400sbc Posted December 30, 2010 Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 i am presently rebuilding my motor and wish to had a little power to my shee. The thing is i really need to fuel up with pump gas (91-94) octane. I ride wooded trails and forestry road most of the time. presently my mods are: v-force 3, k&n filter, fatty fmf and power core 2, boost bottle, stock carbs, dynatek cdi set to map2, ricky stator and aluminum oversize radiator.. i'm Running 40:1 mix with Klotz ONLY . I will install a cool head and welded and trued my crank cause it's still good ,but Which domes would you suggest? to get about 60-65 hp do i need porting? Remember that i really neede to stay on pump gas thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MN SHEE Posted December 30, 2010 Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 talk to a sit sponser and get your jugs ported fast did mine great guy to deal with. I have also baught parts from some of the other sponsers and they are all great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FadedDreams Posted December 30, 2010 Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 When I got dynoed a few years back I made 58 with way off jetting. I figure I would have seen closer to 70 if my jetting was perfect. At the time I had Rocket pipes, VF2's, 30mm Keihins, clamp-on K&N filters, +4 timing, and a cool head with domes cut for race gas. I also had a Dune port from Patriot Racing. The Dune port was perfect for the type of riding i did, which is pretty much the same as you. 4-mill would be a good idea if you wanted to spend a little bit more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kodie Posted December 30, 2010 Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 get it ported talk to a site sponsor. And while you are talking to them about porting they will suggest a dome size to keep you on pump gas and get you the hp numbers you want. I wouldn't see a problem with 21 cc domes. Elevation will play a role in what the lowest dome you can run before your psi gets to high and are forced to run race fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06specialedition Posted December 30, 2010 Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 Porting will wake that up. Any site sponsor does awesome work. I had Wildcard port my shee, and I couldnt be happier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
400sbc Posted December 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 ok thanks for answer,. Do you need to mil the cool head too or just cylinders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kodie Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 cool heads have interchangeable domes so you won't have to mil them. 21 cc domes should keep you below the psi levels to stay on pump fuel 93 or 94 what ever you can get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdzbangshee Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 get a site sponsor to port it it will run like a raped ape for a wile good luck tuning it haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbcmudtruck Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 A 4mil mx or a 4mil dune port would be right up your alley. www.farmandsandtoys.com <----- Jeff will hook you up with everything you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
400sbc Posted December 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 Do you think, guys, that i should install a stroked crank shaft with long rods, to get some torque out of it. The thing is in the trails no one of my friend can follow me (with the mods that i have now) they have raptor 700 injected, but when we drag short distance (1/8 mile) the raptor just give a beat. I can't handle this situation no more....!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kodie Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 If you have the extra money put a stroker in. Jeff sells them for 450 trued and welded. You will have to run 795 series pistons and domes cut for a 4 mil stroker. Talk to a site sponser they will be able to set you up with what kind of power you want for your situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
400sbc Posted January 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 ok thanks i'll call them up! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 i am presently rebuilding my motor and wish to had a little power to my shee. The thing is i really need to fuel up with pump gas (91-94) octane. I ride wooded trails and forestry road most of the time. presently my mods are: v-force 3, k&n filter, fatty fmf and power core 2, boost bottle, stock carbs, dynatek cdi set to map2, ricky stator and aluminum oversize radiator.. i'm Running 40:1 mix with Klotz ONLY . I will install a cool head and welded and trued my crank cause it's still good ,but Which domes would you suggest? to get about 60-65 hp do i need porting? Remember that i really neede to stay on pump gas thanks guys I've got mine in the mid 70hp range. I pasted my build list bellow. I'm sure there's thing I'm forgetting. Lawrenceburg Ky *Elevation: 787/240 Approximate Hours on new engine = 22.63 hours Banshee Engine Modifications: 1. Bore:.020 2. Crank: Hod Rods Forged Crank. 3. Pistons: Wiseco Forged Ultra lite Aluminum. 4. Exhaust: Paul Turner Mids/Fat Boy Silencers. 5. Filter: Ready high performance Air Filter. With stock/Modded intake air Box lid ON. 6. Reeds: Boysen Duel Stage Power Reeds. In OEM cages. 7. Head: Trinity's Cool Head and 20cc domes. 8. Jetting: Vito's Stage 3 Jet Kit (290 Jet). 9.Plugs: NGK NBR8EIX Iridium Plugs. 10. Cooling Upgrades: Mod Quad Billet water pump impeller flows 3 times more volume, 30% bigger Aluminum radiator, Mod Quad 2"l Billet inline coolers, Trinity's Stage IV Cool Head. 11. Fuel/Oil: 32-1 pump gasoline 93 octane plus half bottle of 5pt Octane boost per 5 gallons, and Klotz Techno-Plate 2 stroke oil. 12.Suspension: Full Flight +3+1 Silver Vain a arms with 12 Point Adjustable Chromoly Heims (FOR YFZ-450R SHOCKS), Full Flight Tie Rods and Tie Rod Ends, Full 2010 YZF-450R Steering Stem (with Flag), Spindles, Shocks, Hubs, Brakes, Brake Lines. ALL BALLS Baring front and rear. Factory Spec 1+1 "FOUR PLAY" Forged Rear Axle, Raptor 660R rear Shock. 13.Gearing: Drive Systems F=13 R=42 Forged Sprockets, and Chain (I also have a 12, 14, 15, 16, 17 East Cost ATV Sprocket Set.) 14.Clutch: YZF-1000 Clutch Conversion By Drive-Line, Barnett Dirt Digger Basket. EZ-Pull Shorty Clutch Lever. 15.Appearance: Interchangeable Maier Front Plastic Black Custom "Raptor" Style front finders equipped with billet FAST Fasteners (ON/OFF in 4 minutes) Maier OEM Style Red Fenders, Silver Radiator Cover, and Black Gas Tank Covers equipped with billet FAST Fasteners (ON/OFF in 6 minutes). Maier OEM Style Black rear replacements, OEM Heal Guards. 2003 Yamaha OEM Replica Limited Edition Flame Graphics, The Yellow has been replaced with Red on the OEM Maier Plastic, and the Yellow Has been replaced with Black On the Maier Custom Fenders, so both sets match the rear fenders perfect. 16:Other: DG Six Pack Rack, Red Rubber Maid Mini Cooler, DG Full Body Skids, DG Front and Side Frame Protectors, DG Fat Boy Nerf Bars, DG YZF-450R Fat Boy A Arm Skid Plates, DG Baja Full Rear Swing Arm Skid with chain cover, Maier Plastic Dick Brake Cover, Fly Handle Bars, Jaws Shark Mouth Bumper/ and OEM Aluminum Heavy Duty Replica Bumper to swap in and out , DG Rear Bumper, Eye Headlight Covers, Magnum Boost Bottle, Adjustable Timing Plate + 10, T.O.R.S. Delete Kit, Trail Tech Vector with Trail Tech Handle Bar Pod, Mod Quad Folding Shifter, Douglas Baja Yellow label Polished Rims OE Size, 20X11-9 AT-111 Six Ply "Hole Shot" Tires, Rear: 21 X 7-10 AT-111 Six Ply "Hole Shot" Tires Front, Modded YFZ_450 Custom Radiator Shroud, Twin Spectre Chrome/Glass Fuel Filters. 17.Polished Parts: Mod Quad 3 Piece Starter Cover, Clutch Cover, Water Pump Cover, Carburetors and Caps, Choke Knob, ON/OFF Gas Switch and Plate, Rear Brake Reservoir Cap, Boost Bottle, Head, Fuel Filters, Reed Cages, Stainless Steal Braided Hoses fuel lines and brake cables, Red Taylor Spark Plug Covers 10mm, Metallic Chrome/Red Electrical Wire Conduit, Polished Stainless Bolt Kit. 18.Lubricants: Klotz Synthetic Gear Case Oil in transmission mixed with 10% Lucas Oil Stabilizer, Klotz Techno-Plate Synthetic 2 stroke oil, Nevastane HT/AW 2 Full Synthetic Grease in all fittings and joints, ATV Blue Engine Ice Antifreeze, Prestone Synthetic D.O.T. Brake Fluid . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06specialedition Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 I've got mine in the mid 70hp range. I pasted my build list bellow. I'm sure there's thing I'm forgetting. Mid 70's with no porting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotta_goatsfast Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Thack, I think you might be over-estimating your power a bit. With your bolt-ons, I will guess you are in the 45 to 49hp area. To get to 65hp, porting is a must. With a 54mm stroke, the porting will have to me slightly more aggressive to make that number. With a 58mm crankshaft your powerband will be broad and smooth. Also, the added stroke will enhance the bikes performance below the "pipe". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.