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Cheap home made flywheel tool


shoopie

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I think thats a good Idea no matter what anyone else thinks. And by the way, a flywheel holder is the proper tool for the job. I guess I'm just anal about tightening nuts to the proper torque, especially on a tapered crank snout. Hard to do with an impact.

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I think thats a good Idea no matter what anyone else thinks. And by the way, a flywheel holder is the proper tool for the job. I guess I'm just anal about tightening nuts to the proper torque, especially on a tapered crank snout. Hard to do with an impact.

Never had a problem just zipping it right on with the impact and guessing. But then again that is only on my own shit. Works fine for me though.

 

And the day your impact takes a "walk" you'll wish you had a holder. Quit bustin his chops. Not every 'shee owner is rollin in $$ :jesterlaugh:

Then I will put the quad in gear, hold the brake and do it. That seems pretty cheap. Or if the topend is off just stuff a breaker bar through the rods :blink:

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I think thats a good Idea no matter what anyone else thinks. And by the way, a flywheel holder is the proper tool for the job. I guess I'm just anal about tightening nuts to the proper torque, especially on a tapered crank snout. Hard to do with an impact.

 

If you were anal about tightening the flywheel to the proper spec, then you'd have to pull the clutch cover and put a wrench or socket on the nut on the other side.

 

Using the flywheel to hold things still while you torque the nut is putting all that torque onto your timing key. Those aren't very strong to begin with. If you want to get technical and do it the proper way, then you need to hold the nut on the opposite side of the crank to prevent rotation.

 

The motion used by the impact will spin the nut on or off regardless of the position or slight motion of the crank. If you use a good impact you can just hold the flywheel by hand and zip the nut off.

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And the day your impact takes a "walk" you'll wish you had a holder. Quit bustin his chops. Not every 'shee owner is rollin in $$$ :jesterlaugh:

 

If mine took a "walk" I would go buy another one with my swimming pool full of $$. Actually you can pick them up at pawn shops and egay for less than some of you guys spend on your fancy snapon tools.

 

They aren't that expensive. You can pick one up that will do the flywheel job for less than $250. And considering everything else you can do with them, thats not a bad price.

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Flywheel tool - http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0008/

Why re-invent the wheel? Fits in the tool box too. :shrugani: Works on the clutch side also. ;)

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Never had a problem just zipping it right on with the impact and guessing. But then again that is only on my own shit. Works fine for me though.

 

 

Then I will put the quad in gear, hold the brake and do it. That seems pretty cheap. Or if the topend is off just stuff a breaker bar through the rods :blink:

 

And you more than likely will never have a problem doing it that way but being that the torque spec is like 59 ft/lbs or something I just dont use my impact. All I have is powerful air impacts and with one blurp of the trigger it'd be at about 150 ft/lbs. I use it to take the nut off. I dont care how other people tighten them just saying it's not technically the "proper" way. I dont claim to do everything by the book.

 

If you were anal about tightening the flywheel to the proper spec, then you'd have to pull the clutch cover and put a wrench or socket on the nut on the other side.

 

Using the flywheel to hold things still while you torque the nut is putting all that torque onto your timing key. Those aren't very strong to begin with. If you want to get technical and do it the proper way, then you need to hold the nut on the opposite side of the crank to prevent rotation.

 

The motion used by the impact will spin the nut on or off regardless of the position or slight motion of the crank. If you use a good impact you can just hold the flywheel by hand and zip the nut off.

 

If you lap in your flywheel to your crank and lightly seat it in before you tighten the nut it isnt going to put much torque at all on the key, especially if your using a flywheel holder because your applying slight pressure the opposite direction. If your key or keyway are that loose you got bigger problems than how you put your nut on. Anyway a flywheel holder also works well when actually taking the flywheel off with the puller, unless your using an impact of course and trust the fine little threads. You can let the impact rattle away till you twist your cank out of phase for all I care I'm just saying that I think a flywheel holder is a good tool to have and for those that need one and dont have time to buy one he did a good job making one, dont give him shit for something that you dont even know what it is.

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Sweet flywheel holder the dude made. Congrats. For fucks sake lets all get worked up over this. I am not going to sleep tonight just imagining my flywheel being tightened to 60ft/lbs instead of 59. But anyway. Jared quit fucking trolling other peoples threads. Damnit. Go back to honing cylinders with sand.

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actually, since were getting technical... as i recall, (could be wrong) the clymer manual (though obviously not published by yamaha) says to use the flywheel holding tool.... which is made by yamaha (any many others) but the point is, if YAMAHA makes a tool to hold the flywheel, one could conclude that according to the manufacturer, THATS the way to do it. either way, if the guy doesnt wanna but a $250 battery powered impact, this is an inexpensive, and very effective alternative... cut the guy some fucking slack

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lol, this cracks me up :rotflmao: ...many people make tools like that all the time for different things.......at work, we just cut one up out of sheet real quick and replace the bolts as they slip.....sometimes, it works better than a bought tool. and, about putting force on the key, the key is simply an alignment tool. with a good taper, it takes very little pressure, and the taper/cone locks on tight...and the more you tighten, the stronger it is locked in place, not being moved by the nut being torqued.........I've done both impact, and hand. i can tell you the clutch doesn't hold a static load as strong as you might think..........i just torque mine up to clutch slippage and call it good, and use an impact, or shock a breaker with a 3-4# to pop it off when it's been lock-tited.....never threw heat at it. there is a stator and magnets there for possible colladeral damage...

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