HJR can do this for you. Give him a call. His number is in my signature. - Jared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 to me that trans mod is an absolute must do. and your right its better to do it all now even if you have to wait i tried to "dune" my 485 on alky and it was an absolute handfull i ended up taking the motor out and going full drag with it. in the dunes i ran a 1/ 2-5 duneable it was fun but very hard to control at times. a billet basket is a must also i highly recomend the mattoon basket if your pocket book will allow a hinson billet w straights works excellent or straights and the matton is a good second choice also TZ bearings ont he crank are a good idear that would be a nearly bullet proof bottom end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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