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removing shock springs?


theoriginal87

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Ok so i just picked up a nice set of works dual rates with ressi's and the springs on them are abit worn looking and would like to paint or pc them to match my bike and was wondering how you go about removing the springs?? so if anybody can help me out it would be grealty appreciated. :cheers:

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Ok so i just picked up a nice set of works dual rates with ressi's and the springs on them are abit worn looking and would like to paint or pc them to match my bike and was wondering how you go about removing the springs?? so if anybody can help me out it would be grealty appreciated. :cheers:

The easiest and safest way is with a spring compressor, but you can do it with a big flathead and a vice.

 

Put the shock in the vice, upside down (so the res line is on the bottom), you will see the spring retainer (or hat) on the end of the shaft by the rod end. You will also see a little notch, about 3/4" wide. Slide the bump stop down on the shaft so you can get a flathead screwdriver right up against the shaft in that little notch. Pry down, and wear some REALLY heavy leather gloves and slide the spring hat out. Either pull the screwdriver out quickly, and run... or slowly let it back up, and you've got the springs off. I don't recommend doing it this way, as it's stupid, dangerous, and can destroy fresh paint or PC on the springs, but it's really the only way to get them off without the right spring compressor.

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Also, since you just bought used shocks, it's a good idea to have them rebuilt. PM me if you want info on having those rebuilt.

I probably would but the shocks seem to be i really good condition with no leaks and they compress really smoothly and ride well but the springs have some chips and scratches in the paint on the springs. Plus i really hate the blue and white so it has to go for it to match the bike. But thanks for the advice i appreciate it and ill probably be looking into getting a spring compressor to this weekend. :headbang:

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The easiest and safest way is with a spring compressor, but you can do it with a big flathead and a vice.

 

Put the shock in the vice, upside down (so the res line is on the bottom), you will see the spring retainer (or hat) on the end of the shaft by the rod end. You will also see a little notch, about 3/4" wide. Slide the bump stop down on the shaft so you can get a flathead screwdriver right up against the shaft in that little notch. Pry down, and wear some REALLY heavy leather gloves and slide the spring hat out. Either pull the screwdriver out quickly, and run... or slowly let it back up, and you've got the springs off. I don't recommend doing it this way, as it's stupid, dangerous, and can destroy fresh paint or PC on the springs, but it's really the only way to get them off without the right spring compressor.

 

 

thats how i got my works shocks apart when i had the springs PC'd. almost lost a couple of fingers in the process! ended up havin my local stealership put the springs back on for me after PC. i would definately second the spring compressor way.

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Do you know how old the shocks are? And if so when was the last service on the shocks. Matt can back me on this one. Even if they dont show signs of leaking, I would get them serviced at the max of 2-3years of riding.

I would even say 2-3 years is too long. Shock oil gets broken down VERY easily. Most people assume that shocks are good to go, as long as they aren't leaking. That's not the case at all. If a shock is leaking it's WAYYYYY past where it needed to be serviced. For race vehicles, I service shocks every 20-30 hours of use. If you let them get to the point to where they're leaking, it's too late. Most of the time no damage has been done internally, but it happens frequently. The pistons are wrapped in teflon bands, that wear out over time (granted, on ATV shocks, they last quite a while), but that teflon that is wearing off, has to have a place to go... it wears off into the oil...

 

Also, I just thought of something. If the springs are still on there, how are you sure they compress smoothly? Also, are you sure they're still charged with nitrogen properly?

 

What colors are you going to be doing your springs? I usually do the dual rate springs for about 90 bucks, for all 4 springs. Two colors runs about 120, including stripping and prep.

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I would even say 2-3 years is too long. Shock oil gets broken down VERY easily. Most people assume that shocks are good to go, as long as they aren't leaking. That's not the case at all. If a shock is leaking it's WAYYYYY past where it needed to be serviced. For race vehicles, I service shocks every 20-30 hours of use. If you let them get to the point to where they're leaking, it's too late. Most of the time no damage has been done internally, but it happens frequently. The pistons are wrapped in teflon bands, that wear out over time (granted, on ATV shocks, they last quite a while), but that teflon that is wearing off, has to have a place to go... it wears off into the oil...

 

Also, I just thought of something. If the springs are still on there, how are you sure they compress smoothly? Also, are you sure they're still charged with nitrogen properly?

 

What colors are you going to be doing your springs? I usually do the dual rate springs for about 90 bucks, for all 4 springs. Two colors runs about 120, including stripping and prep.

 

I know what you mean now when you say you can smell the oil and feel the oil. I just got done with my rear banshee shock and WTF. Well i guess I didnt really expect much from being a 98. But what a major diff about a rebuild. I think when I took it apart, it only had maybe half of the oil left in it.:blink:

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Im looking into getting my back shock revalved soon so when i do that ill probably have the front ones rebuilt then too. So the question now is, who knows where i might get this done at reasonable price??

Edited by theoriginal87
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Im looking into getting my back shock revalved soon so when i do that ill probably have the front ones rebuilt then too. So does the question now is who knows where i might get this done at reasonable price??

 

 

I highly doubt theres anyone on this site that would talk bad about mattscesc's knowledge of suspension and or his prices and quality of work. IMHO you have to be stupid not to have him do your shocks...

 

No homo matt, lol, just sayin, i've saw yer work and you helped me man and you were 100% correct and i've witnessed your work and pricing and its very :cheers:

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+2 for Matt:cheers:

Thanks guys...

 

87, When you're ready to have those shocks done hit me up. You won't find anyone with better prices, or a better guarantee on their work out there. My shocks have been and are CURRENTLY on top SCORE class 1 cars, and winning trophy trucks for the last 6 years... I can't name any names, but you would recognize the majority of them. A few are household names. I have done TONS of shocks for other members here, and have had nothing but thrilled customers.

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Thanks guys...

 

87, When you're ready to have those shocks done hit me up. You won't find anyone with better prices, or a better guarantee on their work out there. My shocks have been and are CURRENTLY on top SCORE class 1 cars, and winning trophy trucks for the last 6 years... I can't name any names, but you would recognize the majority of them. A few are household names. I have done TONS of shocks for other members here, and have had nothing but thrilled customers.

 

Ha im sold but i needa get some cash before i can do anything... What would i be looking at for the rebuilt fronts and the revalved back??

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