FTZ Racing 35.5 gas carbs?

[trickedcarbine]

Alright, I have been developing a new set up for the past few months for my flat track ice bike and finally got some dinero to throw at some new carbs. I wanted some new psi genisis carbs after hearing from my brother on how much they perform on the sleds out west, but 1200 is to steep for me right now. Then i thought about the down draft fcr conversions that the guys on rz forums are using, but the cost is still to high as well as the expense of all the time spent dialing in a totally alien set up. So that leaves me with some 35mm strykers or the mikuni 35's. Right now the bike is pretty close to the mods in my sig. I heard that the 35mm strykers have a tendency to have a flat spot on alot of bikes, but they are easy to tune, wich is a nightmare on these tempermental 34pj's that I run now.

 

After looking around I can't find much about the FTZ 35.5 GAS Mikunis. So I decide to call them just to find out what sets their carb apart from the rest. Here is the answer the guy on the phone gave me " the mikunis for a banshee.......uh.... my tech says they are about the best carb for it so that is why we sell them." So I just tell him "thanks, I guess.... I will see what I can find" . So this idiot tells me hold on, ten minutes later he comes back and tells me that his tech " just feels it is a good all around carb and would be perfect for my bike. Wait what kind of bike was it for? Oh banshee, and what type of riding? Oh, flat track, yeah....... these should work. There isn't really much about them tech wise".

 

Wait, what the fuck did this idiot just say, and he really expects me to be comfortable spending that much money on a product he can't even tell me about. Nice tech line huh?

 

So please, any one got any info or tech experience with these particular carbs? I.E. Tunibility, how it responds to weather and altitude. Is it finicky like my pj's, or how do they deliver the power compared to a pair of 34mm pj carbs?

[96 sandshee]

35.5 is a great carb on alky, no gas carb experience tho. I'm not a stryker fan but 35 PWK is a tried and true gas carb.

[dajogejr]

Since Mike @ Lakes motorsports ported your motor why don't you ask HIM what carbs will work for your setup?

[trickedcarbine]

The issue is I had the 34mm pj's when the porting was done and he worked dremel for those. Now I am building a new motor that will undoubtedly run larger carbs then the pj's. I just would like to find something that will be a little more mid to top on my current set up with out dropping much response, yet work on my new set up. I know the 35mm strykers will work fine, but I am really trying to make my hobby a serious racing endevor, so any edge I can find at this point is what will make my set up perform just a cunt hair better then the other bikes I'll race this season.

 

Mike has tested the pwk, pwk/stryker, and the medium sized mikunis such as the tm, tmz, etc. However he has not really done an application specifically for a tt/ice banshee. He tells me that if I want a little more to get the 35mm strykers, or the tm's. But we both wanna test something a little less known. Not a big deal when a dyno is at our disposal. Both of us have seen bikes run the psi carbs so after the remodeled resturaunt opens up i will pony up on some psi genisis'.

 

I did see a set of those 35.5 FTZ carbs on a post here, so i may snag them up and just see how they compare and perform compared to the pj's currently on it. I just wondered if the FTZ's were still responsive, or if they have to be held open up top while i rag my clutches out. The problem is when i called ftz, the guy couldn't even tell me any thing about the carbs. So i feel like i gotta pull out the mastercard and do the ol' "pay and pray"

Edited August 18, 2010 by trickedcarbine

[bigborebanshee]

I would not waste my time going to a Pwk from a PJ unless your stepping up to 39.I have been running PJs forever.I don't understand why people have such a hard time tuning these carbs.It just takes patience and it helps if your choke knob/idle adjusters are in good shape.Take them apart,clean them and inspect the detents to insure they are keeping the knob secure.They are still the "meat and potatoes" of a modded banshee.I had mine bored to 34.5 and would not switch unless i was planning to go bigger

[trickedcarbine]

The pj's were a bitch to learn for sure, and i figured them out long ago. There are definite downfalls to them though, and I am tired of playing with those carbs more then I play with my throttle. I am starting to feel like a marine always field stripping a weapon. Any changes in weather and it is time to tinker. Plus I am looking for a bit more mid-top. I keep hearing that the stryker pwk carbs have a bit of a flat spot in the rev on alot of 4 mil bikes, so I am trying to steer clear of them. I just wanna see if there is something a little more suited for my application. Those 34's are sick outta the turns, but the cub behind me in the turn always turns in to the cub in front of me on the straight and gives no room to run the fast line around the next turn. This year there will be several improvements to help prevent this. Also i will need to have a little more carb for the twister small block that will be going together.

[bigborebanshee]

Those 34's are sick outta the turns, but the cub behind me in the turn always turns in to the cub in front of me on the straight and gives no room to run the fast line around the next turn.

 

Its not the carbs that are holding you back,its the cub that you are not running.Stock bigbore cylinders,even the re-cast Vitos are no match for a cub.

Edited August 18, 2010 by bigborebanshee

[trickedcarbine]

Well, I know more power will get me caught up, that is why i would like a bit more carb. Right now my set up lays a solid 77 hp, and his cub doesn't do any thing i can't till 5th gear. It makes maybe 90 hp as was last year. The bike was a 4 mil cub on stock carbs bored to 28mm. Goofy I know but it actually worked to keep that cub fairly responsive, but we all know that even with custom shearers it had alot more to go. My set up was so much more smooth and i know that with just a lil more carb, I will be able to hang on till the small block gets built. Plus in my opinion, the cubs are really not for our racing unless it is those canadiens running the late model & outlaw monster ovals. In the smaller stuff and more aggressive turns i walk all over the cubs with a more dialed setup. Now if either of the 2 cub owners throw the cash down for a set ov pv cheetahs, that is another story and I am in trouble no matter how much better my set up is. Not to mention the way you have to murder clutches to keep the damn kitty cub in the revs and put the power to the tires smooth enough to not blow the tires off. Remember this isn't the dunes or a straight line race, it's the good ol american frozen lakes. Right now the bike is up rockets and a 4mm crank compared to last years motor combo. Now with just a scoche more carb it should be able to walk away. By the time I'll be on the throttle full and hooked, poor kitty cub will be hunting gears and lookin' for power band. Not to mention the current switch to no link, peps rear, and -2 swinger, my new chassis is gonna wreck some dreams.

Edited August 18, 2010 by trickedcarbine