01 banshee spitting and sputtering real bad, low to mid rpm's only

[tiptopss]

Hey guys, whats up? I bought a used 01 banshee, and ever since i got it it never worked right, I spits and sputters real real bad, but only on bottom end and mid range, top end it clears up, and seems to run pretty good, compression is 110 on both cylinders, had the carbs off atleast 15 times in the last 2 weeks, cleaned them throughly each time, with air compressor and carb cleaner, carb slides are synced, and both the needles going through the slide are set the same, if I remove the air filter lid, it seems to work a bit better, and yesterday i took it for a spin, just to keep adjusting the idle / air screws, those screws dident do anything at all, no change what so ever, it dident even effect the ideling, seems wierd? and the t.o.r.s is still hooked up, appreciate any info, thaks a bunch

 

One more thing, My brothers banshee was working quite bad years ago, and a few people told me on this site, that it might be the carb slide in backwards, that fixed his problem, this bike now, im sure they are in right, I am lost here, No idea what might be causing this problem, and agian on those idle / air screws on the outside of the carbs, I find it really wierd that it dident make a bit of diffrence, i had one carb at 1 1/2 and the other jet right out of the carb, with no effect at all, not even the ideling, and vice versa with the other one

[ECshee]

Need more info on your bike i think. What are the mods..... and what are your current settings..... first things first, i would make sure both your air/fuel screws are adjusted THE SAME(between1.5 -- 2.0 turns) on both carbs. Its pretty hard i think, to put the slides in backwards. Second, look into your mods, and if you (or previous owner) jetted the bike accordingly, you can rule that out. What is your current jetting? If you took your lid off, and it seems like it got better, it sounds like it migh tbe a jetting issue

[tiptopss]

thanks buddy, not really modded that much, stock bore, stock reeds, stock carbs, etc. The only mod I guess would be a set of pipes, with silencers, besides that, its bone stock, even down to the air filter, yes it seems to work a little better with the lid off, but not by much, also I have no idea on the jets, not sure the size, hard to say what the previous owner put in it. Do you know the stock jet size? is the size written on the jet its self? thanks agian.

[luv2ride]

How do the plugs look? Stock pilots are 25's and yes they should have the number on them. I believe stock mains are 200's but not entirely sure off the top of my head. If low end sucks check the needles (middle clip) make sure the pilots arent clogged and adjust the air mixture screws as such

 

Turn the air screw all the way in, just until it's lightly seated, then set it 1.5-turns out

Slowly turn the air screw in, then out, until you find the fastest idle

If the air screw is less than 1-turn from Closed, it needs a larger pilot jet

If the air screw is more than 2.5-turns from Closed, it needs a smaller pilot jet

Once you have determined and installed the correct pilot jet and tuned the air screw for the fastest idle

Set the idle back down and ride the bike, using Closed to 1/4 throttle positions

Turn the air screw slightly (1/8 of a turn) in either direction until you find the point that gives you the best response when cracking the throttle open

 

Cheers

 

thanks buddy, not really modded that much, stock bore, stock reeds, stock carbs, etc. The only mod I guess would be a set of pipes, with silencers, besides that, its bone stock, even down to the air filter, yes it seems to work a little better with the lid off, but not by much, also I have no idea on the jets, not sure the size, hard to say what the previous owner put in it. Do you know the stock jet size? is the size written on the jet its self? thanks agian.

[tiptopss]

cool thanks, i will check the jets t osee what size they are, also like i said before, as of now, turning the screws in and out have no effect on the bike what so ever, not even the ideling, so whatever is wrong is having an effect on those 2 screws also. And the plugs, the left side looks great, but thorttle side looks to be a little blacker, you can tell that the pipe is not as hot either on the throttle side

[tiptopss]

anybody else?

[tiptopss]

anybody else?

 

jets in the carb are 260, could it be a firing issue? maybe a going bad cdi?

[Jereme6655]

jets in the carb are 260, could it be a firing issue? maybe a going bad cdi?

what size pilot jet are you running? the # IS on the pilot jet also....although its really small so you may not be able to see it without lookin real close. like said.....stock is a 25. But if your running pipes you should be running a 27.5

 

my bike had a similar problem to yours and would clear itself up when it got above 1/4 throttle. dropped in the 27.5's and it ran like a raped ape....

 

also what altitude are you riding at?

[Larry's Shee]

Pilot jetsare small ,the numbers even smaller ,lol. If screw adjustment has no effect you have plugged pilot circuit. Clean carbs one at a time to not mix parts ,they are different. Is air cleaner clean? Also what pipes do you have?

Edited September 19, 2010 by Larry's Shee

[tiptopss]

Pilot jetsare small ,the numbers even smaller ,lol. If screw adjustment has no effect you have plugged pilot circuit. Clean carbs one at a time to not mix parts ,they are different. Is air cleaner clean? Also what pipes do you have?

 

thanks guys, i will check the pilot jet size today and post back, yep filter is clean, and has fmf pipes on there

altitude is sea level

ya the bike runs like sh*t, so bad you can't even drive it, it literally just spits and sputters really bad and all the time, it has absolutly no power, its just no good at all the way it is, not really and blue smoke coming out of the exhaust either

[2 Stroke Screamer]

anybody else?

 

Stock pilots are #25 mains are #190 here in Australia anyway if pipes are all you've got on it pilots #27.5 or #30 at most and mains should be at 260 depending on altitude of course. The way you've described it runs I would check that the slides are in the proper carbys IE: cuttaways at the bottom of the slides need to be facing to the rear of the carbys it is possible to get the left slide in the right carby and vice versa usually done when both carbys are out of the bike at the same time and slides mixed up with each other upon installation, you can also open the throttle up and look through the sight glass on the side of each carby and you will see a recessed hole in each slide if they are the right way around. This problem with the slides being in the wrong carbys causes a real rich condition in the low to mid range. Hope this helps

[tripledsracing]

Stock pilots are #25 mains are #190 here in Australia anyway if pipes are all you've got on it pilots #27.5 or #30 at most and mains should be at 260 depending on altitude of course. The way you've described it runs I would check that the slides are in the proper carbys IE: cuttaways at the bottom of the slides need to be facing to the rear of the carbys it is possible to get the left slide in the right carby and vice versa usually done when both carbys are out of the bike at the same time and slides mixed up with each other upon installation, you can also open the throttle up and look through the sight glass on the side of each carby and you will see a recessed hole in each slide if they are the right way around. This problem with the slides being in the wrong carbys causes a real rich condition in the low to mid range. Hope this helps

 

yeap i had the same thing happen before!..also if you are still running the tors setup there is a wire running to your throttle and there is a switch inside and if its not adjusted proper will cause it to act like you have described!..went through that and was hell to find...

[2 Stroke Screamer]

Hey guys, whats up? I bought a used 01 banshee, and ever since i got it it never worked right, I spits and sputters real real bad, but only on bottom end and mid range, top end it clears up, and seems to run pretty good, compression is 110 on both cylinders, had the carbs off atleast 15 times in the last 2 weeks, cleaned them throughly each time, with air compressor and carb cleaner, carb slides are synced, and both the needles going through the slide are set the same, if I remove the air filter lid, it seems to work a bit better, and yesterday i took it for a spin, just to keep adjusting the idle / air screws, those screws dident do anything at all, no change what so ever, it dident even effect the ideling, seems wierd? and the t.o.r.s is still hooked up, appreciate any info, thaks a bunch

 

One more thing, My brothers banshee was working quite bad years ago, and a few people told me on this site, that it might be the carb slide in backwards, that fixed his problem, this bike now, im sure they are in right, I am lost here, No idea what might be causing this problem, and agian on those idle / air screws on the outside of the carbs, I find it really wierd that it dident make a bit of diffrence, i had one carb at 1 1/2 and the other jet right out of the carb, with no effect at all, not even the ideling, and vice versa with the other one

 

 

Those idle/ air screws your talking about are they toward the rear of the carbys if they are then they are not idle screws they are air screws and need to be set at 1.5 to 2 turns out from a lightly seated position, your idle screws are located on top of the throttle override system slightly angled back. try 27.5 pilots, 260 mains & needle clip in third groove from the top as long as your carbys are syncronised properly this should be a fairly good setup for you to start with IMO.