New Banshee Owner

[vinnycuz]

Hey guys, I found this forum a few weeks ago when I picked up my new Banshee (new to me lol). Anyway its a blue 2004 and all stock (came with FMF PowerCore silencers but with stock headers - REMOVED). This is what I have ordered so far:

 

Toomey T-5 Full Chrome Exhaust

Tommey 2 into 1 Foam Air Filter (no air box)

Toomey Perfect Jet Kit

 

I have been reading about Jetting through the pinned topic and other topics. I am in New york, I would say sea level since the highest riding area I would be riding in is about 150ft above sea level. I am still lost when it comes to jetting for levels and temps (example: size mains, jets, etc).

 

I have been reading about other mods such as star mod, timing, T.O.R.S. removal, etc. I wish there was some pinned topics about this. I an engineer so I can learn from pics, instructions or what have you without problems or ra-tard questions. I am definitely interested in porting for trail and boring (60 or 80 over? What does it all mean? lol) but am confused between the two. I am not looking to do any extreme work but would like as much power as I can afford (would say maybe another $1k and thats it).

 

If you guys can help me out that would be great. I am 5'7, 180 and do mainly trail riding with the occasional "lets see who is faster" race lol.

 

Thanks guys/gals,

 

Vinny

[Wicked ATV]

Hey guys, I found this forum a few weeks ago when I picked up my new Banshee (new to me lol). Anyway its a blue 2004 and all stock (came with FMF PowerCore silencers but with stock headers - REMOVED). This is what I have ordered so far:

 

Toomey T-5 Full Chrome Exhaust

Tommey 2 into 1 Foam Air Filter (no air box)

Toomey Perfect Jet Kit

 

I have been reading about Jetting through the pinned topic and other topics. I am in New york, I would say sea level since the highest riding area I would be riding in is about 150ft above sea level. I am still lost when it comes to jetting for levels and temps (example: size mains, jets, etc).

 

I have been reading about other mods such as star mod, timing, T.O.R.S. removal, etc. I wish there was some pinned topics about this. I an engineer so I can learn from pics, instructions or what have you without problems or ra-tard questions. I am definitely interested in porting for trail and boring (60 or 80 over? What does it all mean? lol) but am confused between the two. I am not looking to do any extreme work but would like as much power as I can afford (would say maybe another $1k and thats it).

 

If you guys can help me out that would be great. I am 5'7, 180 and do mainly trail riding with the occasional "lets see who is faster" race lol.

 

Thanks guys/gals,

 

Vinny

 

Hey Vinny Welcome!

 

Your going to get hooked like we all did. It becomes like an addicting drug and you never know when you can shake it. For me...? Well 18yrs later Here we are www.wickedatv.com which i think you'll get the same story from other builders too lol...

 

My suggestion is... save the jet kit or sell it. Thou if you plan to move on to say a 68mm bore Example Athena or cub then you'll need the long needles in that kit.

 

Now If keeping the stock air box. I suggest this which works great Run 280M with Air box lid off. 25pilot which is stock. air screw in 1 to 1/2 turn out *Stock* Needle clip at 2nd from bottom. this will work out dead nuts perfect. Estimated HP will be at about 45-46hp

 

from there the Typical small affordable upgrades

 

Compression: about 140-150 if crank stock not welded

Timing Advance: +4

Reeds: Suggest V-3

then Re-jet to 310 main jet this should set you @ about 48-51hp rear wheel and waken up your bottom end from a night and day difference.

 

The above recommendations work great from 65 deg to 95 or so So winter time might be a tad too cold or to even be on the bike. lol....

 

for the boring to 060-080. over save your time and money. For the difference it's not worth taking away that much life away from your motor. If it's std. bore just freshen it up to the next size .020 over I suggest Wiseco's if you plan to as well port it.

 

If you do porting it the jetting will change.

 

I hope this info helps and again welcome.

[vinnycuz]

Hey Vinny Welcome!

 

Your going to get hooked like we all did. It becomes like an addicting drug and you never know when you can shake it. For me...? Well 18yrs later Here we are www.wickedatv.com which i think you'll get the same story from other builders too lol...

 

My suggestion is... save the jet kit or sell it. Thou if you plan to move on to say a 68mm bore Example Athena or cub then you'll need the long needles in that kit.

 

Now If keeping the stock air box. I suggest this which works great Run 280M with Air box lid off. 25pilot which is stock. air screw in 1 to 1/2 turn out *Stock* Needle clip at 2nd from bottom. this will work out dead nuts perfect. Estimated HP will be at about 45-46hp

 

from there the Typical small affordable upgrades

 

Compression: about 140-150 if crank stock not welded

Timing Advance: +4

Reeds: Suggest V-3

then Re-jet to 310 main jet this should set you @ about 48-51hp rear wheel and waken up your bottom end from a night and day difference.

 

The above recommendations work great from 65 deg to 95 or so So winter time might be a tad too cold or to even be on the bike. lol....

 

for the boring to 060-080. over save your time and money. For the difference it's not worth taking away that much life away from your motor. If it's std. bore just freshen it up to the next size .020 over I suggest Wiseco's if you plan to as well port it.

 

If you do porting it the jetting will change.

 

I hope this info helps and again welcome.

 

Thanks for the info Wicked. the Jet Kit came with the kit I purchased from Toomey, I got a good deal. Comes with the 2 into 1 foam air filter so I will be removing the air box totally. Is that correct? My future plan is to perform the timing and the V Force 3 reeds. It really didnt say if the Jet Kit comes with different mains/jets etc.

 

If I wanted a Trail/MX port does this just open up the air intakes like say if I did this to a car intake manifold or is this something that requires new pistons? or is that boring that needs new pistons?

 

Any other mods you can suggest when using a stock engine and crank?

[Jereme6655]

boring is when you machine out the cylinder to the next size for a larger piston to fit. This is done when your compression gets low in the cylinders or there is some damage on the cylinder walls. Do not just get it bored to .060 or .080 over........you only want them to bore it as little as possible. You will also need to put in new pistons when you get it bored. Site sponsors on here are definately the way to go when it comes down to motor work...including simple rebuilds. When getting a cylinder ported you do not need to get new pistons....unless doing a rebuild at the same time. Getting it ported just opens up the timing windows in the cylinders at specific times and flows the air/fuel charge in a more precise way to gain more power.

 

When you change to an aftermarket pipe.....like a FMF fattie or a T-5 you should also change your stock pilot jet by going one size larger....making it a 27.5

 

Getting your crank welded is a person choice.....alot of people on here have had issues with the cranks seperating. the cranks are pressed together pieces and when power is added to gain performance they can seperate and if gone unnoticed they can even grind into the cases causing MASSIVE damage. This has also happened on completely stock bikes. And there are some out there that are running tons of power on a non-welded crank. My suggestion is just to get it welded to keep yourself in a peaceful state of mind.

[vinnycuz]

boring is when you machine out the cylinder to the next size for a larger piston to fit. This is done when your compression gets low in the cylinders or there is some damage on the cylinder walls. Do not just get it bored to .060 or .080 over........you only want them to bore it as little as possible. You will also need to put in new pistons when you get it bored. Site sponsors on here are definately the way to go when it comes down to motor work...including simple rebuilds. When getting a cylinder ported you do not need to get new pistons....unless doing a rebuild at the same time. Getting it ported just opens up the timing windows in the cylinders at specific times and flows the air/fuel charge in a more precise way to gain more power.

 

When you change to an aftermarket pipe.....like a FMF fattie or a T-5 you should also change your stock pilot jet by going one size larger....making it a 27.5

 

Getting your crank welded is a person choice.....alot of people on here have had issues with the cranks seperating. the cranks are pressed together pieces and when power is added to gain performance they can seperate and if gone unnoticed they can even grind into the cases causing MASSIVE damage. This has also happened on completely stock bikes. And there are some out there that are running tons of power on a non-welded crank. My suggestion is just to get it welded to keep yourself in a peaceful state of mind.

 

Jereme thanks for the info on boring and the whole 60 or 80 over versus porting concept. Will a trail port be something I would want or should I not even port? This Banshee I purchase is stock and probably was never rebuilt or anything. Should I be rebuilding the carbs or the top of the engine? Clean the pistons or change them? I want to have good performance but without sacraficing the reliability. I am going to look into getting my crank trued and welled like you mentions as well.

 

This is my plan:

 

Toomey T-5 Full Exhaust - Purchased

Toomey 2-1 Foam Air Filter (removal of the entire ait box) - Purchased

Toomey Perfect Jet Kit - Purchased

V Force 3 Reeds - not yet purchased

Shift Star Mod - not yet purchased

TORS Removal - not yet purchased

Pro Design Timing Plate +4 - not yet purchased

Trail Port Job by a Sponsor here at bansheehq - not yet purchased

 

Anything I am missing before having to start opening up the engine?

[TwistedSheeRida]

I agree with pretty much everything wicked atv had written. Thats a nice setup and you should be able to beat your buddies with it. The carb jetting he suggested is pretty much spot on to what i was running and pretty much the same setup, and i can tell you from first hand experience that it ripped. Id keep the airbox lose the lid and put in a K&N. Cool head, high flow impeller, shift shaft mod, and 15/41 gearing are a few other things to look into.

[vinnycuz]

I agree with pretty much everything wicked atv had written. Thats a nice setup and you should be able to beat your buddies with it. The carb jetting he suggested is pretty much spot on to what i was running and pretty much the same setup, and i can tell you from first hand experience that it ripped. Id keep the airbox lose the lid and put in a K&N. Cool head, high flow impeller, shift shaft mod, and 15/41 gearing are a few other things to look into.

 

Thanks alot TwistedSheeRida! Replacing the Cool Head requires replacing Domes also or is that separate all together?

[Wicked ATV]

I agree with pretty much everything wicked atv had written. Thats a nice setup and you should be able to beat your buddies with it. The carb jetting he suggested is pretty much spot on to what i was running and pretty much the same setup, and i can tell you from first hand experience that it ripped. Id keep the airbox lose the lid and put in a K&N. Cool head, high flow impeller, shift shaft mod, and 15/41 gearing are a few other things to look into.

 

 

Thanks Twistedsheerida

[Wicked ATV]

Jereme thanks for the info on boring and the whole 60 or 80 over versus porting concept. Will a trail port be something I would want or should I not even port? This Banshee I purchase is stock and probably was never rebuilt or anything. Should I be rebuilding the carbs or the top of the engine? Clean the pistons or change them? I want to have good performance but without sacraficing the reliability. I am going to look into getting my crank trued and welled like you mentions as well.

 

This is my plan:

 

Toomey T-5 Full Exhaust - Purchased

Toomey 2-1 Foam Air Filter (removal of the entire ait box) - Purchased

Toomey Perfect Jet Kit - Purchased

V Force 3 Reeds - not yet purchased

Shift Star Mod - not yet purchased

TORS Removal - not yet purchased

Pro Design Timing Plate +4 - not yet purchased

Trail Port Job by a Sponsor here at bansheehq - not yet purchased

 

Anything I am missing before having to start opening up the engine?

 

This is my plan:

 

Toomey T-5 Full Exhaust - Purchased

Toomey 2-1 Foam Air Filter (removal of the entire ait box) - Purchased

Toomey Perfect Jet Kit - Purchased

V Force 3 Reeds - not yet purchased

Shift Star Mod - not yet purchased

TORS Removal - not yet purchased

Pro Design Timing Plate +4 - not yet purchased

Trail Port Job by a Sponsor here at bansheehq - not yet purchased

 

If you plan to remove the Airbox jetting will be different, I'd suggest keep it on if your going to be slinging water and mud around. If only sand riding use the 2- separate K&N filters with out wears and get a reservoir bottle bracket holder we got them for like 20.00 bucks i think?

 

Even thou I just noticed you bought the K&N 2-in to one I don't recommend it. They intend to fall off. Too much weight when the bike is bouncing around. Other might say different but this is just from experience from many of my customers who used them and my self. But... your dead set on the 2-1 filter then it's really up to you to keep it. these our just our suggestions

 

Thou... if you are going to run the Airbox like twistedsheerida said Use the K&N filter with Outerwear. The Stock Foam are about as good for one use only. as well remove the lid and snorkel. Get a nice Pro Flow K&N they fit and work very nice or you can Modify the stock plastic one to work too.

 

My suggestion is to send your Carbs, thumb throttle and cylinders to whom ever you plan to have your cylinders ported By *Hint *hint

 

Then they or us could do the TORS modifications, jetted to the port job and synchronized. You'll just have to pull the cable out of the throttle housing to re-route it when you get it back. As per the instructions the TORS kit lacks the instructions of how deep to cut down to fit the Idle screws. They're mod is lacking the extra info and you can't get enough idle.

 

For the shift star Mod save your money. I'd suggest to just get a shift pro we got them and use them in every banshee that comes in. work so much better and easy to instal. http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=8134&iCat=274&iChannel=8&nChannel=Products

 

one more suggestion. If you plan to just run Pump 91-93octane you can keep your stock head and it cost about $100 to modify it. Just have who ever does your Cylinder work machine the head for you. Then you got a sleeper....

 

Here is some Porting information as well if you'd like to look: http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=358&iCat=259&iChannel=2&nChannel=Articles

 

I hope this helps and don't confuse your options more.

[vinnycuz]

WickedATV it looks like I will be in contact with you in the near future. I will be powder coating some parts along with the frame in the next month or so after the new year so I will have the parts all ready to ship out. Thanks for the info and I appreciate all the suggestions!

[Wicked ATV]

WickedATV it looks like I will be in contact with you in the near future. I will be powder coating some parts along with the frame in the next month or so after the new year so I will have the parts all ready to ship out. Thanks for the info and I appreciate all the suggestions!

 

Awesome Thanks Vinny!