06specialedition Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Right now I'm running some cheap ATF type F. I haven't heard people talk much about the flex drive, Has anyone had any experience using this: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=398&navTitle=Chemicals&webCatId=23&prodFamilyId=3118 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12 0 Clock P I M P Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Right now I'm running some cheap ATF type F. I haven't heard people talk much about the flex drive, Has anyone had any experience using this: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=398&navTitle=Chemicals&webCatId=23&prodFamilyId=3118 its reviews are good i would try it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 I run it. It seems to stays looking cleaner longer. The only other oil that I have tried that compairs is silkolene comp gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert.b.west Posted October 15, 2010 Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 I use it and like it. Never had any problem with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted October 15, 2010 Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 I have been using it for about 18 years in my Banshees. First I used motor oil like the book says, it shifted like crap and there was glitter in the oil when I drained it. I evev split the cases but found no abnormal wear or the source of the glitter. Then I tried ATF, it still shifted like crap and there was still glitter. Then I tried BelRay GearSaver, it shifted OK and the glitter was less. Then my dealer was out of GearSaver so I tried the Honda gear oil, it shifted so bad that I drained it out after 1 short ride. After that I tried the Flev Drive 30 because I was already using Klotz premix oil and liked it. With the Klotz it shifts awesome, there is no glitter in the oil when I drain it and I have never lost a clutch,bearing, shift fork, or had a clutch ball weld to the pushrod(no pancake bearing). The only draw back is it is spendy and I have to mail order it from Rocky Mt. as no local vendors carry it. I have an hourmeter on my bike and change it every 20 hours, it usually looks pretty good coming out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06specialedition Posted October 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 I have been using it for about 18 years in my Banshees. First I used motor oil like the book says, it shifted like crap and there was glitter in the oil when I drained it. I evev split the cases but found no abnormal wear or the source of the glitter. Then I tried ATF, it still shifted like crap and there was still glitter. Then I tried BelRay GearSaver, it shifted OK and the glitter was less. Then my dealer was out of GearSaver so I tried the Honda gear oil, it shifted so bad that I drained it out after 1 short ride. After that I tried the Flev Drive 30 because I was already using Klotz premix oil and liked it. With the Klotz it shifts awesome, there is no glitter in the oil when I drain it and I have never lost a clutch,bearing, shift fork, or had a clutch ball weld to the pushrod(no pancake bearing). The only draw back is it is spendy and I have to mail order it from Rocky Mt. as no local vendors carry it. I have an hourmeter on my bike and change it every 20 hours, it usually looks pretty good coming out. Thats very good to know. I run klotz premix as well, and I figured you cant go wrong with any of there products. Rocky MT is only about 45 min from my house so I normally just drive there to pick it up! sounds like I'll be switching Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 No offense guys...but at 11 a quart plus shipping, I can go to any local auto store and get Type F in person for 2 or 2.50 per quart. I probably change my trans fluid 2-4 times a season....not much of a saving point IMO... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06specialedition Posted October 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 No offense guys...but at 11 a quart plus shipping, I can go to any local auto store and get Type F in person for 2 or 2.50 per quart. I probably change my trans fluid 2-4 times a season....not much of a saving point IMO... Yeah I've been using cheap ATF type F and the price is sweet. This Klotz would make for an expensive trans oil change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nayr742003 Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 No complaints here but i only ride everyonce in awhile now cause of work but i use it works good for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 (edited) No offense guys...but at 11 a quart plus shipping, I can go to any local auto store and get Type F in person for 2 or 2.50 per quart. I probably change my trans fluid 2-4 times a season....not much of a saving point IMO... Well, as I said before, when I ran ATF I had all kinds of glitter in the oil when I drained it and the bike shifted like crap. Since I have been running the Klotz there is no glitter and it shifts great. Furthermore,even though none of our bike have pancake bearings, I have never had a problem with welding a clutch ball to the pushrod in my bike or the 2 Banshees we have had for the wife, or even in the kid's Blaster, and both of them like to hold the clutch in and let the bike coast down hills. Like I said, I have an hourmeter on the bike so I run it 20 hours and drain it. It could be in there even longer from the way it looks when it comes out, but oil is cheaper and easier than bearings and gears. Besides, nothing but the best for my toys. If you can't afford to buy oil, why do you own a Banshee? Edited October 19, 2010 by bansheesandrider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 I own a banshee that would cost 10 to 15K to rebuild as I have it. (And obviously I know I can't sell it for that...) I replace my clutch every other year or sometimes once a year because of the strain put on it. I change my oil a few times a year because normally I'm pulling something off or fixing something (it's a drag bike, not a trail bike that gets ridden casually) I can't see dumping 20 bucks into the ground or into a drain pan when 5 bucks worth of ATF has never given me a shifting problem in over 4 years and thousands of passes on my bike. My transmission (an override, by the way) still looks as good as the day I put it in. There's spending money wisely and spending money. I know what my bike does, I know how it runs, I know how to maintain it. IMO, it's not about saving the money, for me it's about wasting it for what I do. I know how much it costs to replace every nut, bolt and screw on my bike. I don't go off an hour meter, I go off a time slip. I can assure you I can afford to buy the oil, so I'd be careful who you talk to and how when you say something uninformed like that. I probably have as much money wrapped up in my motor as you do your whole bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KlotzBanshee Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 I don't think he meant to offend you or insinuate that you couldn't afford to run expensive oil Dave. I think what he meant was, which I have asked myself before, Why do some guys have thousands to throw at their bikes and motors and then get cheap when it comes to buying oil for that motor? I think it’s a valid question. -Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 And if that's the case, Ryan...then my apologies. But I took it personal the last line.... I don't skimp where it's important, but I don't overpay for stuff that's non-essential. I know my bike and motors/bikes overall well enough to know what works and what doesn't... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KlotzBanshee Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 (edited) And if that's the case, Ryan...then my apologies. But I took it personal the last line.... I don't skimp where it's important, but I don't overpay for stuff that's non-essential. I know my bike and motors/bikes overall well enough to know what works and what doesn't... Ain't no thang bro. I knew where you were coming from. -Ryan Edited October 19, 2010 by AssWhore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 I don't think he meant to offend you or insinuate that you couldn't afford to run expensive oil Dave. I think what he meant was, which I have asked myself before, Why do some guys have thousands to throw at their bikes and motors and then get cheap when it comes to buying oil for that motor? I think it’s a valid question. -Ryan ATF is not going cheap. It's what people run in cars that run for 50k+ miles. If you have shifting problems with ATF chances are it isn't the oil's fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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