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Hey guys how much can does a yfz front end go for complete.

 

 

I did a lot of looking on the internet and it took me about three weeks to get everything but I think I got the front end about as cheap as you can get it. I guess I'm the first one who has posted anything on HQ about using the 2007-2010 YFZ-450R parts So far so good. Just so you guys know the 2010 a arms need a little more work. The top a arms do not fit right in place you have to cut or have them milled also but its no big deal. about 1/4 inch has to be cut. So you have four additional cuts. and you gain +3 on each side vs +2 with the 06 and bellow years. If any of you guys have any questions on the new YFZ-450R front suspension conversion message me and I will be happy to answer any questions I can. Heres the items, year, and price list on the items for the suspension I bought.

 

1. 2010 YFZ-450R a arms and tie rods: $61.00 Shipping: $33.75

2. 2009 YFZ-450R Shocks: $79.08 Shipping: $12.92

3. 2009 YFZ-450R Hubs and rotors $65.00 Shipping: $10.70

4. 2009 YFZ-450R Spindles and steering knuckles $35.00 Shipping: $15.95

5. New Full Flight +3 Tie Rods and Tie Rod Ends $94.99 Shipping: $ 7.00

6. 2009 YFZ-450R Complete Steering Stem $31.50 Shipping: $10.00

7. 2010 OEM YFZ-450R Front Brake Hoses $21.95 Shipping: $ 5.00

 

TOTAL $388.52 Shipping: $95.32

 

Grand Total $483.84

 

I bought everything off ebay the a arms had 1.6 hours on them, the shocks had been used but they were still in great shape the just had a couple of nicks in the silver paint that covers the springs. By using the newer YFZ-450R parts my 2004 Banshee's ride height remained the same, it didn't lower it at all. I went ahead and ordered the spindles, hubs and rotors from the same seller, those items came off the same quad. After I put the a arms on I noticed I had a bent stock spindle, and I didn't like the angle the ball joints were in so I went ahead and swapped those out along with the hubs and rotors that I couldn't even tell had been used. To make the rear of the bike match the new and improved front width I bought a set of Forward Power-Sport's + 3 Solid balanced aluminum rear spacers for the OEM rear axle. I plan on buying a 3+3 Dura-Blue Axle as soon as I run across one for the money slightly used on Ebay or Craigslist. But these wheel spacers work great I haven't had any problem out of them what so ever.

 

I had a machine shop here in Kentucky "Qualex" mill the YFZ-450R a arms to fit the Banshee frame, turn the a arm spacers, and three sets of sleeves out of Forged T-304 Stainless Steel. On the a arm spacers I had them go ahead and drill and tap a hole in the a arm spacer and install a grease fittings so I could keep that end of bearing lubed. This was not necessary, but I thought it could be beneficial.

 

I'm not sure how much this would cost the average person, my dad is the Purchasing Manager at Link-Belt Construction Equipment and he is friends with the owner of the machine shop, so they did all my machine work on my a arms and other needed hard ware for free. The sleeves I had turned worked out great also, those go in the mounting holes on the spindles, and steering stem to take the slack out that I had from using the Full Flight + 3 Banshee Tie Rods and Tie Rod Ends. This would not be necessary if you were using the stock YZF-450R Tie Rods and Tie Rad Ends. I couldn't find a new set of YZF-450R Tie Rod Ends at any of the local ATV dealers, and the stock Tie Rods seemed cheap to me. So I contacted the guys at Full Flight and had the ship me there +3 Red Tie Rod Kit. They were great to deal with I wanted to ride that Friday so they upgraded the shipping to overnight UPS Shipping for free.

 

I put a small amount of clear all condition heat tempered silicon on the outside of the Spindle sleeve to hold it in place. Then I filled the inter area with Nevastane HT/AW 2 a full synthetic grease to allow the Tie Rod Ends to move freely. I use in all my grease fittings. This stuff is great if you get it in you cloths you can't wash it out . Every lubricant used on the entire bike is synthetic, even the brake fluid is full synthetic D.O.T. 4. This is only the second post I have posted on the HQ Forums, and I don't have a Sig filled out yet so I'm going to past my build sheet to this reply. I hope my explanation on the 2008-2010 YZF-450R Front Suspension conversion will help other Banshee riders out that are planning to upgrade there front ends. Message me if you have any questions.

 

Jim Thacker

 

This project has cost me a lot of money, but I'm addicted to Banshee's now. I used to like working on sports cars and diesel trucks in my spare time, but not any more Quads are 1000 times easier and more entertaining to work on. I didn't build this Banshee to be the fastest Banshee out there, I built this bike to trail ride, and MX race with my brother on his 1989 Honda TRX-250R. My number one concern when putting this set up together was reliability. A mater a fact I searched the internet high and low until I found a late model Banshee that was completely stock because I thought it would be most reliable in that form, boy was I wrong!!!! This is my build list/upgrade sheet for what I consider to be the ultimate Yamaha Banshee, I'm going to post pictures as soon as possible, and I think you guys will like what I've done, all except the Plastic, I know you HQ'ers hate the Maier custom plastic, but I wanted a updated look that will make people scratch there head. I fixed the flaws that Maier had on the front end (the open area in front of the radiator by buying and modding a new 1986 Honda TRX-250R radiator shroud to force air through the radiator and fill in the void area, It turned out great! It looks like it rolled off the show room floor that way, and I still have my OEM Plastic with new Flame OEM factory graphics hanging in the garage if I decide to go back to the classic look from time to time. :confused:

 

 

Lawrenceburg Kentucky, 40342

 

*Elevation: 787/240

 

Banshee Engine Moddifications:

 

1. Bore:.020

 

2. Crank: Hod Rods Forged Replacement Crank.

 

3. Pistons: Wiseco Forged Ultra lite Aluminum.

 

4. Exhaust: Paul Turner Mids/Fat Boy Silencers.

 

5. Filter: Ready high performance Air Filter. With stock air Box lid ON.

 

6. Reeds: Boysen Duel Stage Power Reeds. In OEM cages.

 

7. Head: Trinity's Cool Head and 20cc domes.

 

8. Jetting: Vito's Stage 3 Jet Kit.

 

9.Plugs: NGK NBR8EIX Iridium Plugs.

 

10. Cooling Upgrades: Mod Quad Billet water pump impeller flows 3 times more volume, 30% bigger Aluminum radiator, Mod Quad 2"l Billet inline coolers, Trinity's Stage 5 Cool Head.

 

11. Fuel/Oil: 32-1 pump gasoline 93 octane plus half bottle of 5pt Octane boost per 5 gallons, and Klotz Techno-Plate 2 stroke oil.

 

12.Suspension: Full 2010 YZF-450R front end (a arms, shocks, spindles, steering stem, Full Flight + 3 Banshee Tie Rod Kit, Fly Racing YZ4-450R Handle bars, Qualex's Custom A Arm Spacers spindle sleeves. Rear: Forward Power Sports 3 inch solid rear wheel spacers, OEM rear Shock.

 

13.Gearing: Drive Systems F=13 R=42 Forged Sprockets, and Chain.

 

14.Clutch: YZF-1000 Clutch Conversion By Drive-Line, Barnett Dirt Digger Basket (good for 75+hp.

 

15.Appearance: Maier Black Custom "Raptor" Style front finders, and OEM Style Black rear replacements, OEM Heal Guards. Enjoy White Flame Graphic Kit, OEM Yamaha Wave Runner Gel emblems on tank and nose.

 

16:Other: DG Six Pack Rack, DG Full Body Skids, DG Front and Side Frame Protectors, DG Fat Boy Nerf Bars, DG YZF-450R Fat Boy A Arm Skid Plates, DG Baja Full Rear Swing Arm Skid with chain cover, Fly Handle Bars, Jaws Shark Mouth Bumper, Eye Headlight Covers, Magnum Boost Bottle, Adjustable Timing Plate + - 10, T.O.R.S. Delete Kit, Trail Tech Vector with Trail Tech Handle Bar Pod, Mod Quad Folding Shifter, Douglas Polished Rims OE Size, 20X11-9 AT-111 Six Ply "Hole Shot" Tires, Rear: 21 X 7-10 AT-111 Six Ply "Hole Shot" Tires Front, Custom Radiator Shroud, Twin Spectre Crome/Glass Fuel Filters.

 

17.Polished Parts: Mod Quad 3 Piece Starter Cover, Clutch Cover, Water Pump Cover, Carburetors and Caps, Choke Knob, ON/OFF Gas Switch and Plate, Rear Brake Reservoir Cap, Boost Bottle, Head, Fuel Filters, Reed Cages, Stainless Steal Braided Hoses fuel lines and brake cables, Polished Stainless Bolt Kit.

 

18.Lubricants: Klotz Synthetic Gear Case Oil in transmission mixed with 10% Lucas Oil Stabilizer, Klotz Techno-Plate Synthetic 2 stroke oil, Nevastane HT/AW 2 Full Synthetic Grease in all fittings and joints, ATV Blue Engine Ice Antifreeze, Prestone Synthetic D.O.T. Brake Fluid .

 

:cheers:

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I did a lot of looking on the internet and it took me about three weeks to get everything but I think I got the front end about as cheap as you can get it. I guess I'm the first one who has posted anything on HQ about using the 2007-2010 YFZ-450R parts So far so good. Just so you guys know the 2010 a arms need a little more work. The top a arms do not fit right in place you have to cut or have them milled also but its no big deal. about 1/4 inch has to be cut. So you have four additional cuts. and you gain +3 on each side vs +2 with the 06 and bellow years. If any of you guys have any questions on the new YFZ-450R front suspension conversion message me and I will be happy to answer any questions I can. Heres the items, year, and price list on the items for the suspension I bought.

 

1. 2010 YFZ-450R a arms and tie rods: $61.00 Shipping: $33.75

2. 2009 YFZ-450R Shocks: $79.08 Shipping: $12.92

3. 2009 YFZ-450R Hubs and rotors $65.00 Shipping: $10.70

4. 2009 YFZ-450R Spindles and steering knuckles $35.00 Shipping: $15.95

5. New Full Flight +3 Tie Rods and Tie Rod Ends $94.99 Shipping: $ 7.00

6. 2009 YFZ-450R Complete Steering Stem $31.50 Shipping: $10.00

7. 2010 OEM YFZ-450R Front Brake Hoses $21.95 Shipping: $ 5.00

 

TOTAL $388.52 Shipping: $95.32

 

Grand Total $483.84

 

I bought everything off ebay the a arms had 1.6 hours on them, the shocks had been used but they were still in great shape the just had a couple of nicks in the silver paint that covers the springs. By using the newer YFZ-450R parts my 2004 Banshee's ride height remained the same, it didn't lower it at all. I went ahead and ordered the spindles, hubs and rotors from the same seller, those items came off the same quad. After I put the a arms on I noticed I had a bent stock spindle, and I didn't like the angle the ball joints were in so I went ahead and swapped those out along with the hubs and rotors that I couldn't even tell had been used. To make the rear of the bike match the new and improved front width I bought a set of Forward Power-Sport's + 3 Solid balanced aluminum rear spacers for the OEM rear axle. I plan on buying a 3+3 Dura-Blue Axle as soon as I run across one for the money slightly used on Ebay or Craigslist. But these wheel spacers work great I haven't had any problem out of them what so ever.

 

I had a machine shop here in Kentucky "Qualex" mill the YFZ-450R a arms to fit the Banshee frame, turn the a arm spacers, and three sets of sleeves out of Forged T-304 Stainless Steel. On the a arm spacers I had them go ahead and drill and tap a hole in the a arm spacer and install a grease fittings so I could keep that end of bearing lubed. This was not necessary, but I thought it could be beneficial.

 

I'm not sure how much this would cost the average person, my dad is the Purchasing Manager at Link-Belt Construction Equipment and he is friends with the owner of the machine shop, so they did all my machine work on my a arms and other needed hard ware for free. The sleeves I had turned worked out great also, those go in the mounting holes on the spindles, and steering stem to take the slack out that I had from using the Full Flight + 3 Banshee Tie Rods and Tie Rod Ends. This would not be necessary if you were using the stock YZF-450R Tie Rods and Tie Rad Ends. I couldn't find a new set of YZF-450R Tie Rod Ends at any of the local ATV dealers, and the stock Tie Rods seemed cheap to me. So I contacted the guys at Full Flight and had the ship me there +3 Red Tie Rod Kit. They were great to deal with I wanted to ride that Friday so they upgraded the shipping to overnight UPS Shipping for free.

 

I put a small amount of clear all condition heat tempered silicon on the outside of the Spindle sleeve to hold it in place. Then I filled the inter area with Nevastane HT/AW 2 a full synthetic grease to allow the Tie Rod Ends to move freely. I use in all my grease fittings. This stuff is great if you get it in you cloths you can't wash it out . Every lubricant used on the entire bike is synthetic, even the brake fluid is full synthetic D.O.T. 4. This is only the second post I have posted on the HQ Forums, and I don't have a Sig filled out yet so I'm going to past my build sheet to this reply. I hope my explanation on the 2008-2010 YZF-450R Front Suspension conversion will help other Banshee riders out that are planning to upgrade there front ends. Message me if you have any questions.

 

Jim Thacker

 

This project has cost me a lot of money, but I'm addicted to Banshee's now. I used to like working on sports cars and diesel trucks in my spare time, but not any more Quads are 1000 times easier and more entertaining to work on. I didn't build this Banshee to be the fastest Banshee out there, I built this bike to trail ride, and MX race with my brother on his 1989 Honda TRX-250R. My number one concern when putting this set up together was reliability. A mater a fact I searched the internet high and low until I found a late model Banshee that was completely stock because I thought it would be most reliable in that form, boy was I wrong!!!! This is my build list/upgrade sheet for what I consider to be the ultimate Yamaha Banshee, I'm going to post pictures as soon as possible, and I think you guys will like what I've done, all except the Plastic, I know you HQ'ers hate the Maier custom plastic, but I wanted a updated look that will make people scratch there head. I fixed the flaws that Maier had on the front end (the open area in front of the radiator by buying and modding a new 1986 Honda TRX-250R radiator shroud to force air through the radiator and fill in the void area, It turned out great! It looks like it rolled off the show room floor that way, and I still have my OEM Plastic with new Flame OEM factory graphics hanging in the garage if I decide to go back to the classic look from time to time. :confused:

 

 

Lawrenceburg Kentucky, 40342

 

*Elevation: 787/240

 

Banshee Engine Moddifications:

 

1. Bore:.020

 

2. Crank: Hod Rods Forged Replacement Crank.

 

3. Pistons: Wiseco Forged Ultra lite Aluminum.

 

4. Exhaust: Paul Turner Mids/Fat Boy Silencers.

 

5. Filter: Ready high performance Air Filter. With stock air Box lid ON.

 

6. Reeds: Boysen Duel Stage Power Reeds. In OEM cages.

 

7. Head: Trinity's Cool Head and 20cc domes.

 

8. Jetting: Vito's Stage 3 Jet Kit.

 

9.Plugs: NGK NBR8EIX Iridium Plugs.

 

10. Cooling Upgrades: Mod Quad Billet water pump impeller flows 3 times more volume, 30% bigger Aluminum radiator, Mod Quad 2"l Billet inline coolers, Trinity's Stage 5 Cool Head.

 

11. Fuel/Oil: 32-1 pump gasoline 93 octane plus half bottle of 5pt Octane boost per 5 gallons, and Klotz Techno-Plate 2 stroke oil.

 

12.Suspension: Full 2010 YZF-450R front end (a arms, shocks, spindles, steering stem, Full Flight + 3 Banshee Tie Rod Kit, Fly Racing YZ4-450R Handle bars, Qualex's Custom A Arm Spacers spindle sleeves. Rear: Forward Power Sports 3 inch solid rear wheel spacers, OEM rear Shock.

 

13.Gearing: Drive Systems F=13 R=42 Forged Sprockets, and Chain.

 

14.Clutch: YZF-1000 Clutch Conversion By Drive-Line, Barnett Dirt Digger Basket (good for 75+hp.

 

15.Appearance: Maier Black Custom "Raptor" Style front finders, and OEM Style Black rear replacements, OEM Heal Guards. Enjoy White Flame Graphic Kit, OEM Yamaha Wave Runner Gel emblems on tank and nose.

 

16:Other: DG Six Pack Rack, DG Full Body Skids, DG Front and Side Frame Protectors, DG Fat Boy Nerf Bars, DG YZF-450R Fat Boy A Arm Skid Plates, DG Baja Full Rear Swing Arm Skid with chain cover, Fly Handle Bars, Jaws Shark Mouth Bumper, Eye Headlight Covers, Magnum Boost Bottle, Adjustable Timing Plate + - 10, T.O.R.S. Delete Kit, Trail Tech Vector with Trail Tech Handle Bar Pod, Mod Quad Folding Shifter, Douglas Polished Rims OE Size, 20X11-9 AT-111 Six Ply "Hole Shot" Tires, Rear: 21 X 7-10 AT-111 Six Ply "Hole Shot" Tires Front, Custom Radiator Shroud, Twin Spectre Crome/Glass Fuel Filters.

 

17.Polished Parts: Mod Quad 3 Piece Starter Cover, Clutch Cover, Water Pump Cover, Carburetors and Caps, Choke Knob, ON/OFF Gas Switch and Plate, Rear Brake Reservoir Cap, Boost Bottle, Head, Fuel Filters, Reed Cages, Stainless Steal Braided Hoses fuel lines and brake cables, Polished Stainless Bolt Kit.

 

18.Lubricants: Klotz Synthetic Gear Case Oil in transmission mixed with 10% Lucas Oil Stabilizer, Klotz Techno-Plate Synthetic 2 stroke oil, Nevastane HT/AW 2 Full Synthetic Grease in all fittings and joints, ATV Blue Engine Ice Antifreeze, Prestone Synthetic D.O.T. Brake Fluid .

 

:cheers:

 

Thanks man ill probably do that does it make a difference when u. Turn and stuff I'm actually put this on my dune bike

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Thanks man ill probably do that does it make a difference when u. Turn and stuff I'm actually put this on my dune bike

 

 

No actually my Banshee turns better, I don't know if its where I had bent Spindles or what, but I had to be extremely careful running the stock suspension with the Paul Turner Mids because the front tire would wedge against the Pipe and you would have to literally jurk the handle bars to get it loose. I very happy with my YZF suspension conversion. I read a post on a Blue Trax forum from a guy saying it was a hick rigged set up. He is a dumb ass :yank::yank::yank: , it works great. IMO it is a good Idea to get all the suspension parts not just the a arms. Go ahead and get the a arms, shocks, tie rods, tie rod ends, spindles,hubs brakes, brake lines, steering stem and the handle bars. If you don't get it all it doesn't work as well, I found that out the hard way. I bought the a arms and ran 660 shocks for 2 days; then I found ran across the YZF Shocks and that made night and day difference, and with out the spindles and the rest of the YFZ set up it works but over a period time it will wear out and begin to fail or break. Good luck watch Ebay, you'll eventually run up on what your looking for at a decant price. Hell you might get lucky and find a racer who wants to upgrade his YFZ-450R and get it all cheap at one time. Go for it though you wont me disappointed!!! :cheers:

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No actually my Banshee turns better, I don't know if its where I had bent Spindles or what, but I had to be extremely careful running the stock suspension with the Paul Turner Mids because the front tire would wedge against the Pipe and you would have to literally jurk the handle bars to get it loose. I very happy with my YZF suspension conversion. I read a post on a Blue Trax forum from a guy saying it was a hick rigged set up. He is a dumb ass :yank::yank::yank: , it works great. IMO it is a good Idea to get all the suspension parts not just the a arms. Go ahead and get the a arms, shocks, tie rods, tie rod ends, spindles,hubs brakes, brake lines, steering stem and the handle bars. If you don't get it all it doesn't work as well, I found that out the hard way. I bought the a arms and ran 660 shocks for 2 days; then I found ran across the YZF Shocks and that made night and day difference, and with out the spindles and the rest of the YFZ set up it works but over a period time it will wear out and begin to fail or break. Good luck watch Ebay, you'll eventually run up on what your looking for at a decant price. Hell you might get lucky and find a racer who wants to upgrade his YFZ-450R and get it all cheap at one time. Go for it though you wont me disappointed!!! :cheers:

 

Kool man thanks a lot for the info I'm gonna buy the stuff tomorrow and go to the. Dunes

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