motor oil change

[shoopie]

some of you are going to call me an idiot. but i changed the oil in my banshee today because i had a nice leak so i drained what was left (barely any) and re-filled. only thing i had on hand was some heavy truck oil. i think 15W-40. i ran it for like 5 minutes just to get it cycled and it seemed like it didn't want to rev as high as it should and when i engaged the clutch it was definitely still grabbing a good bit and it was pretty hard to shift into neutral. should i definitely switch back to the bel ray i had in it, which i think was 10W-30?

also do any of the stop-leak oil additives work well in banshee motors? i think someone split the cases in this bike before i got it and didn't seal it right so now that its getting colder the metal in my case is contracting and leaking more because it never really leaked before except for the occasional drips.

 

-Ryan

[dirtydownunder]

idiot..... haha

 

you have probably killed your clutch. drain it and put the correct trans oil in, that is for wet clutches. you may have to run it a few times and drain it to get your clutch back.

if that fails, youll need a new clutch.

 

 

no stop leak isnt good in this case, because it has additives you dont want for your clutch, and stop leak is for rubber seal (helps make them soft and seal better)..

 

clean it down and find where its leaking and rectify it.

[jbooker82]

I bet he didn't if he used 15w40. You can use a Diesel Engine oil in your banshee. A lot of guys run Rotella T 5w40 synthetic in 4 stroke atvs and motorcycles. The non synthetic's are 15w40. Diesel engine oil doesnt contain friction modifiers like regular car enine oil.

 

The hard shifting in to neutral is probably caused by the fact that 15w40 is a thick oil. You want to run a light oil to help improve shifting.

 

 

As for stop leaks, dont use them. If it is leaking that bad then just fix the problem right.

[dirtydownunder]

i know diesel has detergents as well, and some do have friction modifiers, most new diesel oils with those particulate filters have the F/M's or some additives, as well as most semi and full synthetic oils.

 

if its a a mineral based oil, you'll be right.

[jbooker82]

I dont run diesle engine oil just know there are lots of people in the 4 stroke world that do. I havent seen a any diesel engine oil that has "Energy Conserving" in the certification doughnut seal. Oils that have energy concerving lable are usually high in molybdenum disulfide. It is a metalic like luberance and when it contaminates the clutch plates. Once the clutch plates are contaminated they need replaced.

 

josh

[rdzbangshee]

put the oil oil in a glass jar you will be surprised what you sea

[AKheathen]

put the oil oil in a glass jar you will be surprised what you sea

beluga?

[sleeper06]

Leak is only going to get worse identify it and fix it,its prob a sprocket or shift shaft seal

[shoopie]

the leak is from the bottom of the case somewhere.

[doxaimpex]

On 12/7/2010 at 7:55 AM, shoopie said:

some of you are going to call me an idiot. but i changed the oil in my banshee today because i had a nice leak so i drained what was left (barely any) and re-filled. only thing i had on hand was some heavy truck oil. i think 15W-40. i ran it for like 5 minutes just to get it cycled and it seemed like it didn't want to rev as high as it should and when i engaged the clutch it was definitely still grabbing a good bit and it was pretty hard to shift into neutral. should i definitely switch back to the bel ray i had in it, which i think was 10W-30?

also do any of the stop-leak oil additives work well in banshee motors? i think someone split the cases in this bike before i got it and didn't seal it right so now that its getting colder the metal in my case is contracting and leaking more because it never really leaked before except for the occasional drips.

 

-Ryan

Using fully synthetic 15W40 diesel oil in your Banshee instead of the usual 10W-30 can cause the issues you're experiencing. Fully synthetic 15W40 diesel oil is significantly thicker, especially when cold, which can affect engine revving and clutch engagement.

Given your Banshee's symptoms, I recommend switching back to the Bel Ray 10W-30 as soon as possible. The proper oil viscosity is crucial for smooth operation, particularly in a high-performance engine like the Banshee's.

As for the oil leak, using a stop-leak additive is a temporary fix at best. These additives can sometimes work, but they are not a substitute for proper sealing. If the cases were improperly sealed, the best long-term solution is to have the cases split and resealed correctly.

In summary, switch back to the 10W-30 oil and consider addressing the sealing issue more permanently rather than relying on additives. Fully synthetic 15W40 diesel oil is great for heavy trucks but not ideal for your Banshee.

[Jereme6655]

7 hours ago, doxaimpex said:

Using fully synthetic 15W40 diesel oil in your Banshee instead of the usual 10W-30 can cause the issues you're experiencing. Fully synthetic 15W40 diesel oil is significantly thicker, especially when cold, which can affect engine revving and clutch engagement.

Given your Banshee's symptoms, I recommend switching back to the Bel Ray 10W-30 as soon as possible. The proper oil viscosity is crucial for smooth operation, particularly in a high-performance engine like the Banshee's.

As for the oil leak, using a stop-leak additive is a temporary fix at best. These additives can sometimes work, but they are not a substitute for proper sealing. If the cases were improperly sealed, the best long-term solution is to have the cases split and resealed correctly.

In summary, switch back to the 10W-30 oil and consider addressing the sealing issue more permanently rather than relying on additives. Fully synthetic 15W40 diesel oil is great for heavy trucks but not ideal for your Banshee.

Just randomly doing up a 14 year old post for what purpose???

[doxaimpex]

On 12/7/2010 at 7:55 AM, shoopie said:

some of you are going to call me an idiot. but i changed the oil in my banshee today because i had a nice leak so i drained what was left (barely any) and re-filled. only thing i had on hand was some heavy truck oil. i think 15W-40. i ran it for like 5 minutes just to get it cycled and it seemed like it didn't want to rev as high as it should and when i engaged the clutch it was definitely still grabbing a good bit and it was pretty hard to shift into neutral. should i definitely switch back to the bel ray i had in it, which i think was 10W-30?

also do any of the stop-leak oil additives work well in banshee motors? i think someone split the cases in this bike before i got it and didn't seal it right so now that its getting colder the metal in my case is contracting and leaking more because it never really leaked before except for the occasional drips.

 

-Ryan

Using the 15W-40 truck oil in your Banshee may have caused the clutch and shifting issues you're experiencing. I recommend switching back to the Bel-Ray 10W-30, which is better suited for your bike’s engine and clutch system. As for the leak, stop-leak additives might help temporarily, but since you suspect the cases weren't sealed properly, getting them professionally resealed would be a more reliable fix. Also, remember that using the correct oil is as important for your engine as using the right "i-shift transmission oil" in other vehicles with specialized transmissions.

[doxaimpex]

Using 15W-40 in your Banshee can cause clutch and shifting issues due to its higher viscosity. It’s best to switch back to the 10W-30 Bel-Ray oil. Heavy oils can cause problems similar to using the wrong transmission oil in trucks, like not using I Shift Transmission Oil in an I-Shift system. As for stop-leak additives, they can be a temporary fix but won’t address the root cause. If the cases weren’t sealed properly, it's better to fix them correctly.