cobraboxhead Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 Hi ther eguys, I am very very new to this and trying to absorb and learn. I have been looking but cant find any actual description. When an aftermarket arm is classed as +1 +2 etc, what exactly does it mean? I am guessing it means +1 inch but want to be sure rather than guess. Also if it is +1 inch + 2 inch why do people run +2 +1, is it a shorter upper arm to gain more Camber? The bike I am assembling I will most likely sell on, and I think any potential buyers are going to be looking to race in Finke http://www.finkedesertrace.com.au/ This race is fairly high speed, so I think a wider front track would make teh bike more stable, Is this the case? The rear rims that came with it are alloy and about 10 - 12 inches wide, there is also an alloy spacer off approx 2 inches behind each rim, are these ok to use or not really? I am reassembling this on a budget so looking at improving where I can without spending huge amounts of dollars. I am also needing accelerator cables and throttle controler, I see original was a thumb control, if you where racing over 240kls each way each day, would a twist throttle be a preferance over a thumb throttle? Cheers and thanks for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 +2+1 the +2 is 2" wider and the +1 is 1" forward. camber is adjusted at the joints. dont know anything about desert racing, except you have to spend a bit of money in the suspension department. a member on here also from AU "1sick6 " he races his banshees all over. hey may shed some light on desert setups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraboxhead Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 (edited) +2+1 the +2 is 2" wider and the +1 is 1" forward. camber is adjusted at the joints. dont know anything about desert racing, except you have to spend a bit of money in the suspension department. a member on here also from AU "1sick6 " he races his banshees all over. hey may shed some light on desert setups. Hi there Dirty, Thanks very much for the explanation Do you know if 1sick6 is a regular reader or should I send him a PM? When I say I am doing it on a budget, I wont mind spending 1 or 2 grand, but want to do it wisely. I have read that the YZF450 front shock swap is a common one, so will most likely look for a set of these to fit at the same time. The engine is dismantled and barrels have been done with new matching pistons, I will read the invoice and see if it has been ported or anything else like that. Once I know a little more I will start a new thread purely on the build of the bike and see what recomendations come through. I have bought a Clymers manual, so once I have that and read a bit I will get into it. Wouldnt mind having it all done by about early May. Edited January 4, 2011 by cobraboxhead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 sup, he is on occasionally so he may see this post. ive never done the 450 conversion, some people like it, some hate it. the way i see it, there is proper suspension out there for your bike, its gota work better ? and if you buy it new, you can get it built just for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slacker1bob Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 sup, he is on occasionally so he may see this post. ive never done the 450 conversion, some people like it, some hate it. the way i see it, there is proper suspension out there for your bike, its gota work better ? and if you buy it new, you can get it built just for you. You shouldnt have to look at the invoice to see if its ported, just look at your cylinders. ha ha. I dont recommend just tossing 450 shocks on, all that does is jack up the front. Also, remember there is a difference between long travel and standard travel. Too many tards out there call their +2 arms with stock length shocks "long Travel". Long travel denotes the stroke of the shock, not length of arms. So you can have stock length long travel arms, and extended standard travel. I have +3 Herrman long travel arms with 18.25"(14.75" is stock) Elka quad rate shocks. Rides great. Lastly, with extended arms, it will handle the best with wheels offset to the inside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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