Stock internals about to change, need advice.

[USMC53]

I have the vitos 4mm stock rod using the stroker plate,66mm pistons,mild port job and the stock head. Bike runs good.

 

If I run a head with interchangeable domes instead of running a stroker plate, will I still be able to run pump gas?

[livealatimmy]

If I run a head with interchangeable domes instead of running a stroker plate, will I still be able to run pump gas?

 

I just got a vitos hemi head and bought 20cc domes. I was told that 20 or 22cc would work well with pump gas.

[USMC53]

I just got a vitos hemi head and bought 20cc domes. I was told that 20 or 22cc would work well with pump gas.

Did you run the new head yet? Curious about the performance difference between aftermarket head w/domes vs stroker plate

[jbooker82]

Did you run the new head yet? Curious about the performance difference between aftermarket head w/domes vs stroker plate

 

There isnt really any perfomance difference. Running a cool head with stroker domes allows the guy poring the cylinders more freedom. When you put the 2mm plate under the cylinders you instanly raise/advance all port timings 2mm. Most builders will want to raise the ports by them doing it with there porting tools not a 2mm plate.

[USMC53]

There isnt really any perfomance difference. Running a cool head with stroker domes allows the guy poring the cylinders more freedom. When you put the 2mm plate under the cylinders you instanly raise/advance all port timings 2mm. Most builders will want to raise the ports by them doing it with there porting tools not a 2mm plate.

So the stroker plate is easier, cheaper and doesn't sacrifice performance...hmmm I may just do that then, I'm not really trying to spend much cash but still want a to be impressed. How difficult is the crank installation? would I be ok to take it to my local powersports shop and have it done or do I need a banshee specialist?

Edited September 1, 2010 by USMC53

[AKheathen]

actually, the only way the plate does not sacrifice performance, is if the cylinders are ported to account for the plate. even then, there isn't much meat left in the cyls. to port lower then a dune/drag port, most definitely not low enough on the transfers to accommodate a mx port job. however, what a plate does sacrifice, is reliability. the spacer plates are stamped out of nice, smooth aluminum plate, which isn't the best, or near as good as a machined surface for gasket adhesion. basically 3x the chance of a leak, or shifting. as for the stock head/coolhead choice, off-the-shelf domes do have a better cut to them than a stock chamber, but what is more- you can get the best custom cut domes for your application through a sponsor for anywhere between 70-90 bucks. choosing which head to run pretty much depends on cost, aesthetics, and ease of installation. noss, fast (noss) and a couple others offer a 1-piece shell that can use the stock head studs to mount, but you may not like the recessed nut look, or if you buy used, you take whatever you like. really no head will be a bad design. stock heads can also be re-chambered really nice, but you are slightly limited on what you can do, and once it's cut, that's what you got. as far as installing a crank- if you are handy with tools, and can read the book, it's really simple and not easy to mess up. you can do it, or have the shop do it. no need for "banshee guys" there. best thing you can do right now, is call around to different sponsors and pick the one you like for whatever reason. they all make the best outcome you can get. I'm partial to wildcard racing, but you should choose who you are most comfortable with. once you pick who you like, let them walk you through your build, and get you setup. they will port your cylinders based on every little thing, like pipes, carbs, reeds, timing, rider weight, ridding style, fuel, future plans, etc. the more you let them decide, instead of us, the better your build will be.

[jbooker82]

actually, the only way the plate does not sacrifice performance, is if the cylinders are ported to account for the plate. even then, there isn't much meat left in the cyls. to port lower then a dune/drag port, most definitely not low enough on the transfers to accommodate a mx port job. however, what a plate does sacrifice, is reliability. the spacer plates are stamped out of nice, smooth aluminum plate, which isn't the best, or near as good as a machined surface for gasket adhesion. basically 3x the chance of a leak, or shifting.

 

Yep.

 

I wouldn't build a stroker motor with a spacer plate. If your going to port the cylinders then port them for the 4 mill crank. A 4mill port jobs doesnt cost much more than a standard stock stroke port job. It is more reliable than the spacer plate and it gives the guy doing the port work more room to custom taylor the port job to your riding style.

[livealatimmy]

Yep.

 

I wouldn't build a stroker motor with a spacer plate. If your going to port the cylinders then port them for the 4 mill crank. A 4mill port jobs doesnt cost much more than a standard stock stroke port job. It is more reliable than the spacer plate and it gives the guy doing the port work more room to custom taylor the port job to your riding style.

 

 

I agree if I could go back in time I wouldve done the 4mm long rod.

[zachass9]

My personal opinion after reading thru all the posts is to got to a 4 mil long rod and check into the new Serval cylinder from CP!! Call Andy @ M&M ATV 877 301-1700. I looked at the dyno sheet and was fortunate enought the other day to get to ride the new Serval!! Holy $hit, I will own one for sure! Give it a thought before paying for portwork!! Just my .02

 

Z

[USMC53]

Hey thanks for all the input, Im not 100% sure on what I'm going to do yet with the cylinders but I'm for sure puttin in a 4 mil. All of your info has helped me out a ton, keep it coming!

[Vintage Smoke]

Hey thanks for all the input, Im not 100% sure on what I'm going to do yet with the cylinders but I'm for sure puttin in a 4 mil. All of your info has helped me out a ton, keep it coming!

 

I have a few reccomendations for you and I promise they are all SINCERE.

 

I own a motorcycle shop (not ATV or Banshee related) and I give the same advice to ALL my customers that want to start wrenching on something they are not very familiar with. Buy a manual!! (If you don't already have one). Now...put it in the shitter ON TOP of the pile of magazines. The next time you are in "The Library" start reading the engine section. It will open you up to a world of knowledge and you will be suprised!! There is no other way most of us will take the time to sit down and read a manual (except when we are physically working on the bike). I recently started building a Banshee motor. I have done a bunch of older air cooled 2 strokes, but wanted to brush up on the differances. I actually found the Clymer manual to be excellent! I completely read the engine tear down/ assembly section before I ever started working on the motor. It was a HUGE help!!

 

Second....reach out to a reccomended site sponsor here before you spend ANY money or do ANY work. That includes tearing the motor apart. They may want you to check certain things as you tear the motor down. I have NO interest in any of them in particular, but this advice does come from a professional shop owner. You will most likely SAVE your self (and your porter/builder) money and time if you take the time to work with someone you trust BEFORE you start.

 

 

It is always disapointing to me to tell a customer that the direction they wanted to go is going to be out of their budget or even impossible. ESPECIALLY if they have already spent money on parts they just won't be able to use.

 

Set a maximum limit budget for your self and then let a pro get you as close to (or even better than) your expectations without going over budget, having to do extra work, or even worse having to re-do something you already spent money on.

[jbooker82]

Hey thanks for all the input, Im not 100% sure on what I'm going to do yet with the cylinders but I'm for sure puttin in a 4 mil. All of your info has helped me out a ton, keep it coming!

 

You deffinatly need to port it for a 4 mill if you want it to be fast. It will run fine with out doing it but a stock stroke ported banshee will run circles around a factory ported 4 mill.

 

Once you port your cylinders for a stock stroke crank they cannot be reported for a 4 mill unless your stock stroke port job was not verry agressive.

 

So you kind of need to decide what your wanting to do. You might check the classified's for a pair of cylinders that are alredy ported for a 4 mill. That usually can save you a few bucks. A 4 mill is deffinatly worth the cash. Just build the motor right first. Pipes and carbs, longer swing arm can all be done later on down the road.

[USMC53]

I have a few reccomendations for you and I promise they are all SINCERE.

 

I own a motorcycle shop (not ATV or Banshee related) and I give the same advice to ALL my customers that want to start wrenching on something they are not very familiar with. Buy a manual!! (If you don't already have one). Now...put it in the shitter ON TOP of the pile of magazines. The next time you are in "The Library" start reading the engine section. It will open you up to a world of knowledge and you will be suprised!! There is no other way most of us will take the time to sit down and read a manual (except when we are physically working on the bike). I recently started building a Banshee motor. I have done a bunch of older air cooled 2 strokes, but wanted to brush up on the differances. I actually found the Clymer manual to be excellent! I completely read the engine tear down/ assembly section before I ever started working on the motor. It was a HUGE help!!

 

Second....reach out to a reccomended site sponsor here before you spend ANY money or do ANY work. That includes tearing the motor apart. They may want you to check certain things as you tear the motor down. I have NO interest in any of them in particular, but this advice does come from a professional shop owner. You will most likely SAVE your self (and your porter/builder) money and time if you take the time to work with someone you trust BEFORE you start.

 

 

It is always disapointing to me to tell a customer that the direction they wanted to go is going to be out of their budget or even impossible. ESPECIALLY if they have already spent money on parts they just won't be able to use.

 

Set a maximum limit budget for your self and then let a pro get you as close to (or even better than) your expectations without going over budget, having to do extra work, or even worse having to re-do something you already spent money on.

 

Hey thanks, I've already purchased a clymer manual and it's been real helpful and I'm sending my cylinders to F.A.S.T racing to get porting done.