ceetwarrior Posted September 23, 2010 Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 hey guys, new to the forum and Banshee's for that matter. But certainly not new to quads. I have searched and searched all over the internet and cannot seem to find the info I need. So if anyone could help that'd be great! Project Banshee is underway but I have a major lack-of-spark issue with it I need to fix first. I need a wiring diagram or instructions on how to remove the TORS system COMPLETELY without buying those kits. I try to only do one thing at a time then I make sure it runs before I move on. I've done a key delete, TORS bypass (at the throttle), new RM stator, RM adjustable CDI, RM high fire coil. Still no spark. So now I've cut a ton of wires (relating to TORS) out of the harness and still no spark. I need to know what I to tie with what. My plan is to leave the TORS wires connected to the carbs (for now) so I don't have to buy the kit. I just need wiring info to clean up these harnesses. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
assbandit Posted September 23, 2010 Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 (edited) unplug the tors control unit. the wires consist of y/b b b/w Edited September 23, 2010 by assbandit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superswire Posted September 23, 2010 Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 http://forums.everything2stroke.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17807&d=1259018809 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted September 24, 2010 Report Share Posted September 24, 2010 If you unplugged the throttle wires and did not unplug the control box that is your problem. Once the box is unplugged you can also unplug the wires on the carb. The TORS delete kits have nothing to do with the wiring, it is a new throttle cable, 2 new carb tops with adjusters and the good kits have a drill and tap and 2 idle screws. Also, I would stay away from stuff from RM Stator, they don't have the best reputation on BHQ. Some of their stators have been known to be bad right out of the box brand new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceetwarrior Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 (edited) Thanks guys! I have cut and removed most all of the black and yellow wires in the harness for the TORS. There is some black wires I'm not sure what to tie together yet... Well, didn't know RM had bad rep before I bought the stuff. Good to know now. I am wondering if my stator is bad out of the box. I'm trying to diagnose it right now. I should get 12v immediatelyat the stator when I kick start it, right? Edited October 4, 2010 by ceetwarrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roccdeezy Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 (edited) Thanks guys! I have cut and removed most all of the black and yellow wires in the harness for the TORS. There is some black wires I'm not sure what to tie together yet... Well, didn't know RM had bad rep before I bought the stuff. Good to know now. I am wondering if my stator is bad out of the box. I'm trying to diagnose it right now. I should get 12v immediatelyat the stator when I kick start it, right? I got one right out of the box that didn't work. Put it on and could not figure out what the hell was wrong. the bike would give one fart and sound like it wanted to run but would not. The lights would come on when kicking it too.the stator even tested good. It turned out the wires were soldered on backwards to pick up coil. Instead of sending it back I swapped the wires myself. did the bike run with the rm stator you bought or did you just put it on and it won't run? Edited October 4, 2010 by Roccdeezy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roccdeezy Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 I got one right out of the box that didn't work. Put it on and could not figure out what the hell was wrong. the bike would give one fart and sound like it wanted to run but would not. The lights would come on when kicking it too.the stator even tested good. It turned out the wires were soldered on backwards to pick up coil. Instead of sending it back I swapped the wires myself. did the bike run with the rm stator you bought or did you just put it on and it won't run? FYI the wires that I had to swap were the red/white wire with the green/white wire. I swapped them by the white plug on the stator side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceetwarrior Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 FYI the wires that I had to swap were the red/white wire with the green/white wire. I swapped them by the white plug on the stator side. That's funny, we found the same thing. We got no voltage before or after swapping those wires. The g/w & r/w wires from the pickup ohmed out fine by the book; 95-140ohm. It had 115. Is it possible that my flywheel magnet is weak? I'm gonna call RMstator and see if they can help too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roccdeezy Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 That's funny, we found the same thing. We got no voltage before or after swapping those wires. The g/w & r/w wires from the pickup ohmed out fine by the book; 95-140ohm. It had 115. Is it possible that my flywheel magnet is weak? I'm gonna call RMstator and see if they can help too... did the bike run with the old stator? Also is the clearance set between the magneto and pick up coil. Don't take this wrong but did you put the woodruff key on when installing the new stator. Also make sure nothing is grounded. If all else fails start puting all the wires back together that you cut and start over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceetwarrior Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Well, what happend was I was riding around fine when it died. It just turned off, no spark. At that point I had already had the tors bypassed at the throttle and key delete. Kill switch worked just fine too. But during this whole process I've gone through and double checked every possible thing. I did gap the pickup at .014". My flywheel also snapped into place with force of the magnet so I can't imagine that it's bad...? Yes, wood key in place. I have no voltage at the directly after the pickup, when kicking it over. I think the stator is bad out of the box..... I called RM, but they were out to lunch, haven't called back yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceetwarrior Posted October 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2010 RMStator is taking care of me big time. They pre-paid shipping for me to send all of their parts AND my parts to them to have them all tested. The tech guy (Mike) personally owns a Banshee and is going to find out the problem. The reason why it's such an odd problem is the stator checks out correctly (ohm) but will not produce any voltage when kicking over. I'm wondering if my flywheel has lost magnetic power? Although it snaps into place when I install it. Who knows, but in a few weeks hopefully it'll be running. Who knows, maybe it's a bad stator. We'll find out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 24, 2010 Report Share Posted October 24, 2010 probably just a bad winding.... that's not un-like rs, from my personal experience.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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