The ultimate showdown cool head vs shaved stock head

[SLORYDER]

Slo..

Do me a favor.

Let's find out credibility.

 

How many motors have you built.

How many motors have you ported.

How many bikes have you tuned, either at the dunes, the trails, your garage, etc.

How many bikes have you shaved the head on? How many have you used cool heads?

How many different dome and or stock shaved head configurations have you personally done, tested and run on your own equipment?

Going for a ride or riding your buddies bike does not count.

 

What is your personal background and personal experience with different brands of cool heads, different dome configurations for different bore motors, different stroke motors, different ported motors.

 

When you can answer all of that with great convincing, we will take you more seriously.

Until then, IMO...you're pissing in the wind.

 

Daj,

I generally have a lot of respect for what you say, but it seems like you might be biased on this one.

 

Let me ask you this...Have you ever heard of people having problems milling their head .030"?

Have you ever heard of people having problems milling their head .020"?

Although I don't have much direct experience in these matters, I have done a LOT of research and a LOT of searching on not only this site but also other great two stroke websites like Macdizzy.com and have come up with enough evidence to put 2 and 2 together.

You speak of blaster domes and all these different setups that most people don't have.

Hell anyone who doesn't know what they are doing has the same chance of buying the wrong domes and destroying their engine as the guy who arbitrarily cuts .030" off his head without measuring the squish.

 

Again, I am talking about the average joe with a stockish engine that wants a good power bump.

Mill the stock head .030" an buy a .020" head gasket for if you need to run pump gas. This is a cheap alternative to a cool head.

Edited August 4, 2010 by SLORYDER

[dajogejr]

Research is the right place to start.

By dodging my direct questions and not answering them tells me you don't have the practical experience.

That's all I needed to know...

 

Carry on.

[So Cal Suspension]

Research is the right place to start.

By dodging my direct questions and not answering them tells me you don't have the practical experience.

That's all I needed to know...

 

Carry on.

Told you...

[prssantana]

Daj,

I generally have a lot of respect for what you say, but it seems like you might be biased on this one.

 

I dont understand this. You asked the entire hq for their opinion and when someone disagrees they're biased? Plus he obviously agrees to an certain extent but prefers the coolhead. Btw unless you are reusing head gaskets 2 sets of gaskets are good for 2 set ups and when you change to another set up you need to buy more gaskets. I dont know if other people reuse gaskets but i sure as hell wont.

[Hilarious]

Daj,

I generally have a lot of respect for what you say, but it seems like you might be biased on this one.

 

I dont understand this. You asked the entire hq for their opinion and when someone disagrees they're biased? Plus he obviously agrees to an certain extent but prefers the coolhead. Btw unless you are reusing head gaskets 2 sets of gaskets are good for 2 set ups and when you change to another set up you need to buy more gaskets. I dont know if other people reuse gaskets but i sure as hell wont.

I dont use gaskets more than once either.

I much prefer using a noss head on my bikes as opposed to a modified stocker.

I also think any "average joe" should consider breaking their bike down a bit further to have the crank welded as more compression will definately put more stress on the crank. Separation can occur and its not pretty when it happens. Lol

[SLORYDER]

All I'm saying is that if I had $250, i would rather spend it on milling the stock head and porting. You'd get way more power by going this route than buying a cool head.

 

I'd say at least half of banshees in the US are not ported. I'd say at least half of those have a cool head. That's thousands and thousands of people who are missing out on a lot of hp because they bought a cool head instead of just milling and porting.

Not everyone wants to go all out.

 

that's all I'm saying.

I'm sure plenty of non-banshee hq'ers would agree with me. People who live in the real world.

 

 

 

Ok and Daj, please teell me what question it is that I am avoiding.

I have a lot of mechanical experience.

I have rebuilt v-twins, including porting and polishing, combustion chamber work including unshrouding the valves by hand (by the way that was the fastest kfx730 in my area). I have gone through 2 years of trade school for automotives, as well as did several blaster rebuilds, LT80's, and a couple of banshees.

 

I have a good mechanical sense when it comes to stuff like this, and I know how to sort through information and put 2 and 2 together.

 

The bottom line is .030" and .020" is a safe amount to mill from the stock head if the engine is otherwise stock or even ported. I would also recommend modding the timing plate when milling.

This will save you a lot of coin which you can save for a port job if you are on a budget.

 

 

John Doe: Hello, I am new to this forum. Right now I have pipes and filters, and would like to know what is the best way to spend my money for more power.

 

 

BHQ:

Welcome. I'd recommend a cool head, timing plate and porting from one of our site sponsors.

 

John:

Awesome guys thanks!!!

 

Calls up Jeff at FAST $230 cool head $20 timing plate $300 dune porting

 

$550dollars and a lot of hard work later this guy has a good running 65 horsepower engine.

 

My way milled head $50 mod timing plate FREE RB racing hot dune port $250

 

$300 later a good running 65 hp engine.

 

Now you can take that extra $250 dollars and get a nice set of paddles, or a swingarm ect.

 

This is the point I am trying to get acros.

[okbeast]

I'd get a hooker and some blow

[prssantana]

Way to go sloryder you've have talked everyone on your side into buying a cool head. Do me a favor and go punch yourself in the balls.

[SAVAGE420]

[AKheathen]

No, I know it is approximately .068". You should measure before you cut.

 

It is.

 

 

I have heard of more than one person doing it and no problems after years of riding.

 

Milling the stock head .020" is not dangerous unless your head is already milled.

 

 

That is why I would not recommending cutting unless you measure first. There are too many variables

 

Again, I can't speak for every one out there.

But I believe my advice would be best for the majority of those out there.

 

Before you consider buying a cool head, you should ask yourself "Do I plan on changing my steup more than three or four times"

If the answer is yes, then maybe you should consider a cool head.

If the answer is no, and you want the best bang for your buck, Get a set of pipes, mill your stock head, mod your timing plate, and send your jugs to get ported.

You should be able to afford a much better port job now that you've saved money on the cool head.

 

 

Do you still disagree with me?

damn, i fucked up. i really shouldn't have bought a coolhead to change my setup 4 times.........ty for showing me the way..........SHUT THE FUCK UP. changing your compression 4 times is exactly enough cause to go strait to a coolhead and not fuck aroud with the stockker. stock is when you plan on setting it up once.

 

All I'm saying is that if I had $250, i would rather spend it on milling the stock head and porting. You'd get way more power by going this route than buying a cool head.

 

I'd say at least half of banshees in the US are not ported. I'd say at least half of those have a cool head. That's thousands and thousands of people who are missing out on a lot of hp because they bought a cool head instead of just milling and porting.

Not everyone wants to go all out.

 

that's all I'm saying.

I'm sure plenty of non-banshee hq'ers would agree with me. People who live in the real world.

 

 

 

Ok and Daj, please teell me what question it is that I am avoiding.

I have a lot of mechanical experience.

I have rebuilt v-twins, including porting and polishing, combustion chamber work including unshrouding the valves by hand (by the way that was the fastest kfx730 in my area). I have gone through 2 years of trade school for automotives, as well as did several blaster rebuilds, LT80's, and a couple of banshees.

 

I have a good mechanical sense when it comes to stuff like this, and I know how to sort through information and put 2 and 2 together.

 

The bottom line is .030" and .020" is a safe amount to mill from the stock head if the engine is otherwise stock or even ported. I would also recommend modding the timing plate when milling.

This will save you a lot of coin which you can save for a port job if you are on a budget.

 

 

John Doe: Hello, I am new to this forum. Right now I have pipes and filters, and would like to know what is the best way to spend my money for more power.

 

 

BHQ:

Welcome. I'd recommend a cool head, timing plate and porting from one of our site sponsors.

 

John:

Awesome guys thanks!!!

 

Calls up Jeff at FAST $230 cool head $20 timing plate $300 dune porting

 

$550dollars and a lot of hard work later this guy has a good running 65 horsepower engine.

 

My way milled head $50 mod timing plate FREE RB racing hot dune port $250

 

$300 later a good running 65 hp engine.

 

Now you can take that extra $250 dollars and get a nice set of paddles, or a swingarm ect.

 

This is the point I am trying to get acros.

damn, gettin finger cramps and have to cpy-paste between the 2 threads?

[Snopczynski]

All I'm saying is that if I had $250, i would rather spend it on milling the stock head and porting. You'd get way more power by going this route than buying a cool head.

 

I'd say at least half of banshees in the US are not ported. I'd say at least half of those have a cool head. That's thousands and thousands of people who are missing out on a lot of hp because they bought a cool head instead of just milling and porting.

Not everyone wants to go all out.

 

that's all I'm saying.

I'm sure plenty of non-banshee hq'ers would agree with me. People who live in the real world.

 

 

 

Ok and Daj, please teell me what question it is that I am avoiding.

I have a lot of mechanical experience.

I have rebuilt v-twins, including porting and polishing, combustion chamber work including unshrouding the valves by hand (by the way that was the fastest kfx730 in my area). I have gone through 2 years of trade school for automotives, as well as did several blaster rebuilds, LT80's, and a couple of banshees.

 

I have a good mechanical sense when it comes to stuff like this, and I know how to sort through information and put 2 and 2 together.

 

The bottom line is .030" and .020" is a safe amount to mill from the stock head if the engine is otherwise stock or even ported. I would also recommend modding the timing plate when milling.

This will save you a lot of coin which you can save for a port job if you are on a budget.

 

 

John Doe: Hello, I am new to this forum. Right now I have pipes and filters, and would like to know what is the best way to spend my money for more power.

 

 

BHQ:

Welcome. I'd recommend a cool head, timing plate and porting from one of our site sponsors.

 

John:

Awesome guys thanks!!!

 

Calls up Jeff at FAST $230 cool head $20 timing plate $300 dune porting

 

$550dollars and a lot of hard work later this guy has a good running 65 horsepower engine.

 

My way milled head $50 mod timing plate FREE RB racing hot dune port $250

 

$300 later a good running 65 hp engine.

 

Now you can take that extra $250 dollars and get a nice set of paddles, or a swingarm ect.

 

This is the point I am trying to get acros.

You need to do more listening, more reading, more hands on work, and then less talking as well as less typing on this forum. You have yourself worked into a place where nobody here gives a fuck what you think or say because of how you project yourself. You need to humble yourself and actually know what your talking about before you do anything else on here. You are not a good source for answers, innovation, common sense, or knowledge. The only thing your contributing to this forum is a good laugh. Quit fucking up Loco's forum.

Edited August 4, 2010 by Snopczynski

[Pasi S.]

I have a milled stock head and now I am just a seconds away from ordering my coolhead!

Thanks SLO, lot of good info here!

 

-Pasi S.

[AKheathen]

Milling your head .030" is not a bad idea by any stretch.

Milling your head .030" and then running a head gasket that is .010" thicker is not a bad idea either. Everything will be exactly the same as if you'd only milled it .020", which again isn't a bad idea.

 

Brandon stated that in HIS head that has been worked to .040" squish you would have to run a .060" head gasket to safely run pump, giving you .090" or so squish. This is something completely different than what I'm talking about. I'm talking about moving your squish from .040" to .050", wich would put you at the high end of pump gas and the low end of blend.No one said anything about stacking gaskets. I'm talking running a .010" gasket or a .020" gasket, if stock is .010" which I believe is correct.

um, well, this is the point of the domes. it's .060 to get to the chamber size from efficient pump, to efficient blend, as you put it. which can be done by swapping dome size. to get to both chamber sizes on the stock head, pump would have fucked up .090" squish, robbing power. now just moving between safepump and needing higher oct by an increment of .010", you would have an "ok" squish, but not nearly enough compresion to be efficient, which i know for a fact you can feel in the ass-dyno. both cheeks. so you may be trying to make this little point, but really , it doesn't help your arguement one bit..

[SLORYDER]

um, well, this is the point of the domes. it's .060 to get to the chamber size from efficient pump, to efficient blend, as you put it. which can be done by swapping dome size. to get to both chamber sizes on the stock head, pump would have fucked up .090" squish, robbing power. now just moving between safepump and needing higher oct by an increment of .010", you would have an "ok" squish, but not nearly enough compresion to be efficient, which i know for a fact you can feel in the ass-dyno. both cheeks. so you may be trying to make this little point, but really , it doesn't help your arguement one bit..

 

This discussion isn't about mulls job anymore.

 

Shut up asshole

[AKheathen]

This discussion isn't about mulls job anymore.

 

Shut up asshole

hahahahaha, that the best you got? what happened to the random streams of vulgarity in the shout? wtf is the discussion about now, anyways? i completely forgot now. too buisy laughing my ass off all morning. i swear- theae threads are the best b-day present yet. thanks accidental ruhtard