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Posted

Did you PC or paint the frame? If you did, you will have to scrape off a bit where the grounds are.

 

If you didn't paint or pc, well then grab a $15 multimeter and test everything from the ignition coil, wires, caps, stator, check your pick up gap, kill switch, key and the whole harness.

 

If all that checks out then borrow a buddy's cdi that works.

 

Lets us know what you find or need a hand.

Posted

Did you test the ignition coil, wires, caps, stator, check your pick up gap, kill switch, key and the whole harness quickly?

Posted

No key and kill so you use a tether to shut down

 

Do you have a lil cheap digital multimeter? Any kind like this you can test out everything really quick!

http://blog.rotundu.eu/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/digital-multimeter-06.jpg Like $15 at any auto parts place.

Posted

Got a nice craftsman one, what do I use ohms, volts?

 

Did you remove the tors system. If not disconnect the system to see if that helps. If you did and cut off the plugs did you tie them together. If so that will also kill the spark.

Posted

Re-did the whole harness. Dont have a key or kill switch, kill switch wires are connected. How do I go about testing a coil and stator?

If you have the kill switch wires connected that is the problem, the kill switch grounds the CDI to shut the bike off. The key switch wires are supposed to be connected for it to run.

Posted

well it might be the key idk lol. Its a red wire connected to a black wire.

 

If you've modded the TORS system, and if you haven't already done so, disconnect the TORS Control Unit (little black box on the front-upper left-hand-side of the frame, just under the tank; single 3-wire connector).

 

Here's something that might help...

 

Connections:

 

Ignition = RED + RED/BLACK

 

Coil = ORANGE (+) & BLACK (-)

 

Voltage Reg = BLUE + BLACK [To Frame Gnd]

CDI:

 

WHITE/GREEN > STATOR (WHITE/GREEN)

WHITE/RED > STATOR (WHITE/RED)

GREEN > STATOR (GREEN)

RED > STATOR (RED)

 

RED/BLACK > IGNITION (RED/BLACK)

BLACK/WHITE > KILL SWITCH (BLACK/WHITE)

BLACK > WIRING GRD (BLACK)

ORANGE > IGN COIL (ORANGE)

 

Stator:

 

YELLOW > VOLTAGE REG (YELLOW) & DIMMER SWITCH (YELLOW/RED)

BLACK > WIRING GRD (BLACK)

Do Not Connect (Open Circuit -OR- Tether Switch):

 

Kill Switch = BLACK/WHITE + BLACK

 

Removable T.O.R.S. Junk:

 

Control Unit = YELLOW/BLACK + BLACK + BLACK/WHITE

 

Throttle switch = BLACK + BLACK/YELLOW

 

Carb Switch A = BLACK/YELLOW + YELLOW/BLACK

Carb Switch B = YELLOW/BLACK + BLACK

 

Lighting:

Headlights = GREEN + YELLOW + BLACK

 

Taillight = BLUE + BLACK

Posted

How can I test the stator to see if it is junk or not?

I use just a cheap lil $15 multimeter to test out everything. You can buy them at anywhere.

Posted (edited)

So I disconnected the tors shit and still no spark. Took the fltwheel off and omg was my stator filthy, cleaned it up with emery cloth and still no spark! How can I test the stator to see if it is junk or not?

 

First check the Pickup Coil gap it should be between .015 - .020 (about the thickness of a matchbook cover)

 

-------

 

Use an Ohm meter:

Test the primary coil resistance between the 2 blade connectors on the coil you should get .28 ~ .38 Ohms

 

If the primary tests bad, replace the coil

 

-------

 

Test the secondary coil resistance between each of the blade connectors and the corresponding plug wire; each one should be between 4.7 ~ 7.1 Ohms

 

If the secondary tests bad, remove the spark plug boots and test without them.

If the secondary tests good, replace the spark plug boots.

If the secondary still tests bad, replace the coil.

 

-------

 

If both of these are good check the stator next:

Disconnect the magneto connector (4-wire; GREEN, RED, WHITE/RED, WHITE/GREEN) and check the resistance between the GREEN and RED you should get between 13.7 ~ 20.5 Ohms

 

If the stator tests bad, replace the stator assembly.

Edited by CarvedArt

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