barker Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 went riding yesterday and the bike was working excellent. had it to the pit for a while and up the road a little bit then stopped at my buddies camp. when we got ready to leave the bike started right up but now makes a horrible crunching/knocking sound in the bottom end at idle. gave it a blip on the throttle and the noise goes away and it sounds normal until it drops back to idle.. decided not to run it anymore and towed it home. Im thinking it must be the crank? was going to pull it apart today but got called in to work tonight. has anyone had this happen or do you know if the noise could be anything other than the crank. the bike has been taken care of, has had all fluids changed recently and the plugs are just a bit golden brown like they should be. one thing I noticed is that the bike seemed to be pretty hot after one long run down the road but I shut it down when we got to the pit and after it cooled down for a while it started right back up and I had no troubles with it until later that day. let it sit maybe 4 or 5 other times before going to the camp and it was fine every time. I have never worked on a banshee but I have worked on other bikes and im pretty handy, so I would much rather do the work myself than taking it to a dealer so they can charge me a ridiculous amount of money (which is tight right now with tuition coming up) so I will probably just get a manual and go at it myself. What manual does everyone use? i have heard there is one from Yamaha and a clymers one and a few others but I think ill go with the clymers. let me know what you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 I have a Clymers and like it a lot. I think a factory manual is pretty pricey. Pull clutch cover and check it out , might also be something up with the water pump/pump drive gear. Have you checked trans oil since hot spell? If it looks like chocolate milk you have a bad water pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toytech Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 check the clutch basket the rivets come loose, or if someone put an aftermarket basket the bolts could be loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barker Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 I was thinking maybe it could be something with the clutch. Ill have to open it up tomorrow afternoon once i get home from work and have a look see. haven't drained the oil but I checked it and it looks to be fine, and there's lots in it. Im working on getting a clymers. stupid paypal wont let me on my account though... rar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 definately first thing to pull the clutch cover and see. all the screws are #3 phillips, not 2. and you may need to give the butt of the screwdriver a smack to pop them loose without stripping. pull the pump cover first, there is 2. on the clutch cover to the front of the bike woth 3 screws, then the little pump cover underneath with 5 screws. all the coolant can drain there. you have to pull the brake lever off, and at least 1 peg bolt to roll the peg. then the kickstart lever and you can unscrew the cover and pull strait off. you will most likely see if there is a problem right away. the clutch basket gear is supposed to have no play, and check for excessive play/rocking on the little idler gear between the clutch and kicker. everything else should be pretty evident Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 Get some valve lapping compound and put it on the tip the scew driver. It is gritty and will give the scewdriver grip on the screw. It will feel like your going to twist the scew off before it will strip the head. It works great on allen heads too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 Get some valve lapping compound and put it on the tip the scew driver. It is gritty and will give the scewdriver grip on the screw. It will feel like your going to twist the scew off before it will strip the head. It works great on allen heads too. hey, that's a pretty good ider there. i'll have to remember that next time. i have some clove compound layin around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 It gives it some serious bite. Especially if you tap the end of the screw driver with a hammer to seat it. You might need a screw driver that has a 1/4 in nut next to the handle. That way you can use a box end wrench for more torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barker Posted August 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 thanks for all the help guys. Unfortunately im on night shift for the next few days so I wont get a chance to tinker with the bike till probably Friday. Ill keep you all posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toytech Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 Get some valve lapping compound and put it on the tip the scew driver. It is gritty and will give the scewdriver grip on the screw. It will feel like your going to twist the scew off before it will strip the head. It works great on allen heads too. thats a good idea! I'll have to try that sometime, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Smoke Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 thats a good idea! I'll have to try that sometime, It works EXCELLENT. It helps to keep fasteners from stripping, but also helps get stripped fasteners out too. All of my screwdriver, allen, and torx bits in the shop have the residue on them!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatHolland Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 I have one of those impact drivers, and they work great for phillips and flat heads...I need to get some of the bits for the torx and allens. They take a thicker bit than a normal one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandman81 Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 I've had this happen twice, one time it was the flywheel, second time the crank. If i was you i would start with the flywheel, as its the easiest to look at. The fly wheel was starting to come loose and started to make a noise, just like you mentioned. The second time it was the crank. Like suggested, i would start with the flywheel if good then i would check the clutch like what has been mentioned. Good luck keep us posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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