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An inconvient truth; Trinity Racing..


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so how many bhq'ers experienced trinity's bullshit? ive for one though that the people who bashed trinity had some grudge against the company for a lost race or some lemon they've received. well i hate to sound like one of many member's on the forums that are so fed up with trinity products, im contemplating going back to a stock motor and being happy with what i originally had.

 

sticking to the point of this topic i want everyone and anyone who owns a trinity cheetah or is considering purchasing one to understand what kind of shit your going to be stepping in.

i purchased the 485 (73mm bore 4mill) pv cheetah in spring assembled it and from the get go was having problems. i had it dyno at 68 hp after jetting and this is where the red flags started waving that a full blown shit storm was on the horizon. unsatisfied with the hp numbers, i was able to get into contact with windyjohn from the boards and within the hour and half of story exchanging the guy had me figured out and predicted the next three weeks.

 

john left me 3 very important pieces of advice

get rid of the trinity domes

get a set of shearer sb pipes

and never trust anything from trinity.

 

the story behind the domes is as follows. the angle of the trinity dome is matched with the piston crown, however this is not what your want. you want the explosion to be centered on the piston and not blowing out the sides of your cylinders. the faulty domes will not only melt your o rings, it also hold back the entire engine. gears 1-4 are fine but once you hit 5-6 the engine is dogged out, on a bike that suppose to be rated around 90+ hp.

 

one other small thing i was also enlightened about was proper measurement and shape of cylinder walls. from what im told these cylinders are made just as fast as they are sold and quality control is less than effiecent. what more can say when everything some one said to me over the phone came true, and now my barely used cheetah motor has signs of detonation. if you ask me there is no excuse for this, trinity is the toyota of it class selling faulty products. playing with a mans motor is playing with his emotions dont let trinity get you!

 

2010-07-30171121.jpg

2010-07-30171110.jpg

(you can get the proper domes from titan racing)

good luck

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i emailed them about a cheetah kit aswell last week, and he gave me a reply with all prices then a few mins later emailed me back to say, not to take notice of that first email and just to ring him. hahah, first ever conversation was wrong haha.

 

im staying hjr... as everything is awesome with them :D

 

 

so hows ya bike now man ? had it back on the dyno ?

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Every man is his own man and we wanna make up our own minds about stuff ourselves but trust the guys trying to warn you.how they can screw up something like dome angle for so long is pathetic. there are much better choices for topends nowadays and cheaper too than their BS.

At least their proprietary pistons will only cost ya $240 a piece to replace due to their screwup instead of $94 bux a piece like a 100hp cubs pistons. Good job Trinity you still suck. .

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Sorry to hear about your misfortune. That sucks. I have the complete opposite with mine. I basicly have the same thing. I've been runninig it for years. I never had any problems with the cylinder or head. I run 93 octane with 27cc domes. 168-169 psi. I got the old style head though. Maybe that has somthing to do with it? I think I'd try to get a different head or domes before you get rid of it.

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I've got the domes and the pipes but my orings are toast snd gotta wait till Monday to order a set. Not to mention my motor is in ruff shape from the handfull of rides I took. I guess I'm gunna ride it till it dies, there's no point in repairing it now if it still runs. Plus the damage is done so when it finnaly eats shit I guess ill be ordering a 400 dollar set of pistons will have my cylinders re nikisil. O yeah and and repowdercoating them also.... this is why I'm pissed off and I wanna makesure no one else has to spend multi thousands of dollars are scrape alumium

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I agree.. trinity was good.

I guess I got a good one. ( thank god ) I break everythink else. Stators, coils, clutches, ect. But my motor works great.

 

I dont think i'd continue running it though. I would'nt want to see it cost you more money in the long run.

If you need any help tuning it send me a PM. Your not that far from me. Jetting out to be the same. If you want to get the most from it, those pipes need to go.

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I agree with you that there dome design is lacking and there are other options out there. If the motor was deto it could be from these. There are other reasons that could cause it to deto as well. What was the compression, jetting info, and most importantly did you leak down it. Cheetahs are not built by trinity they are built by cp industries here in oklahoma. QC is rarely a issue with them. If there was a bore size issue that would be on millenium not trinity or CP.

 

Keep in mind that trinity has authorized dealers all over the US so if you do not want to deal with them that's what we are here for.

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those pv motors are really stought mofo's it just sucks that it seems NOONE wants to run them or even advertise that they have them available. EXCEPT trinity. might be one reason that trinity's still seems to sell them? not sure how..

 

the o-rings you put back in MUST be viton they should be brown or orange in color ( havent seen the orange ones in a LONG time) IF they are BLACK in color they are low temp std nitrile(? SPELL) o-rings and will burn out very quickly. also with that much junk in there already you may want to pull the pv's out and clean them to make sure they dont hang up. i have also noticed ( and i'll probably get shit for this) that the head dosent just fall right on i was informed many years ago they want a tight fit for better sealing well bullshit. i drilled the head out just a teeny tiny bit the heads on both my motors just fall right down after that and the better o-rings i havent had a burnt o-ring for a very long time the seals in the bigger motor are the same from 5 years ago and i have had the head off a few times. the dont even show signs or burning or even that heat is even getting to them..

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those pics you posted look like the o-ring is blowing apart i cannot tell but are all those black flecks rubber material? it seems the rings are also black in color thats why i said something about the viton's i get my replacement ones from a local hydralic repair and parts company. they usually have them in stock even for any size PD o-ring also.

 

oh also what size carbs are you running?

Edited by camatv
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I guess I got a good one. ( thank god ) I break everythink else. Stators, coils, clutches, ect. But my motor works great.

 

I dont think i'd continue running it though. I would'nt want to see it cost you more money in the long run.

If you need any help tuning it send me a PM. Your not that far from me. Jetting out to be the same. If you want to get the most from it, those pipes need to go.

 

Hate to step on your pipe comment, but I have the CPI pipes on my 472. I also put the bike on the dyno and guess what? The CPI's only made 81HP! And wouldn't rev out for crap over 9,800. Out of frustration We slapped a set of the Shearers on that motor and saw a 13HP increase without even re-jetting for the Shearer pipes! pulled clear through 10,500 rpm's without dropping off hard like the CPI's did. Also the lower rpm curve matched the CPI curve. So You won't loose that "Bottom end" that people claim you get with the CPI's over the SHEARERS. Shearer small bore inframes make 10 more HP from 8,500 to 10,000 rpm. Call Matt at Shearer and he'll verify. You can ask "Mailman" on here too. He's done over 160 dyno pulls on his 492 and is a freak about testing stuff. He's even posted dyno sheets with comparisons of the RDZ,CPI,SHEARER pipes.

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the orings are black, yes they came this way. agian when you buy a so called "kit" you expect that the kit has been R&D and is 100% out of the box. i bought new orings from m&m, using an unburnable oring dosnt solve the problem if u ask me something else is going on here(?domes?). i have 38mm carbs and will have it put back together this weekend.

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I am curious about the deficiencies of the Cheetah heads and how they are remedied? We don't really do squat with those motors because of the bad wrap they get. I just did not understand the explanation from the OP regarding "centered burn" or something. Maybe a pic or two would make that more clear. From the sounds of things, head velocities might be a little high. Possibly a minor adjustment can get them working right. What CR are they setup for? displacement? Fuel?

 

 

Regarding topend pull, it is important to make sure the PVs are opening fully under load. If you are using a dyno, the easy way is just to compare a standard pull to one where you have purposely pinned the PVs WFO. You would obviously have some issues on the bottom end but those top numbers are what you are looking for. I remember doing some custom springs for one locally a couple years ago that was doing something similar.

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