yosi Posted October 29, 2010 Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 Hey just like to start by saying im new to this forum, and ive been reading some posts up here and i think its great. Now to my problem with my banshee i recently bought, it wont fire at all when trying to kick start it. it will only start when i give it a push start then it runs but not very well, as in it wont idle and i have to keep the choke open. But once it starts to rev in the higher rps it is fine, just wont idle. once it dies it can be started by the kick start in one kick and holding the choke open but starts to bog down again, and cannot be strated after that. to me i think it might be something to do with the fuel not entering the engine (dirty carburetor) or the jetting mabey (Im at sea level). Was also thinking about doing a compression test but would just like to get another opinion first. I am running fmf gold series pipes with silencers, not sure what the jetting is (planning on cleaning carby and finding out), has a K & N air filter with outerwair and no air box lid, has new spark plugs, running 32:1, and the TORS have been disconnected but the boxes above the carburetor are still attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted October 29, 2010 Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 Hey just like to start by saying im new to this forum, and ive been reading some posts up here and i think its great. Now to my problem with my banshee i recently bought, it wont fire at all when trying to kick start it. it will only start when i give it a push start then it runs but not very well, as in it wont idle and i have to keep the choke open. But once it starts to rev in the higher rps it is fine, just wont idle. once it dies it can be started by the kick start in one kick and holding the choke open but starts to bog down again, and cannot be strated after that. to me i think it might be something to do with the fuel not entering the engine (dirty carburetor) or the jetting mabey (Im at sea level). Was also thinking about doing a compression test but would just like to get another opinion first. I am running fmf gold series pipes with silencers, not sure what the jetting is (planning on cleaning carby and finding out), has a K & N air filter with outerwair and no air box lid, has new spark plugs, running 32:1, and the TORS have been disconnected but the boxes above the carburetor are still attached. First, do you have the aluminum adapter plate in your airbox for the filter? If you don't and you don't run the lid, you are sucking dirt in past the filter because the lid is what holds the filter tight to the airbox in the stock setup. Second, check your compression- use a high quality compression gauge, remove both plugs, hold the throttle wide open and kick it until the needle quits climbing.Stock bikes should be around 120 if it is below 100 it might be time for a top end. If the compression is good, then clean your carbs and check your jetting. Let us know what your setup is- pipes, porting, compression, altitude and any other modifications to the bike. When you clean the carbs, only take 1 apart at a time as some parts are different between the left and right carbs. Also make sure the black hose between the carbs is there. It is not the fuel line, it is directly inline with the choke on the inside of the left carb, it is how the choke works for the right carb and if it is not there it will cause an air leak and poor running and hard starting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yosi Posted October 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 Hey thanks for the reply. i do have the black hose running between the two carbs but im not too sure what you are talking about with the aluminium adaptor plate. This is a link of what my air box looks like exactly (not my bike though). http://www.passionracingengines.com/images/Airbox.jpg sorry pic isnt the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yosi Posted October 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 Oh and jw about the compression test, you say to take out both plugs, where as some otehr people say to keep one in. will it vary the end result, and what is teh correct way. much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midlifecrisis Posted October 30, 2010 Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 Oh and jw about the compression test, you say to take out both plugs, where as some otehr people say to keep one in. will it vary the end result, and what is teh correct way. much appreciated. You are supposed to keep 1 of the plugs in when you do the test, otherwise all of the pressure that you are trying to read will escape out of the open plug chamber. Also, the aluminum plate that attaches to the carb side of the airbox on the inside usually made by pro flow is what hes talking about. The filter slides onto a cage which is part of that plate, on an aftermarket setup. If yours is stock, the aluminum plate wont be there, and the filter will slide into a plastic groove moulded into the front of the airbox, and can rattle loose under bumpy conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yosi Posted October 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 (edited) ok thanks for the info i understand now and yes i do have teh aluminium plate installed. i have also just done a compresion test and looks like i will need the top end done because my left cylinder has compression of around 97 and my right cylinder compression is around 94 PSI. Unless it has something to do with the my reeds being broken or damaged letting the air to flow back out through them?? I also thought i heard some air escaping when i was doing the compression on my right cylinder thought it might have been that i didnt tighten the spark plug or the connection to the compression tester well enough so i tightened it and still heard it? might of just been the air passing through the connection tube. Do a leak down test mabey or just get the top end done and a new head gasket put in and then check for leaks? Anyone one know how much a top and costs on one of these engines and what the best setup will be. King regards Edited October 30, 2010 by yosi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darthwall Posted October 30, 2010 Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 I would defiinatly open it up if it doesn't kick give it a shot the problem is these are like crack very addictive get a clymers manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yosi Posted October 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 (edited) ive got the banshee service manual that you can download from one of the threads on this forum. Is that the same as the clymers manual?? When you say open it do u mean the engine and check out everything?? or you mean the carbys. And i also done the compression test with a cold engine..... so if were to do it with a warm engine the compression would rise mabey 5 psi in each cylinder?/ i think haha. thanks Edited October 30, 2010 by yosi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darthwall Posted October 30, 2010 Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 if it doesn't kick over take the clutch cover off and inspect the internals if its an older motor might as well freshen it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yosi Posted October 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 What should i look out for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darthwall Posted October 30, 2010 Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 I would look at the kicker gear and idler sometimes the spring in the kicker gets worn out or not installed right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdzbangshee Posted October 30, 2010 Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 i would start with the busted reeds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yosi Posted October 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 yeh i might start with the reeds and while im at it clean out both carbys then got check the internal. Should i go with v force reeds if mine are damaged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midlifecrisis Posted October 30, 2010 Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 i would start with the busted reeds X2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midlifecrisis Posted October 30, 2010 Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 yeh i might start with the reeds and while im at it clean out both carbys then got check the internal. Should i go with v force reeds if mine are damaged? which ever manufacturer you like, but a cracked reed might be your issue. Get a Clymers manual! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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