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Trail Tech Reads 225 - 235 Degrees!


Driggs

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Just completed my rebuild, woods port plus the usual mods...t5's, pods, 330 mains, milled head, VF3's...and also installed a trail tech. After your everyday riding in hot ass Florida over the weekend, it's showing I'm hitting 225 - 235 degrees on the fluid temp. From what I've seen, 210ish is meltdown but I'm not overheating I don’t think. I'm running Engine Ice and a Fluidyne rad and that huge ass impeller from Chariot so that temp surprises me. I'm not boiling over out my overflow so am I ok? It runs amazing even at those temps.

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It has always been my thought that if it boils over it is to late, the engine has already been cooked. I don't think anybody realizes or knows how hot it has to get before it boils over. You have to figure in the radiator caps psi. I think (not for sure) for 1 psi of pressure it raises the boiling temp 1 deg. Water boils at 212 deg. So with a 16 psi radiator cap it won't boil over until 228 deg. That is with water alone. Coolant also raises the boiling point. I think most coolant mfgs rate the coolants boiling point with a 12 psi cap instead of just 0 psi. That way it looks good when they say protects up to 280 deg plus.

 

230 is about as far as I would want to go. I have hit 240 before. I was running with the wind so there wasn't much air flow over my Prodesign radiator. I just turned around and ran into the wind.

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It has always been my thought that if it boils over it is to late, the enfine has already been coocked. I don't think anybody realizes or knows how hot it has to get before it boils over. You have to figure in the radiator caps psi. I think (not for sure) for 1 psi of pressure it raises the boiling temp 1 deg. Water boils at 212 deg. So with a 16 psi radiator cap it won't boil over until 228 deg. That is with water alone. Coolant also raises the boiling point. I think most coolant mfgs rate the coolants boiling point with a 12 psi cap instead of just 0 psi. That way it looks good when they say protects up to 280 deg plus.

 

230 is about as far as I would want to go. I have hit 240 before. I was running with the wind so there wasn't much air flow over my Prodesign radiator. I just turned around and ran into the wind.

I am not 100% sure but I believe each pound of pressure raises the boiling point 3 degrees. If it is shut down as soon as it boils and it only happens once very little engine damages occurs. If it is running at 220 or more all of the time, your rings will start losing their tension and compression will drop.

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Just completed my rebuild, woods port plus the usual mods...t5's, pods, 330 mains, milled head, VF3's...and also installed a trail tech. After your everyday riding in hot ass Florida over the weekend, it's showing I'm hitting 225 - 235 degrees on the fluid temp. From what I've seen, 210ish is meltdown but I'm not overheating I don’t think. I'm running Engine Ice and a Fluidyne rad and that huge ass impeller from Chariot so that temp surprises me. I'm not boiling over out my overflow so am I ok? It runs amazing even at those temps.

 

 

 

I think in your situation, it would be advisable to test the accuracy of your gauge with a pot of boiling water. We have seen sensors read as much as 20% off. Your temps are certainly high enough to pay attention. Your mods should be just fine without extra cooling.

 

Also, if your rad cap is failing, this can cause localized vaporization (steam) around the exhaust port area and that vapor raises the read temp of the sensor. Maintaining pressure in the system is very important for many reason.

 

EDIT- To properly analyze a cooling system, you would need to get inlet temps as well from the other side (outlet) of the radiator. By comparing the deltaT of those two, you can determine if you have a radiator issue or a pump/pressure/cap issue.

 

Brandon

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