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THINK ITS time to get money back


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did you check to make sure it was true before install ?

 

I didn't check shit. I shouldn't have to pay $700 for a crank that isn't ready to run. It fucked up and I sent it back. They "fixed" it and we ran it again. Then it blew up. I am not an engine builder. I don't build motors, port them or know anything other than how to run the fuck out of them. If Vito's or any other crank manufacturer is sending out cranks that are not up to spec, that should be on them. I do not have the tools or know-how to check cranks that should be perfect from the manufacturer. Any argument against that is garbage and wouldn't be accepted in any other line of purchasing.

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I strongly disagree.

 

If they were sending you a stock crank to rebuild a stock motor...you'd have my support 100%.

 

When you're taking a motor that makes -/+ 30 HP stock and doubling, tripling or quadrupling that...that nature of things change.

 

Do you check squish after assembling a motor? Do you check compression? Do you check compression ratio?

 

How do you know what you've got if you're just throwing it together?

 

Again..if this was a stock build, like replacing the air filter in your car....then I'd agree with you 100%.

It's not, this is aftermarket, and everything should be checked.

 

Argue till you're blue in the face Tyler, but any competent builder on this board or any other, in any other line of building engines would disagree with you.

 

You think these guys that build 100K Nascar motors should have to check every square inch of what they put together for a race? No, your 700 dollar crank is a drop of piss in a bucket compared to what they put together...but I promise they check every square millimeter of that car, it's motor, etc.

 

Just sayin bro. Stock motor and cases weren't designed to handle a stroker crank, bigger pistons, after market cylinders, etc.

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did you check to make sure it was true before install ?

 

I had three on my buddies bench, I watched him check two...mine and alcoholbanshee's. I run a cub, he runs a twister.

I can't promise you the exact number on each (I know it was less than .003, I think they were both under .002 but I'd be lying if I said I remember for sure or I wrote it down).

They were both checked before and after the TZ was installed, and the outer pins were welded all the way around.

 

I didn't see him unbox the third...but he said he's bought about 10 of the Vitos 10 mils, all were less than .003 and were ready to run out of the box.

 

Did any of us check them in the cases? No....that I've never done.

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I strongly disagree.

 

If they were sending you a stock crank to rebuild a stock motor...you'd have my support 100%.

 

When you're taking a motor that makes -/+ 30 HP stock and doubling, tripling or quadrupling that...that nature of things change.

What changes? The tolerances should be the same regardless of engine HP, stroke, bore etc. Just because you're making more or less power doesn't give the crank builders a pass on quality.

 

Do you check squish after assembling a motor? Do you check compression? Do you check compression ratio?

 

How do you know what you've got if you're just throwing it together?

No, I don't. That is what my builder is for. I pay my builder do the initial set up on my motors. Cameron has built my last two and my brothers last two motors. He has always pre-assembled them before I had them. Again, that's why I pay a builder to build my shit, because I am not one.

 

Again..if this was a stock build, like replacing the air filter in your car....then I'd agree with you 100%.

It's not, this is aftermarket, and everything should be checked.

 

Argue till you're blue in the face Tyler, but any competent builder on this board or any other, in any other line of building engines would disagree with you.

So you think that if you order a cold air intake for a vehicle and spend $300+ on it, that if it doesn't fit it's OK because it wasn't stock? Fuck that. If anything, it should fit better because it is considered an UPGRADE, just like the aftermarket cranks should be.

 

You think these guys that build 100K Nascar motors should have to check every square inch of what they put together for a race? No, your 700 dollar crank is a drop of piss in a bucket compared to what they put together...but I promise they check every square millimeter of that car, it's motor, etc.

 

Just sayin bro. Stock motor and cases weren't designed to handle a stroker crank, bigger pistons, after market cylinders, etc.

Apples to oranges. Those guys building those motors put them together all the time and of course they check them. Should the driver or owner of the car have to double check the motor builders work? I think not. That doesn't even make any sense. Otherwise, the owners and drivers of the cars would assemble the motors themselves.

 

Maybe stock cases weren't but billet ones were. Explain my junk ass broken 18mm Crankworks crank? My 18mm DM was assembled completely when I got it by Cameron. Should I have to pull it apart and double check it?

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The Vitos crank that I ran was complete junk. I ran it, and it seperated. I sent it back to Vitos, they pressed it back together, and trued it once again. I then took it to Jeffs where I witnessed him check the trueness. My squish was spot on. It ended up seperating three times with less than 10 hours on the entire motor. As far as I'm concerened they are junk and I'll never use another one from them again. There customer service was good though!

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No, I don't. That is what my builder is for. I pay my builder do the initial set up on my motors. Cameron has built my last two and my brothers last two motors. He has always pre-assembled them before I had them. Again, that's why I pay a builder to build my shit, because I am not one.

 

 

You left that part out... and that makes perfect sense.

 

Since you don't build them/preassemble them yourself, I'm 100% certain Cameron checks everything before he sends it to you.

 

I thought you were just buying stuff and throwing it together....if someone else does it for you and you are paying for that, different story.

 

I don't think the last part is apples to oranges when you factor in your builder is checking all this for you.

If the drivers of the car didn't have a team (i.e. builder) who specific job was to do just that...then yes, someone has to check it...:)

 

I again disagree on the whole aftermarket air filter thing (Maybe an air filter is too simple of an example, but nonetheless...I threw it out there).

 

Aftermarket performance is not Walmart. When Walmart sells 10 mil banshee cranks...I promise you I will come back here and agree 100% with you.

 

Lastly...what does Cam or Crankworks say about that 18 mil crank and why it failed? Is it billet or forged?

I can tell you the 10 mil crank works crank I had was damn near bullet proof. Used off ebay, thousands of passes over 3 years and it finally shit a TZ bearing. I retired it...lol.

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You left that part out... and that makes perfect sense.

 

Since you don't build them/preassemble them yourself, I'm 100% certain Cameron checks everything before he sends it to you.

 

I thought you were just buying stuff and throwing it together....if someone else does it for you and you are paying for that, different story.

 

I don't think the last part is apples to oranges when you factor in your builder is checking all this for you.

If the drivers of the car didn't have a team (i.e. builder) who specific job was to do just that...then yes, someone has to check it...:)

 

I again disagree on the whole aftermarket air filter thing (Maybe an air filter is too simple of an example, but nonetheless...I threw it out there).

 

Aftermarket performance is not Walmart. When Walmart sells 10 mil banshee cranks...I promise you I will come back here and agree 100% with you.

 

Lastly...what does Cam or Crankworks say about that 18 mil crank and why it failed? Is it billet or forged?

I can tell you the 10 mil crank works crank I had was damn near bullet proof. Used off ebay, thousands of passes over 3 years and it finally shit a TZ bearing. I retired it...lol.

 

It's a forged 18mm small pin crank. The pin is what broke. Cameron said they were going to a big pin setup on it. As far as failure.. who knows? I didn't have much time on the motor. With only 10 races a year and two passes per race, there is no reason it should have snapped. As far as I know, I'm paying for parts on it. I need to call Cam tonight and get an update.

 

Both of my Crankworks forged 10mm cranks lasted two years in my 10mm cub. To me, that's pretty good. The first time the crank separated and the second time the pin came out and let it go out of phase.

 

As far as aftermarket performance not being Wal-Mart, I agree. I believe it should be above and beyond considering what we do with these motors. That's why I stress that these parts should be perfect from the manufacturer. Letting them get by with lower quality products is why shit breaks and then it's "OUR" fault. We should be holding them to a high standard.

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I believe it should be above and beyond considering what we do with these motors. That's why I stress that these parts should be perfect from the manufacturer. Letting them get by with lower quality products is why shit breaks and then it's "OUR" fault. We should be holding them to a high standard.

 

Oh boy..I"m going to say this very cautiously.... As the owner of the site...I could say the same about certain sponsors and their products.

 

I'll leave it at that....

 

By the way, happy birthday fucker...

 

:)

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Oh boy..I"m going to say this very cautiously.... As the owner of the site...I could say the same about certain sponsors and their products.

 

I'll leave it at that....

 

By the way, happy birthday fucker...

 

:)

 

Hahaha I know, I am constantly on JD about the quality of his stuff!! :rotflmao:

 

Thanks homie! :cheers:

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  • 2 weeks later...

got the crank back and it fits in the cases good now but i notice that the webs are not even.....i dont know if that will affect anything or not

 

ive just never seen them like this,i marked the crank where its not even.

 

it turns in the cases without touching and appears to be trued.......i hope it holds up

 

IMG00735-20110122-1746.jpg

 

IMG00736-20110122-1747.jpg

 

 

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