Gummie_guy Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 i recently picked up a 96 banshee for what i would consider a fair price. only thing is he said all it needs is clutch work. i am fairly new to quads and this is my first banshee. so i dont quite know what im doing yet but im learning. to start with things i took the clutch cover off to check out the clutch and found the screw thing in the center of the clutch all the way out. screwing it in puts pressure on the clutch and i guess its used to adjust it? then i notice there are only 5 of the 6 springs on it and there isnt even a screw/bolt for the last one. can i just pick up a bolt from any hardware store or is it something i need to special order? or can i run it with only 3 or 4 of the springs? i adjust the screw and lever and just try to roll it and it doesnt move like the clutch isnt working, is this an accurate way to test if its working before putting the cover back on? also is there a way to modify the stock clutch cover for easy access to this bolt/screw thing so as to not have to take the cover off every time? i had thought i had gotten that right, got it all put together and started it up, turned out it was only firing on one cylinder unless i sprayed starting fluid then the right one would fire at idle. looked into it more and found the slide was in the open position the whole time got that to come down and apparently trying to do that messed with the idle screws since im a newb and couldnt find the info on the tors. but now i need to start it with starting fluid and keep it revving it wont even idle for a minute. this question can kind of be answered at a later time, i have ordered the tors elim kit with idle screws so im going to install that and see what it does and clean the carbs while im at it. just need to know what i need to do to get the carbs off the throttle cable i guess and i can get that started. sorry for all the questions but i would like to get this fixed soon. any help is greatly appreciated, i have heard great things about you guys on this site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volcrano Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 i recently picked up a 96 banshee for what i would consider a fair price. only thing is he said all it needs is clutch work. i am fairly new to quads and this is my first banshee. so i dont quite know what im doing yet but im learning. to start with things i took the clutch cover off to check out the clutch and found the screw thing in the center of the clutch all the way out. screwing it in puts pressure on the clutch and i guess its used to adjust it? then i notice there are only 5 of the 6 springs on it and there isnt even a screw/bolt for the last one. can i just pick up a bolt from any hardware store or is it something i need to special order? or can i run it with only 3 or 4 of the springs? i adjust the screw and lever and just try to roll it and it doesnt move like the clutch isnt working, is this an accurate way to test if its working before putting the cover back on? also is there a way to modify the stock clutch cover for easy access to this bolt/screw thing so as to not have to take the cover off every time? i had thought i had gotten that right, got it all put together and started it up, turned out it was only firing on one cylinder unless i sprayed starting fluid then the right one would fire at idle. looked into it more and found the slide was in the open position the whole time got that to come down and apparently trying to do that messed with the idle screws since im a newb and couldnt find the info on the tors. but now i need to start it with starting fluid and keep it revving it wont even idle for a minute. this question can kind of be answered at a later time, i have ordered the tors elim kit with idle screws so im going to install that and see what it does and clean the carbs while im at it. just need to know what i need to do to get the carbs off the throttle cable i guess and i can get that started. sorry for all the questions but i would like to get this fixed soon. any help is greatly appreciated, i have heard great things about you guys on this site. if it were mine,i would order the right bolt,tho u can prob find one or something to work at hardware store if u go that route.take the pressure plate off,pull the clutch and seperate the fibers and steels.soak the fibers in oil for a minute,throw the steels in to actually to get a sticking clutch out of the equation,since ur in there.make sure there are no deep gouges in the clutch basket from the fibers chewing into it.a little is ok,and can be filed out to let the plates slide freely.if thats ok,make sure pressure plate isnt worn.if is,get one,jeff at f.a.s.t. on here has them new for $20.if all checks good and the clutch itself is in good shape,i.e.,not burnt up,still grips,put plates back in.it goes fiber,steel,fiber etc, till ur out.u end up with a fiber first and a fiber last,as there is 8 fibers,7 steels on a factory basket.GET ANOTHER SPRING!!u cant have uneven pressure on the pressure plate,u will burn a clutch out,and that might be what happened.u can have 3 stockers,3 aftermarkets for more grip,but u cant take them out for definate.so,if clutch checks ok,grab a new bolt,new spring.torque pressure plate spring to proper torque.as for the center adjuster.loosen locknut,put screwdriver on set screw.the cutch actuator arm that ur cable connects to at the case has like a point on the end if u look at it.now,there is a casting on ur case also that is an arrow.put ur finger on the actuator arm and push towards the passenger side of the motor.adjust the set screw while u have pressure on it with ur other hand and adjust until u get the arrow on the actuator to line up with the arrow on the case.tighten locknut.ur adjusted.actually,before u even adjust,also make sure the pushrod that is in the motor behind that set screw that runs horizontally to the actuator does have the rod and a ball in there.THESE MUST BE SEPERATE!!!if the ball is welded to the rod,get a new rod and new ball,then go back to the adjustment proceedure.this is important the ball and rod are seperate.if ur good and got her adjusted u should be good.as for getting in there easier,ull have to get a lockout or quick change clutch cover.they run 220 ish and up,so not really worth it unless ur going to get a lockout.people have said theyve cut a hole in the cover and put the factory yamaha rubber insert it and had no problems.cut at ur own risk.ive never done it and wont but people have done it.search around forums for info.ur startng issue can be mounds of issues.start by making sure the slides are in the right carbs as u can install them backwards.cutout of the slide towards the rear.pull ur air filter and look in the back of the carbs.if u cant see a little half moon at the bottom of the slides,thet are in the wrong carbs.put in fresh fuel,and fresh plugs,making sure ur air filter is clean and fuel is getting to the carbs.pull one line at a time with the petcock on to see if u get fuel out.we know it fired with starting fluid so ur electrical is working.so now its fuel or compression.get it running and keep it running till warm if u can.grab a compression tester (a good one-these can be ur best friend) and check compression.if ur over 100 on a stocker u should be good still,if one is 100 and the other is 50,u gotta do a topend,but if u dont have a compression tester,get one.well start with that,and fill us in as u go,so we can better diagnose ur situation.btw,welcome to the hq,and there are many people that know whats up,and u definately came to the right place.good luck! oh,as for getting the carbs off the throttle cable,when u get ur tors elim kit,it comes with everything u need to go from throttle box to the carbs so ur stock cable and tors assembly go in garbage.the elim kit has new threaded carb tops,cable.idle screws and tap,some come with bit too. 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Larry's Shee Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 Welcome to BHQ !! Firsy off get yourself a Clymers repair manual , invaluable for working on it. If I'm understand ing you , I don't think you can push it with just pulling the clutch in. I'd have to read the manual to tell you how to adjust the pusher. Some one will chime in. Might want to pull presure plate off and inspect the hub where the missing screw is, hub might be broke. Don't know if riding without all six springs would be a good idea. Clean your carbs one at a time to avoid getting slides and bowls mixed up , they're different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gummie_guy Posted August 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 okay, ill start off by just pulling the clutch apart and coating the plates with some oil to get that figured out. ill look and see if i can find a bolt set online somewhere and get some springs too while im at it. i was told its a pretty much brand new clutch but you cant always trust ppl so ill check everything out and post what i find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 okay, ill start off by just pulling the clutch apart and coating the plates with some oil to get that figured out. ill look and see if i can find a bolt set online somewhere and get some springs too while im at it. i was told its a pretty much brand new clutch but you cant always trust ppl so ill check everything out and post what i find. You need to use a factory bolt on the pressure plate as they have a shoulder on them so that they tighten up and put the correct load on the springs. Get a manual as it will tell you everything you need to know about all the adjustments you need to make, except TORS removal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gummie_guy Posted August 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 (edited) okay, well i looked at everything the other day. just got my internet working again. im thinking i should probably get a new clutch basket soon. i thought it was just missing a bolt but it has a broken bolt hole. im going to try and make stuff work until i can get money for the clutch basket. tors elim kit came today and springs are in i just have to pick them up. gonna try and get everything put together and post back when its done. also, while i got the clutch cover off. is there supposed to be an actual lock nut on the center screw on the clutch. mine has the part that looks like it goes to the ball and is hex shaped with a lip and fits in the pressure plate and the screw part, nothing else. Edited August 4, 2010 by Gummie_guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gummie_guy Posted August 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2010 i think i got the clutch fixed, pushing the quad it will stick a little then free up but i dont have the cover and fluid on. im guessing with fluid in the case it wont stick. plates were lubed before i put them on, just need to know of that center screw has a nut as a locknut or if it just sits there. tors elim is awaiting a drill press to drill the hole, carbs are out and cleaned. they have a 340 jet or main jet whatever the higher one is, everything i have read says like a 320 jet is normal but i dont know what is done to this motor. couldnt find the other jets to tell what they are lol. should be back together by the end of the week. I CANT WAIT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedd1 Posted August 5, 2010 Report Share Posted August 5, 2010 Look at >THIS< and see what goes where... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gummie_guy Posted August 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2010 thanks, i had actually found one of those diagrams last night after i had been posting if there was one or not. looks like i have more things to buy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul M Posted August 5, 2010 Report Share Posted August 5, 2010 if the spring bolt broke off or pulled the threads you will need to pull the inner clutch hub off ! always replace the lock washer when you do , Jeff at fast "a site sponser" has the hubs and they are fairly cheap and yes the pusher adjuster should have a lock nut on it ! make sure when you adjust it to make sure the pointer is lined up with the mark on the case , I set mine up where the pusher hits just before the marks line up ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gummie_guy Posted August 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 alright guys, got this thing back together. had to be resourceful until i can get enough money around to get the right stuff ordered and i wanted to get it running as soon as possibly. i got my tors elim on and idk, the idle screws dont seem to do anything for it. i couldnt quite figure them out. maybe the slides are in wrong? idk i put the carbs back the way they were taken out. the little half moon shape is facing the back of the bike while on it. sync'd by eye and the kit appears to work. i was having a problem with starting, it would only start with starting fluid and throttle open, i think it has since gotten to where it starts by itself but it will bog down and takes some effort to get the revs up and not have it stall. while i had the carbs apart i did notice that the left carb with the choke tube had a little tube from the body of it that would be sitting in gas im guessing, the right one didnt have this and i am unsure if it is supposed to or not. i would think it would have it. riding this thing it stumbles down low and takes a while to get going (longer than i would expect) but when it does its fast as fuck. is this normal for a banshee? im not to sure on what work has actually been done to this quad, its got fmf fattys, boost bottle, supposedly bored .040 over but you cant tell that without opening it up. 340 main jet, i was going to try runnin a smaller jet, is that a good idea? i still have a backfire out the right cylinder as you sit over the motor. i was thinking maybe lean but with a 340 jet and everything hooked up is that really possible? or maybe too much and its just excess fuel thats getting burned up, and causing it to bog? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted August 7, 2010 Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 your stumble could be caused by the pilot jet in your carbs. if you pull a carb off again and take the float bowl off to access the main jet....there will be a small circle hole with a tiny jet way down inside of it. get yourself a small flathead screwdriver and take it out. since your running a fmf fatty it should be jetted up to a 27.5 or a 30......25 is stock and with aftermarket pipes can cause a low speed bog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gummie_guy Posted August 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2010 okay, took the carbs apart and it turns out that it still has a 25 pilot jet. should i buy a jet kit? i found one with several main jet sizes and then just a 30 pilot jet with needle and stuff. or should i just buy some individually? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gummie_guy Posted August 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 Got some 27.5 jets in it now. started up and sounded better once i figured out i forgot the choke crossover tube after putting the jet in. low end picks up a lot better, still seems a little hesitant in the middle. would this mean that i should adjust the needle to allow more fuel in? i wasnt able to run it very long because my clutch cable broke the first time i tried shifting it. air screws are either 1.5 or 2 turns out, cant remember which i did. 340 main jet and 27.5 pilots, i dont know where the needle is. didnt learn about that til after i did the tors elim and its a PITA dealin with those springs to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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