rocz Posted December 8, 2010 Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 Hay guys i just picked up my first Banshee the other day and was hoping to get a few questions answered. Ive been looking around here the last couple of days and this seems like a really great place! First off the motor is bad, it's in boxes had a big end rod bearing let go. But i got it cheep and lii be able to build it how i want, and it came with a new hot rods crank!! The thing i don't like is it doesn't have a air box just two k&n pods, i plan on riding mostly dirt trails hair scramble type stuff, what would be a good setup here, are the stock air boxes real bad for power, is the a after market air box or pods fine to run. I'm not a big fan of k&n's in the dirt Ive seen a few dirtbikes run them and they all seam to have motor issues rather quickly compared to bikes that ran a foam filter and that is even in a stock air box where their not getting hit directly with mud. My second question is about the front suspension bushings. The J arm bushings are shot, the lowers A's are fine but i think i will do them anyway just to get it over with, are the brass bushings the way to go here or are they a wast. And how the hell do i post some pictures of this thing lol. thanks for any help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hercalmighty Posted December 8, 2010 Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 The stock airbox isnt bad if you run it without an air lid. I ran an open air box with a twinair air filter for a long time without any issues. I ride pretty much harescrambles, dirt, mud, creek crossings, all the good stuff. There are also aftermarket air boxes out there that are pretty good. You can pick up a used stock air box for cheap. As far as the bushings go, if you want something good get delron* bushings (*I think thats how its spelled). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
He's A Shee Posted December 8, 2010 Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 Stock airbox is fine. I run with the lid, except you absolutely must pull the snorkel off. The Delrin bearings you mentioned, are those just plastic bearings that take the place of the needle bearings? I looked them up and it seems like an INCREDIBLE deal!! Why spend $160 on Pivot Works Bearings (I have upper and lower... A-arms) when I can spend $20!!! Is this too good to be true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocz Posted December 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 Thanks for the help, I just ended up making some brass bushing bushings for the front end. Anyone have a stock air box they want to sell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 Thanks for the help, I just ended up making some brass bushing bushings for the front end. Anyone have a stock air box they want to sell? Be careful, brass is NOT the way to go. While it is not going to oxidize, it is very soft and will wear quickly. If you're going to make your own, go with carbon impregnated bronze. It's much harder and "self lubricating". The reason Delrin bushings are so cheap is b/c their so easy to manufacture, the raw material actually costs more than bronze. There's a reason it's become so popular for bushings and that's because of it's cost and wear properties (think Teflon on steroids). Despite what some say, you should not lubricate it, you'll only provide a place for the grime to stick to and make grinding paste. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8905519 Abstract Delrin acetal resin, a product of DuPont, is formed from the polymerization of formaldehyde. The tightly interlocked helical molecules and high crystallinity result in excellent mechanical properties. Its superiority in tensile strength, stiffness, creep resistance, and fatigue classify it as an "engineering resin', a term used for plastics which can compete with metals in many applications. One of the important characteristics separating Delrin from other engineering plastics such as polyamides (nylons) is its very low water absorption and the small effect of aqueous solutions on its properties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 I put the Toomey bronze bushings in my 89 Banshee in about 1991 and they have been in there ever since. My bike gets greased regularly and the bushings are still tight. Much better than the stock plastic bushings it came with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the help, I just ended up making some brass bushing bushings for the front end. Anyone have a stock air box they want to sell? I'm running with a stock air box and a K&N stock replacement filter and I'll have to say that I do have to clean and re-oil it after a day of dusty riding b/c it clogs up so bad I'm running heavily rich by the end of the day. I was thinking about trying something else but when you think about it, the filter IS doing it's job. I also have an Outerwears prefilter over the top of the air box, but this is to deflect mud and water when I hit a puddle at any good speed. That has definitely caused problems. btw, you'll need to drill out the top of your stock air box and not just toss it b/c it holds the filter in place. We don't actually remove the top. I'm actually using a "stretchy book cover" that I got in the dollar store for a pre-filter right now b/c it covers the snorkel opening and the drilled holes down the top of my air box (Outerwears doesn't cover the snorkel opening). I can post up some pics if you need. Edited December 12, 2010 by muggzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocz Posted December 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 Be careful, brass is NOT the way to go. While it is not going to oxidize, it is very soft and will wear quickly. If you're going to make your own, go with carbon impregnated bronze. It's much harder and "self lubricating". You caught me, their not brass i made them out of bronze bushing stock, didn't think anyone would know the difference good job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocz Posted December 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 I'm running with a stock air box and a K&N stock replacement filter and I'll have to say that I do have to clean and re-oil it after a day of dusty riding b/c it clogs up so bad I'm running heavily rich by the end of the day. I was thinking about trying something else but when you think about it, the filter IS doing it's job. I also have an Outerwears prefilter over the top of the air box, but this is to deflect mud and water when I hit a puddle at any good speed. That has definitely caused problems. btw, you'll need to drill out the top of your stock air box and not just toss it b/c it holds the filter in place. We don't actually remove the top. I'm actually using a "stretchy book cover" that I got in the dollar store for a pre-filter right now b/c it covers the snorkel opening and the drilled holes down the top of my air box (Outerwears doesn't cover the snorkel opening). I can post up some pics if you need. I take it you mostly dirt, im kinda scared to run a k&n in the dirt had a couple people i know with dirt bikes that were running k&n's have alot of motor problems and the only way i could see it getting in to the motor was through the air filter. It was almost like once it got dirty it just started letting shit right through, the intake duct work was coated with dust the last time i had to rebuild one. How long has your motor been together, any major problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted December 13, 2010 Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 I take it you mostly dirt, im kinda scared to run a k&n in the dirt had a couple people i know with dirt bikes that were running k&n's have alot of motor problems and the only way i could see it getting in to the motor was through the air filter. It was almost like once it got dirty it just started letting shit right through, the intake duct work was coated with dust the last time i had to rebuild one. How long has your motor been together, any major problems? It's been running on a rebuild for 2 seasons now. The K&N has been on there for most of that. No problems. I've taken the carbs off several times for the reeds, cleaning, rejetting ... and haven't found any dirt in there. So far, so good. I do use K&N's filter spray and cleaner and clean it frequently though. Like I said sometimes after a single day. I will say that I'm definitley not happy with the foam seal between the filter and the air box at the carb end though. But that's not a K&N thing, it's anything you put in that air box that conforms with the stock fit. Someone mentioned twinair and I was wondering if the filter mounts on the stock support frame or does it come with one? If anyone knows, I'd love to hear about it/see it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted December 13, 2010 Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 im pretty sure it comes with an adapter so that it can stay in there without the lid on and still maintain a seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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