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Posted

Note the filled-in hole on the left side of the carburetor, next to the fuel inlet. It is NOT drilled OR tapped. Yet. It soon will be. DO NOT mistakenly drill out the similar hole on the opposite side of the carburetor. It is factory-threaded, but the idle screw won't work if put in on this side of the carb.

 

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Using a grinding burr (shown here) or a hand file, you'll need to remove the taper from the lip of the un-tapped hole on the carburetor. This is done to ensure that the lock nut for the idle screw has a flat surface on which to seat.

 

007-2.jpg

 

Here's the intended result. One clean and very flat flange. Work slowly, and be careful if you're using an air tool. The grinding burr will cut aggressively, and it is easy to take off too much aluminum. Also, DO NOT use a mounted stone when grinding aluminum. The aluminum will load up on the stone and may cause it to fly apart.

 

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Once you have the flange ground down, it is time to use the drill bit supplied with the idle screw kit (drill bit (#6) . Shove a rag down the venturi of the carburetor to help keep metal shavings out. Using a drill press (or a very steady hand) drill all the way through the hole, until the drill bit emerges into the throat of the carburetor. Again, work slowly and patiently. A vise really helps here too.

 

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Now that you have a neat hole in the side of your carburetor, it is time to thread it. Using the thread tap (6mm x .75mm) supplied in the idle kit (and some lubricant), thread the tap into the hole and spin it in a half turn and out a half turn in another half then out and so on until she is through. Make sure to cut new threads all the way into the throat of the carburetor. It is a good idea to check for burrs after you get done, especially inside the carb. You don't want the throttle slide getting stuck on a rough edge and you going full throttle uncontrollably into a tree while your friends point and laugh at you right??? Ah,no you dont!!! B)

 

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Almost done, Just blow out any aluminum shavings, thread the idle screw into the fresh hole.

 

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You're done with the hardest part. Here's the end result. The idle speed will have to be set once you get the carburetor back on the quad and the engine warmed up. Turn the screw to the proper setting and jam it in place with the lock nut. Just make sure to get ALL pieces of aluminum out of the carburetor before re-installing it. You don't want any metal shavings getting into the crankcase.

 

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Now go tear shit up!!! Monster.gif

Posted

You should also consider putting a little blue loc tight on the idle screws. I have had one rattle out and sieze a motor before! Mine have blue loc tight and are wire tied so I know this cannot happen again!

Posted (edited)

If the locknut is properly tightened you won't need the loctite, I have never used it on idle screws on three different Banshees in over 20 years. Also, the instructions are awesome except that he did not mention that on the right side carb, the one WITHOUT the choke, you need to drill the hole on the outside of the carb, opposite side of the fuel inlet.

Edited by bansheesandrider
Posted

My # 6 drill bit seems to be to large ? at least larger than the one shown in the pic.

 

 

Do you have any calipers to measure the bit width?

Posted

my # 6 drill bit is 6 mm wide ... but seems to big for the idle screw doesnt it have to be a little smaller to be able to make threads in it ?

Posted

so finally got it to work but used a different idle screw . smaller size m5 x 0.8 instead of the m6 x 0.75 just because i didnt have the right tap . thx for the help

Posted

Update?

 

Works good still?

Posted

yeah it works good just had to remove more material from the carbs to get that extra adjustement. got the bike running yesterday seems to run good !

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