Pat the one the only Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 about 65-70% of my riding is serious trails, and im redoing my shee, so id like to know a basic setup that doesnt break the bank. i wanted my shee a little wider so i did the yfz450 front end conversion, and the a-arms are a tad lower, so ill probobly need skidplates for those. also i came across a great deal on a 2 into 1 pipe and silencer, so i got it, and i know alot of the gncc riders from the late 90's early 2000's ran them, how good are they for woods? what size back tires, 20's or 22's? thanks for the ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12 0 Clock P I M P Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 about 65-70% of my riding is serious trails, and im redoing my shee, so id like to know a basic setup that doesnt break the bank. i wanted my shee a little wider so i did the yfz450 front end conversion, and the a-arms are a tad lower, so ill probobly need skidplates for those. also i came across a great deal on a 2 into 1 pipe and silencer, so i got it, and i know alot of the gncc riders from the late 90's early 2000's ran them, how good are they for woods? what size back tires, 20's or 22's? thanks for the ideas. SKids are always good for the woods........I would go 22's cause the ruts start getting deep and your 2 inches higher than the rest of the pack.....mostly.........the two into one pipe i hear is good for low-mid range so that will help in the woods....its not going to make a world of difference over twin pipes.....good luck...... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 (edited) SKids are always good for the woods........I would go 22's cause the ruts start getting deep and your 2 inches higher than the rest of the pack.....mostly.........the two into one pipe i hear is good for low-mid range so that will help in the woods....its not going to make a world of difference over twin pipes.....good luck...... Full skid plates for sure! The a-arm skids with front "wings" will help protect the arms if you catch a small tree between the wheel and bumper. The Armadillo rear skid is the thickest I've found and it's holding up really well so far - no sign of bending yet and I've been using it all season in some really rock trails. The 22's will give you 1 extra inch of ground clearance (definitely helpful) but will decrease your acceleration power by 10%. If you drop your front sprocket down to a 13T you'll get most of that back. The lower tooth count will wear faster though so you can go with the Moose chromalloy steel to make up for it, still pretty inexpensive adjustment. Adding another 2 teeth to the rear will get it all back plus a little. I'm using a Marshall o-ring chain. It is the highest tensile strength I could find (~8000lbs) and it's holding up really well. I took up the slack 1st ride after installing it and put about 25hrs on it since and it's not showing any real sign of wear yet. Whatever you do, don't use aluminum sprockets. The mud acts like grinding paste and will destroy them in no time. Edited September 30, 2010 by muggzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat the one the only Posted September 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 how much do 22's affect handling, ive only riden 1 or 2 quads with 22's (everyone ik runs 20's) and it was a craptor 660, lmao, all i have to say about that is tipsy, tipsy! how many of you run bark busters? my friend has them on his 250r, but idk how much they help on a quad. i ride alot of trails, but since im doin a build i wanted to see what you guys thought could make it better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SheezFast02 Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 I'm still working on my Trail Shee, but I have 22's and I think they're a must for trail riding. The extra ground clearance is great and IMO the handling is still decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotta_goatsfast Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 I run holeshot HDs which are 20x11 and with the side bite they have I can truck through ruts by grabbing the side rather than the bottom of them. Some of the guys I ride with gave me shit at first for not using a 22" tire, but when they struggle to make it up rutted inclines and I make good use of THEIR roost protectors flying up it, I think I'm sold! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midlifecrisis Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 I had 22s on my bike when I first got it and they were one of the first things to go. Im over 230, and the sidewalls need to be shorter or Ill peel them off on some of the stuff we come across. I now run 20s, Razr2s ,on rims with reinforcing rings, and theyve been great. Not to mention that the 22s look like a John Deere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volcrano Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 if u dont climb alot of rutted hills,run 20s.they will do fine.if u do run the hills tho id run 22s.ive gottn hung up on hills with skidplates on 20s and its not fun at all.i leave them off now,id rather tweak a rotor and bend it back then get stuck 3/4 up a nasty hill.been there done that.as for the 2 in 1 pipe.they are terrible in the woods.i dont know how people like them or they ever even sold,but ull have a little more bottom,then no mid and absolutely no top.i had one on my stocker when i got it.omg,that thing was a turd.i didnt even like riding it.almost fucked me a couple times climbing hills from the lack of a ridable powerband.sell that pipe and get some pro circuits.ull have the same bottom as the 2 in 1 and a top end that will rip ur arms off.power when u need it,thats what u want for the woods,u never know what situation is gonna present itself.grab u a chariot head with the smallest domes u can run too for power.port ur reed cages urself and run it.u can add 4 degrees timing for more power and change gearing to a 13t front for more bottom too.that will be a good woods set up.u gonna paint ur frame? lol? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squish Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 I ran the xc klaws 20s for years with a -1swingarm. I like that setup the best for woods racing. I tried the holeshot hds a very heavy tire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mofoka Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 i've got 23 razrs up front and 22 bear claws for the real soupy trails and 22 xc holeshots for more dry mixed trails. I like the clearance and my rims are offset so I don't find it tippy at all. I think if I needed to buy new tires I would go for the razr2 or try out the Kenda Kutter XC. In the rocky woody crap I ride in I'd rather they be tough than light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trick2stroke Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 I've got 22" front 21" rear holeshot GNCC's on my bike with a -1 swinger. I haven't had the chance to put them to the test but I don't think they will disappoint, pretty damn light for how beefy they are too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washburn Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 22" are horrible in my opinion... yes you get more clearance... but it makes your bike much more tippy with the side wall flexing... Ive seen a few 22" pop off the bead ripping around some trails on tight curves.... if your getting skid plates youl be fine with 20's... might hook up the odd place... but I doubt youl have to worry about it much if your cruisin at a decent speed... Me and all my buddys ride trails with 20s and works great... I agree, Ive been in some hairy, rocky roots stickin out, rutted washed out trails and hills and I find the Razr2s 20" make it eayser to get out of tough spots and they ride better. 22" are just too much, they slow you down in the longrun and the sidewalls will flex and unseat. Its not worth it. I have a full set of PRM skids but I only run the piece that goes directly underneath the frame with the hole in the middel for easy access to change your oil. It saves weight and like stated above Ide rather bend a rotor or dent my swingarm than get stuck up a steep monster hill. You want some extra power, Milled head or Noss Head with 20cc domes and +4 timing advance, good reeds for throttle responce and obviously pipes but if your on a budget skip or go light on the extra power mods cause what your really looking for in woods/trail riding is a good handeling bike which with some money can be achieved with the Banshee. First Tires, then suspension,Then Fasst Flexx bars if you can afford them, an easy pull clutch lever and motion pro cabel, +2+1 AArms give the SHEE better geometry an extended axle, Antivibe steering stem, good thick grips scotts or GPR Steering Stabilizers kick ass, and you will have yourself a trail beast that is easy enough to ride with 450s without haveing to stop cause of arm pump or general fatigue. Then if you want more power PORT IT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruelSoul Posted March 1, 2012 Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 Also maybe look into non cut plastics and a rear fender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy_bell_banshee99 Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 think of it this way, with the 2 into 1 pipe set up you have, its like inhaleing through your nose and exhaleing through a single tiny straw, put 2 straws in your mouth and you can exhale alot easier. so ditch the 2 into 1 IMHO. youll want to keep the airbox if your doing GNCC because of the mud, so drill holes in the lid and get rid of the snorkle. 22" on the rear is the only way to go. id have a few sets of sprockets on hand. some for acceleration and some for top speed, if you know the coarse is all turns then gear down in the front, if its straits then gear up in the front. youll need a good strong chain, i recomend D.I.D gold chain, theyre strong and ive ran them on all my bikes, i never had to buy a new chain not even on my yz490. just keep it oiled and dont let it get too loose and keep an inch of free travel while you sit on your bike id keep your stock carbs or maby get some 28's, (you can bore stock carbs to 28 for cheap) also get things such as anti vibration steering stem, works suspension, etc. to give you more comfort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00'yamahabanshee Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 I run 22" kenda klaws on hard pack trails, or if i know i will be riding on sandy trails i'll reverse the tires. for rutted areas I use 22" holeshot xct's and they work out very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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