volcrano Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 i see sloryder has yet to comment in this post.. maybe the 31 to 6 blow out has something to do with it. how can u not like a coolhead?well,coolhead itself cuz of the 50 o-rings,but the design being the question.i got a chariot coolhead and its the shit!!easy to install,easy to use,no problems at all in 2 yrs. so far.why would anybody not like them should be the question.bolt on power??why do u have to have a piped shee with bolt ons,etc etc?im sure if you put on a coolhead with 20cc domes on a stocker ud notice a power increase.then more bolt ons the better.if u stroke it,get different domes,keep the bling.stupid topic imho.rock the coolhead.the name says it all.even backwards,head-cool.yes, head is cool,u cant go wrong.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
So Cal Suspension Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 Question: At the top it says 54 members have cast their vote, yet, I added them up, and it only comes to 46. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 now theres 45 lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
So Cal Suspension Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 now theres 45 lol That was one more yes vote that just disappeared... Currently 5, 36, 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 ok.. I put it back.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toolman Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 I just trail ride no racing and have shee's set up both ways (coolhead and shaved). Really no difference except being able to pull the head with out having new gaskets on hand and if you did gerande one you could just change the domes instead of the head. If i had an all out race machine it would have a coolhead. Just my 2 cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 Mine came with a cooling head so i never had the chance to fool with a stock one. It's nice to see someone noticed a drop in tempature from one. I would think that the best way to lower temps would be a better radiator. Then again, as long as you are moving, the stock one should work fine. now, it doesn't nescicarily show that it was the new design head that dropped the temps. fresh, new aluminum will transfer heat better, and so will new coolant. i still believe the dome cooling fins do contribute- just trying to look at it unbiased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigborebanshee Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 now, it doesn't nescicarily show that it was the new design head that dropped the temps. fresh, new aluminum will transfer heat better, and so will new coolant. i still believe the dome cooling fins do contribute- just trying to look at it unbiased. I ran a stock head with 150 psi of compression and the engine would run around 190-200 after a good flogging.After I installed a pro-design head which raised my compression to 170psi(smaller domes) The temperature on the cylinders never went past 180 degrees no matter how bad i beat on her.The temps on the head were even cooler at 150 degrees. The aftermarket heads just have more aluminum,more aluminum will dissipate heat faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLORYDER Posted August 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 Well the poll is firm evidence at the brain wash-ability of the internet. Some of you may argue that the cool head is more convenient as far as changing setups. Which does hold some truth. You just un-bolt the head, change domes, and hook it back up. Simple. -But let's look at that a little closer. A cool head is what, 250 bucks w/ shipping. An extra set of domes, at least 60 right? So that's over 300 bucks for the ability to switch from race fuel to pump. Should sound reasonable to most people. Now here's my Alternative method. You could shave the stock head .035" (squish permitting) and you will have a race fuel setup that should be within a couple hp of the cool head and will cost you no more than 50 bucks. Want to switch back to pump gas? Just order a .010" thicker head gasket. So now you are at 1/4 the price of the cool head setup, and within a couple hp. Or, better yet, you can send your head off to Mull engineering, and have them re-cut the domes and set up your head for race fuel. This will put you at the same performance level as the cool head, and I believe the cost is under 100 bucks. Now I'm not exactly sure what Brandon at Mull would recommend, but i believe the head gasket swap would work for this setup as well. Just ask Brandon ow much thicker you should go to drop the comp enough for pump gas. Still, you're at less than half the price of a cool head set up for two fuels. Now, some of you may argue that you will only be limited to two setups, and you are right, but let's be honest, the average guy iout there will not ever need more than this. Seriously. And about the extra cooling, I have heard several people say that they did NOT notice a difference in temps going from stock to cool head. This thread is the first place I have heard someone with a quantified reduction in coolant temperature from the use of a cool head. Soooo, I guess if you can get a used cool head and extra set of domes for $150 or so, it would be a good buy, but you would ruin the sleeper look; however if "bling" is what you're into, maybe this isn't a bad thing. I'd rather look slo tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted August 2, 2010 Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 The stock head is still limited on dome configurations.. You can only do so much to a stock head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted August 2, 2010 Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 now, it doesn't nescicarily show that it was the new design head that dropped the temps. fresh, new aluminum will transfer heat better, and so will new coolant. i still believe the dome cooling fins do contribute- just trying to look at it unbiased. I ran a stock head with 150 psi of compression and the engine would run around 190-200 after a good flogging.After I installed a pro-design head which raised my compression to 170psi(smaller domes) The temperature on the cylinders never went past 180 degrees no matter how bad i beat on her.The temps on the head were even cooler at 150 degrees. The aftermarket heads just have more aluminum,more aluminum will dissipate heat faster. Well the poll is firm evidence that the brain wash-ability of the internet still cannot penatrate my foil helmet. Some of you may argue that the cool head is more convenient as far as changing setups. Which does hold some truth. You just un-bolt the head, change domes, and hook it back up. Simple. -But let's look at that a little closer. A cool head is what, 250 bucks w/ shipping. An extra set of domes, at least 60 right? So that's over 300 bucks for the ability to switch from race fuel to pump. Should sound reasonable to most people. Now here's my Alternative method. You could shave the stock head .035" (squish permitting) and you will have a race fuel setup that should be within a couple hp of the cool head and will cost you no more than 50 bucks. Want to switch back to pump gas? Just order a .010" thicker head gasket. So now you are at 1/4 the price of the cool head setup, and within a couple hp. Or, better yet, you can send your head off to Mull engineering, and have them re-cut the domes and set up your head for race fuel. This will put you at the same performance level as the cool head, and I believe the cost is under 100 bucks. Now I'm not exactly sure what Brandon at Mull would recommend, but i believe the head gasket swap would work for this setup as well. Just ask Brandon ow much thicker you should go to drop the comp enough for pump gas. Still, you're at less than half the price of a cool head set up for two fuels. Now, some of you may argue that you will only be limited to two setups, and you are right, but let's be honest, the average guy iout there will not ever need more than this. Seriously. And about the extra cooling, I have heard several people say that they did NOT notice a difference in temps going from stock to cool head. This thread is the first place I have heard someone with a quantified reduction in coolant temperature from the use of a cool head. Soooo, I guess if you can get a used cool head and extra set of domes for $150 or so, it would be a good buy, but you would ruin the sleeper look; however if "bling" is what you're into, maybe this isn't a bad thing. I'd rather look slo tho. well, your posts do just fine making you look "slo"...no matter how much you try to use big words..... personally, i would not consider fucking with the squish clearance like that to switch between race, and pump. all that is really doing is making you need more octane to prevent detonation on a tight squish, or less efficient burn with a loose squish. either way, you are robbing power off one setup. i'm sure mull wouldn't suggest doing that. cut the head for what you want and set the squish properly.....period. i still stand behind the fact that pretty much anyone deciding to port only shaves the stock head for lack of funds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilarious Posted August 2, 2010 Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 i shaved my head back in 08'. i wished i had done it sooner. i have saved a lot of money not buying shampoo and no more helmet hair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLORYDER Posted August 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 (edited) well, your posts do just fine making you look "slo"...no matter how much you try to use big words..... personally, i would not consider fucking with the squish clearance like that to switch between race, and pump. all that is really doing is making you need more octane to prevent detonation on a tight squish, or less efficient burn with a loose squish. either way, you are robbing power off one setup. i'm sure mull wouldn't suggest doing that. cut the head for what you want and set the squish properly.....period. i still stand behind the fact that pretty much anyone deciding to port only shaves the stock head for lack of funds. So you are telling me that you would get more power out of a cool head than out of a stock milled head plus porting? 250 shipped you can have a dam good port job. 50 dollars you can have your head milled.15 bucks for a thicker head gasket. Port work here http://www.rbracingmotors.com/Porting/Porting.htm Edited August 2, 2010 by SLORYDER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted August 2, 2010 Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 So you are telling me that you would get more power out of a cool head than out of a stock milled head plus porting? 250 shipped you can have a dam good port job. 50 dollars you can have your head milled.port work here http://www.rbracingmotors.com/Porting/Porting.htm no, i'm not saying that. i'm saying you can get more power out of a coolhead, period. there you go again on severely biased comparisons. think about it....now think about it again......now smack yourself upside the head, and get yo mind right. unbiased- the coolhead is for the guy who is more seroius about building. porting is also for the guy more serious about building. porting gets you more power, so is the more important mod of the 2 and done first. look around- pretty much most ported bikes either have, or are waiting for a coolhead. most bikes without a coolhead are stock cyl, with little more than pipes. just keeping with the origional criteria, not switching things up like someone..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted August 2, 2010 Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 do you have a reading problem??? not once did AK say a ported shee with a stock head will make less power than a stock port with cool head. he said that people will run a stock head on a ported bike because they dont have the funds for a cool head. learn to fucking read moron. i know that is the only reason i have my stock head is because i dont have the money for a cool head. SLORYDER : (Today, 09:53 AM) I work too much to fool with that think savage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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