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adjustable stator question


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so long time ago before timing plates i put in a degree key im pretty sure it was only a +3 from alba but it might be a plus +4 , now my other thing is im running 20cc domes , now would it hurt if i got a timing plate and moved it up one degree so i might be at +4 or +5 , how can you tell if its to much timing and will detanate or not. sorry if this is a dumb question

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so long time ago before timing plates i put in a degree key im pretty sure it was only a +3 from alba but it might be a plus +4 , now my other thing is im running 20cc domes , now would it hurt if i got a timing plate and moved it up one degree so i might be at +4 or +5 , how can you tell if its to much timing and will detanate or not. sorry if this is a dumb question

I don't know what your elevation is but I live at 4500' and I run about 140 psi with +5 timing on my 4mil stroker set up by K&T one of the best and I only run Pump 93 octane runs great!

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Better yet, if you're getting a timing plate get rid of that key and let the plate do all your timing.

Set it at 4 to start and go from there.

iagree.gif

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only problem i dont have a stock key and i would have to get one somewere , im at 1100 ft elev . and how would i tell if the timing is to much say 4 -5

 

Yep it is a inconvenience now just to pull the key out and replace it with a oem one. It will be much easer to do on the bench when you tearing the motor apart to replace the crank cause the key sheared and mess the crank taper up. :headbang:

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Better yet, if you're getting a timing plate get rid of that key and let the plate do all your timing.

Set it at 4 to start and go from there.

 

X2

 

From JBOOKER82

Yep it is a inconvenience now just to pull the key out and replace it with a oem one. It will be much easer to do on the bench when you tearing the motor apart to replace the crank cause the key sheared and mess the crank taper up. :headbang:

 

ALSO X2

banghead

Edited by wfobasheeboy
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yeah, you will know it's too much when it blows up.....probably run pretty good before hand, though. ideally, the key really does nothing but line the crank up during install, but if the crank doesn't seat, there is definitely less meat to keep it from shearing. i had to make a key out of a bigger one out on the trails, but the nice chamfered stock one is cheap at the local dealer, and you will know for sure what the timing is. i would not go further than +4 timing if you are running 93, based on the little info you gave. what is the bore size, is it ported, and what kind? what fuel? safe timing limits aside, too much timing would present as loss in top end power and over-rev. basically, it'd hit a brick wall pulling it to the top. oh, and what pipes you running?

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The factory key is not very expensive and since you have to pull the flywheel to put in the adjustable plate anyway you should install a straight up key. Just order one when you order the plate and you will be set. You wont have to worry about your key shearing off and damaging other expensive parts.

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yea my mods are in my sig but , i have no port and stock stroke . im running fmf gold series pipes , and i run 94 octane . and i have noss head with 20cc domes . oh and still stock bore

 

A stock piped and stock ported banshee can break the key. It is an off set key so where the two key halfs meet is thin vs an oem key that is thicker because it is not ofset.

 

the off set key's strenght or thickness is just the small part between the keys edges.

CGTM300873-2T.jpg

 

sb_cam_key.jpg

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