Sandfrk33 Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Thinking about building a hillshooter out of my play bike. I want to put the $$$ in the motor and not in bling. No powder coating, no chrome, no polishing, just fast. I am leaning toward a 10 mil cub. What kind of hp can I expect from a full drag ported cub motor? Is there a different set up with similiar hp I should look in to?I am new to this and would like some opinions. I started a wish list to get me motivated. Starting with the bottom end, I need 10 mil crank with tz and max load bearings. Get cases trenched. Override trans. What else in the bottom end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VegasJeff Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Oh shit ! That twister run gave you the bug...your gonna need a billet basket, lockout,adj timing plate, pancake bearing and maybe a pvl or lightened flywheel depending on your choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06specialedition Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Thinking about building a hillshooter out of my play bike. I want to put the $$$ in the motor and not in bling. No powder coating, no chrome, no polishing, just fast. I am leaning toward a 10 mil cub. What kind of hp can I expect from a full drag ported cub motor? Is there a different set up with similiar hp I should look in to?I am new to this and would like some opinions. I started a wish list to get me motivated. Starting with the bottom end, I need 10 mil crank with tz and max load bearings. Get cases trenched. Override trans. What else in the bottom end? Let me know if you end up parting out some stuff on your bike when you change parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandfrk33 Posted November 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 Oh shit ! That twister run gave you the bug...your gonna need a billet basket, lockout,adj timing plate, pancake bearing and maybe a pvl or lightened flywheel depending on your choice. I knew better than to ride his bike. Adrenaline rush from hell. I'm trying to figure out what else I need inside the cases. This is going to be a very slow build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandfrk33 Posted November 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 Let me know if you end up parting out some stuff on your bike when you change parts. What are you looking for? I might start taking her apart next week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06specialedition Posted November 4, 2010 Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 What are you looking for? I might start taking her apart next week I've been keeping my eyes out for a +4 or +6 swinger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 Oh shit ! That twister run gave you the bug...your gonna need a billet basket, lockout,adj timing plate, pancake bearing and maybe a pvl or lightened flywheel depending on your choice. That all sounds good, but I'd just go with a stock flywheel. Just my $0.02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandfrk33 Posted December 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 Few more questions guys. I am building this bike for fun. If I was going to compete, are there different classes for stock / modded frames? Or is it just engine size? I'm sure I'll be asking a lot more later. Thanks for any input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilJockey481 Posted December 3, 2010 Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 Its been my experience that they run everyone together. You can't go wrong with a solid 10mm cub they r the most economical. Great power. I myself have rode a 10 cub in a stock chassislightend with a 14 over arm and ran a best of a 3.93. It had more in it with some gearing changes. Stock frame lightend up you will be a happy camper. I dont know if id be out jumping it in the dunes tho. Choose a reputable builder, Fast,Rdz,k&t,Titan,Hjr. This is to be sure they give you proper set up. Squish, fuel type,intake size. And of course who you would like to port it. And what type of porting. I myself have a 4mm cub and wish I had the coin to put a 10mm together. just my 2 cents hope its helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlevasseur Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 Its been my experience that they run everyone together. You can't go wrong with a solid 10mm cub they r the most economical. Great power. I myself have rode a 10 cub in a stock chassislightend with a 14 over arm and ran a best of a 3.93. It had more in it with some gearing changes. Stock frame lightend up you will be a happy camper. I dont know if id be out jumping it in the dunes tho. Choose a reputable builder, Fast,Rdz,k&t,Titan,Hjr. This is to be sure they give you proper set up. Squish, fuel type,intake size. And of course who you would like to port it. And what type of porting. I myself have a 4mm cub and wish I had the coin to put a 10mm together. just my 2 cents hope its helpful If your looking for a hillshooter build, I don't think it matters its mostly just outlaw racing, or atleast around here in oregon. From my experiece, if your building a strictly hillshooter bike, one of my main focuses would be dropping weight and setup. You can make a 4 mil cub keep up with a lot of bigger motor bikes if it is set up right. Any one of the cub configerations are great. If it was me I would get a JJandA axle, a light swingarm and front end. some frame mods like chromoly subframe and possible stretching out the front. probably a 4, 7 or 10 cub on alky, out of frames and overide built right with lock out, straight cuts.... ect ec.t.. Oh ya, works or marvin shocks to drop some more weight and a good set of paddles like 22-11-8 superlites.... JMO.. But the list could be endless, depending on your pockets and what your really looking for. Good luck man and keep us in the loop!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlevasseur Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 Thinking about building a hillshooter out of my play bike. I want to put the $$$ in the motor and not in bling. No powder coating, no chrome, no polishing, just fast. I am leaning toward a 10 mil cub. What kind of hp can I expect from a full drag ported cub motor? Is there a different set up with similiar hp I should look in to?I am new to this and would like some opinions. I started a wish list to get me motivated. Starting with the bottom end, I need 10 mil crank with tz and max load bearings. Get cases trenched. Override trans. What else in the bottom end? I would also look into straight cut gears and a lock out. Your going to need a clutch basket mod to run more clutch fibers or a billet basket, you should be able to get away without the billet basket. a 10 cub is going to be more spendy then a 4 mil cub and HP should be close. The 10 mill will have more torque though. On a 4 mill you don't need and trenching to the cases and the cost of the crank is probably about half depending on what brand you go with. I would look in to an overide tranny which means you just need to get yours cut. As far as dyno numbers on cubs Ive seen 4-10 mill cubs go from 95-115 hp on the dyno but the numbers don't really mean much but just for tuning in my opinion. Welcome to the addiction!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted December 14, 2010 Report Share Posted December 14, 2010 just buy my 485 cheeta in the LSR chassis and be done.. 10 mills are sweet. i'd look into a cheeta. use matton baskets, 1-5 override N down ( more gearing options if you need them) bla bla bla there is a LOT you will need to build one from scratch. frame set up is cruicial. if your frame cannot handle the powa its just going to be very hard to ride if you have to get in and out of it a lot your going to loose. also if your just spinning the tires in the sand your going to loose. sometimes it takes a few years to get it all dialed in and working welll. seems in recent years peep's just sell the bike after it dosent work and build bigger and bigger and bigger to just realize their mistake and wish for the lil motors back ( 4 mills, 10 mills)/. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandfrk33 Posted December 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 And so it begins. I started cutting the frame today. My neighbor is a fabricator and I enlisted him as my engineer(free of charge, minus beer and materials). We are cutting the front end off and building a single A arm set up. I've decided on a 10mil cub. Motor is already apart and ready to get trenched and port matched. I'll keep you guys posted and put up some pics when we start welding. Thanks for the help, I'm sure I'll have more questions when I start the re-assembly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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